Bake wheels to remove paint
#1
Bake wheels to remove paint
I've got a set of AP2V1s that are rattle canned black. I want to restore them to factory finish if possible. I've tried using aircraft remover on another set of wheels but it was such a hassle just getting one wheel 50% done. Is it safe to take them to a powder coater and have him bake off the paint?
#2
The powder coater will probably recommend stripping the paint down to the alloy by having them media blasted, hopefully not with sand but something less abrasive as sand can be too harsh on the alloy and compromise their structural integrity.
#3
Aircraft paint remover is formulated for aluminum alloys and is still your best bet for DIY. There are wheel refinishing shops is (probably) every medium sized and bigger city that specialize in this and will guarantee their work.
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
#4
What you want is Turco 5351 stripper. Contact Henkel and ask for a distributor in your area. Edit: try here http://www.na.henkel-adhesives.com/adhesives/distributor-locator-1691.htm?param1=type%3Ddistributor|distance%3D16|p ostcode%3D|distributorType%3D627690271|state%3D|re gion%3D|searchAction%3Dtrue|page%3D0|
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showth...-from-Aluminum
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showth...-from-Aluminum
#6
May want to take a look at the heating process with powder coating. I have seen a number of posts (not all on this forum) that powder coating can lead to wheel damage and failure (cracks) especially if the car is tracked.
Because of this, I refinished my wheels myself. Previous owner had painted the spokes and I also wanted to return to factory silver. I used a variety of sandpaper grades and used good old Duplicolor for point. I wound up doing it twice until I was satisfied. It has been two years now and it is going great. The color was a good match and I taped off the wheel at the groove just inside the wheel so I did not have to do the entire thing.
Good luck and post pictures.
Because of this, I refinished my wheels myself. Previous owner had painted the spokes and I also wanted to return to factory silver. I used a variety of sandpaper grades and used good old Duplicolor for point. I wound up doing it twice until I was satisfied. It has been two years now and it is going great. The color was a good match and I taped off the wheel at the groove just inside the wheel so I did not have to do the entire thing.
Good luck and post pictures.
#7
wheel refinisher nearby would be my first contact. The wheel finisher in Detroit, MI quoted me $150/rim to restore to factory with the diamond cut surface refinishing.
I have refinished a set my self with the technique mentioned by cosmomiller successfully.
hope this helps
darcy
I have refinished a set my self with the technique mentioned by cosmomiller successfully.
hope this helps
darcy
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#8
wheel refinisher nearby would be my first contact. The wheel finisher in Detroit, MI quoted me $150/rim to restore to factory with the diamond cut surface refinishing.
I have refinished a set my self with the technique mentioned by cosmomiller successfully.
hope this helps
darcy
I have refinished a set my self with the technique mentioned by cosmomiller successfully.
hope this helps
darcy
Here are some shots of my second go at it, very happy with the results 2 years later.
#9
Diamond cut refinishing refers to the machined surfaces of the AP2V1/V2 and the AP1 wheels.
The AP2V3 wheels have not exposed machined surfaces but are completely painted.
To restore an AP2V1 wheel the wheel is completely painted then the surface that has the machined look is diamond cut. After that clear coat is applied over the painted and machined area.
The AP2V3 wheels have not exposed machined surfaces but are completely painted.
To restore an AP2V1 wheel the wheel is completely painted then the surface that has the machined look is diamond cut. After that clear coat is applied over the painted and machined area.