anyone use godspeed "gspd" rear camber arms?
07-10-2016, 01:25 PM
#11
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The kit you linked above is for a set of adjustable toe links, not camber adjusters. While the toe links are adjusted when changing camber settings, they are not the primary means of adjusting camber. If you're lowered and shooting for minimum rear camber, adjustable length toe arms may be needed to bring your toe settings back into the normal range, but there are many variables that would affect this relationship - desired toe, ride height, desired camber, etc...
The SPC camber joints work in a different manner. The SPC camber joint replaces the OE upper control arm ball joint and allows for leaning the rear hub in or out, depending on which way you orient the SPC hardware when you install them.
The typical use for adjustable toe links is to tune or eliminate "bump steer", or dynamic toe. This is done by changing the mounting location of the outer spherical joint with respect to the hub assembly. Every adjustable toe arm kit should come with a set of spacers (of various thicknesses) to allow for tuning of the vertical location of the outer spherical joints. That said, adjustable toe arm kits (or anti-bump steer kits) are not just something you can install without properly tuning the shim stack arrangement and taking toe measurements as a function of suspension compression.
Hopefully that clarifies the intended use of the two kits mentioned in this thread.
The SPC camber joints work in a different manner. The SPC camber joint replaces the OE upper control arm ball joint and allows for leaning the rear hub in or out, depending on which way you orient the SPC hardware when you install them.
The typical use for adjustable toe links is to tune or eliminate "bump steer", or dynamic toe. This is done by changing the mounting location of the outer spherical joint with respect to the hub assembly. Every adjustable toe arm kit should come with a set of spacers (of various thicknesses) to allow for tuning of the vertical location of the outer spherical joints. That said, adjustable toe arm kits (or anti-bump steer kits) are not just something you can install without properly tuning the shim stack arrangement and taking toe measurements as a function of suspension compression.
Hopefully that clarifies the intended use of the two kits mentioned in this thread.
07-11-2016, 03:37 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by nmrado' timestamp='1320433228' post='21129618
The kit you linked above is for a set of adjustable toe links, not camber adjusters. While the toe links are adjusted when changing camber settings, they are not the primary means of adjusting camber. If you're lowered and shooting for minimum rear camber, adjustable length toe arms may be needed to bring your toe settings back into the normal range, but there are many variables that would affect this relationship - desired toe, ride height, desired camber, etc...
The SPC camber joints work in a different manner. The SPC camber joint replaces the OE upper control arm ball joint and allows for leaning the rear hub in or out, depending on which way you orient the SPC hardware when you install them.
The typical use for adjustable toe links is to tune or eliminate "bump steer", or dynamic toe. This is done by changing the mounting location of the outer spherical joint with respect to the hub assembly. Every adjustable toe arm kit should come with a set of spacers (of various thicknesses) to allow for tuning of the vertical location of the outer spherical joints. That said, adjustable toe arm kits (or anti-bump steer kits) are not just something you can install without properly tuning the shim stack arrangement and taking toe measurements as a function of suspension compression.
Hopefully that clarifies the intended use of the two kits mentioned in this thread.
The SPC camber joints work in a different manner. The SPC camber joint replaces the OE upper control arm ball joint and allows for leaning the rear hub in or out, depending on which way you orient the SPC hardware when you install them.
The typical use for adjustable toe links is to tune or eliminate "bump steer", or dynamic toe. This is done by changing the mounting location of the outer spherical joint with respect to the hub assembly. Every adjustable toe arm kit should come with a set of spacers (of various thicknesses) to allow for tuning of the vertical location of the outer spherical joints. That said, adjustable toe arm kits (or anti-bump steer kits) are not just something you can install without properly tuning the shim stack arrangement and taking toe measurements as a function of suspension compression.
Hopefully that clarifies the intended use of the two kits mentioned in this thread.
2nd question: You realize that camber doesn't eat tires...toe does.
If you're unfamiliar with suspension geometry terms this is a good read: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...e.jsp?techid=4
Simple answer: For camber get SPC ball joints...NOT these. These are for toe adjustment. I have the megans and they are rusted slap up. I'd say stick with stock.
07-11-2016, 04:54 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by zacks2k' timestamp='1468185940' post='24013244
[quote name='nmrado' timestamp='1320433228' post='21129618']
The kit you linked above is for a set of adjustable toe links, not camber adjusters. While the toe links are adjusted when changing camber settings, they are not the primary means of adjusting camber. If you're lowered and shooting for minimum rear camber, adjustable length toe arms may be needed to bring your toe settings back into the normal range, but there are many variables that would affect this relationship - desired toe, ride height, desired camber, etc...
The SPC camber joints work in a different manner. The SPC camber joint replaces the OE upper control arm ball joint and allows for leaning the rear hub in or out, depending on which way you orient the SPC hardware when you install them.
The typical use for adjustable toe links is to tune or eliminate "bump steer", or dynamic toe. This is done by changing the mounting location of the outer spherical joint with respect to the hub assembly. Every adjustable toe arm kit should come with a set of spacers (of various thicknesses) to allow for tuning of the vertical location of the outer spherical joints. That said, adjustable toe arm kits (or anti-bump steer kits) are not just something you can install without properly tuning the shim stack arrangement and taking toe measurements as a function of suspension compression.
Hopefully that clarifies the intended use of the two kits mentioned in this thread.
The kit you linked above is for a set of adjustable toe links, not camber adjusters. While the toe links are adjusted when changing camber settings, they are not the primary means of adjusting camber. If you're lowered and shooting for minimum rear camber, adjustable length toe arms may be needed to bring your toe settings back into the normal range, but there are many variables that would affect this relationship - desired toe, ride height, desired camber, etc...
The SPC camber joints work in a different manner. The SPC camber joint replaces the OE upper control arm ball joint and allows for leaning the rear hub in or out, depending on which way you orient the SPC hardware when you install them.
The typical use for adjustable toe links is to tune or eliminate "bump steer", or dynamic toe. This is done by changing the mounting location of the outer spherical joint with respect to the hub assembly. Every adjustable toe arm kit should come with a set of spacers (of various thicknesses) to allow for tuning of the vertical location of the outer spherical joints. That said, adjustable toe arm kits (or anti-bump steer kits) are not just something you can install without properly tuning the shim stack arrangement and taking toe measurements as a function of suspension compression.
Hopefully that clarifies the intended use of the two kits mentioned in this thread.
2nd question: You realize that camber doesn't eat tires...toe does.
If you're unfamiliar with suspension geometry terms this is a good read: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...e.jsp?techid=4
Simple answer: For camber get SPC ball joints...NOT these. These are for toe adjustment. I have the megans and they are rusted slap up. I'd say stick with stock.
[/quote]
Thank you tons. Yes I did my own and I'm raised up pretty far on coils but still like an inch drop I'd say. Max I could get was -2.4 in rear, front is perfect at -1.0 I'd like rear at about -1.8 I guess. This was done keeping toe at 0.0 as well. My goal is the U.K. spec alignment on about a 2 inch drop. Now another question: should I get upper or lower? Pros, cons? Any help is good help, I build engines, haven't learned suspension at all honestly when it comes to this stuff. Throwing parts on and alignment I can do but I don't quite understand how they all work
07-12-2016, 06:39 AM
#14
Registered User
Get upper. Easier access and more adjustability.
07-14-2016, 06:58 AM
#15
The guy with the all motor lap record around streets of willow used these.
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