car wonders.....help
#11
Check lower control arm bushings, front and back. I'm willing to bet one side has bushings that are significantly more deteriorated than the other, so under negative G's the car toes out OR picks up a bunch of camber and toes in on one side (or both if its royally garbooned)
You might also check your upper control arm bushings since a caster change under dynamic load would make the car pull as well, BUT this one would have to be pretty pronounced.
You might also check your upper control arm bushings since a caster change under dynamic load would make the car pull as well, BUT this one would have to be pretty pronounced.
#12
ZDAN - happened with old tires and i just put on brand new ones... still happens.
ANOREXICPOODLE- that makes sense. i read elsewhere that bushes could be an issue. I just Purchased a SPOON bush kit. Replacing every bush - upper and lower control arms front and rear. i'll also buy new diff mounts and replace them too. Either spoon or Megan racing diff mounts...
if this dosnt work i guess ill have to keep looking....
ANOREXICPOODLE- that makes sense. i read elsewhere that bushes could be an issue. I just Purchased a SPOON bush kit. Replacing every bush - upper and lower control arms front and rear. i'll also buy new diff mounts and replace them too. Either spoon or Megan racing diff mounts...
if this dosnt work i guess ill have to keep looking....
#16
I would assume brake caliper is seized. Try bleeding the brake lines. Brake rotors could be out of balance or warped.
40Psi on tire pressure is too high. Normally, it should be about 32psi'ish.
"Listing off random things that could cause it...."
wheel being bent.
Differential damage,
Rear axle internal(CV joint) damange because of being too low.
Tie rod or steering rack,
Bent control arm(rear toe link bushing),
Front Lower control arm rear compliance bushing(typically cracks on the top side on inside the subframe side. Hard to see it)
Motor mount(causes the drive shaft to be not centric to the car)
Tire brand/manufacturer error(not centric. Probably oblong)
Subframe bolts being loose/subframe damage,
Blown strut assembly,
Front upper control arm mounting location tearing apart,
40Psi on tire pressure is too high. Normally, it should be about 32psi'ish.
"Listing off random things that could cause it...."
wheel being bent.
Differential damage,
Rear axle internal(CV joint) damange because of being too low.
Tie rod or steering rack,
Bent control arm(rear toe link bushing),
Front Lower control arm rear compliance bushing(typically cracks on the top side on inside the subframe side. Hard to see it)
Motor mount(causes the drive shaft to be not centric to the car)
Tire brand/manufacturer error(not centric. Probably oblong)
Subframe bolts being loose/subframe damage,
Blown strut assembly,
Front upper control arm mounting location tearing apart,
#17
Ok thats off its head... JUND, thanks for the info... well im waiting for all new bushes and ill take it to my mechanic with that list and get him to start working.... thats one scary list.
hopefully i find something!
thanks heaps!!!
hopefully i find something!
thanks heaps!!!
#19
You haven't mentioned if you've swapped the tires left and right yet. Do it. It'd bet a paycheck that's it (your paycheck, not mine). We've heard this problem many, many times over the years. The S is extremely sensitive to any differences between tires. BTW, do you have stock wheels? If not, are they the same offset? Are you using hub centering rings?
#20
swapped tyres, still same issue... No, they are the standard rims!!!
have now purchased new spoon bushes all round, diff, engine, tranny mounts... when all this goes in we'll see.
will let you know.
cheers
have now purchased new spoon bushes all round, diff, engine, tranny mounts... when all this goes in we'll see.
will let you know.
cheers
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