Alignment help
#1
Alignment help
Today I took the car for an alignment and got these measurements...they said rear couldn't be aligned and current correct the toe is the shop wrong or what could I do to fix my rear ...for reference I'm on megan coilovers with 18x9 square and dropped about a finger any input is appreciated
[attachment=38711:ImageUploadedByTapatalk1368044960 .211157.jpg]
[attachment=38711:ImageUploadedByTapatalk1368044960 .211157.jpg]
#3
The lower you go, it naturally adds negative camber. There is a stock adjustment range, but if you go too low then the stock adjustment can't compensate for all the negative camber you added. You can get aftermarket camber arms that have a wider range of adjustment. I'm running -2.5 rear by choice, it's not that bad and your toe looks good. I'd say just dial in more negative camber front (-1.5 ish) and call it good.
FYI, everything else looks good so I assume they simply ran out of adjustment, not that they "couldn't" do it.
FYI, everything else looks good so I assume they simply ran out of adjustment, not that they "couldn't" do it.
#4
Toe in looks pretty high...not that it's "bad"...but you'll be fighting the rear wheels with your steering wheel if you take sharp turns and/or drive the car at the track/autocross at all.
#5
Yeah I wasn't too concerned with the Camber but I was more concerned with the toe as I had many mixed answer saying its was ok or that it was too much and was gonna wear my tires faster
#6
I do alignments every day at work. The specs you have posted are not too bad. The front is as good as its gonna get and the rear looks half decent. Camber looks appropriate for your drop/wheels but the toe can definitely be adjusted to be where it should. 0.04 of a degree is like a quarter turn of a wrench on the adjuster. Either he ran out of adjustment (which is very hard to believe) or he got lazy/ran out of time.
Honestly, the way it is now will not wear your tires out fast. Anything 0.18 and up on the rear will SLOWLY make the tires chopped. Perhaps from your drop you need a longer rear tie rod adjuster or a bump steer kit.
Thats one thing i learned from previous lowered cars. When you lower the car you change the center point of the steering rack. Now when you bounce down and up over a dip in the road, your front wheels will point in and then out, then back to normal.
Honestly, the way it is now will not wear your tires out fast. Anything 0.18 and up on the rear will SLOWLY make the tires chopped. Perhaps from your drop you need a longer rear tie rod adjuster or a bump steer kit.
Thats one thing i learned from previous lowered cars. When you lower the car you change the center point of the steering rack. Now when you bounce down and up over a dip in the road, your front wheels will point in and then out, then back to normal.
#7
I got PSS on mine there is about 1 1/2 finger gap in the front and about 1 3/4 finger gap in the rear.
So it is lowered a little. What would be my recommended alignment should be?
I currently have 245 40 17 all around.
I was thinking putting about
-2.5 camber
0 toe
and -2.5 camber and 0.2 toe
Will this be good for mostly street setup?
So it is lowered a little. What would be my recommended alignment should be?
I currently have 245 40 17 all around.
I was thinking putting about
-2.5 camber
0 toe
and -2.5 camber and 0.2 toe
Will this be good for mostly street setup?
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