Vortech S/C install - a running documentary.
#1
DISCLAIMER: The procedures, methods and products written up here was for my circumstances only. I make no assertions that your results will be the same nor do I claim that this is the best way to do it. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!
WARNING! Automotive fluids are NOT good for you. You are advised to wear eye protection and rubber gloves where contact is likely. Also, "Mechanix" gloves will save you some skinned knuckles.
I'm only going to post this in our local forum in case you guys are interested in the ongoing adventures of my install. Pics and posts abound on the main forums so I won't take up space there. I'll add pics to this thread over the next few weeks as more and more get done.
Did the oil jet bolts when the oil pan was off. Ground down 2 fins, drilled and tapped the hole in the oil pan for the oil return feed. Here you can see the fitting and the tubing attached. The tubing end is plugged with a dowel to prevent the oil from puking out as there is a bit of positive pressure in the oil pan.
And here's the FMU (fuel management unit) mounted in it's new home. All tubes are taped off to keep crap from getting in.
Hopefully, tomorrow, my mechanic will have fabricated the "custom" crank pulley holder out of a large nut and long bar welded on. He said this'll cost just a few bucks. The Honda one costs over a hundred.
To be cont'd.................................
WARNING! Automotive fluids are NOT good for you. You are advised to wear eye protection and rubber gloves where contact is likely. Also, "Mechanix" gloves will save you some skinned knuckles.
I'm only going to post this in our local forum in case you guys are interested in the ongoing adventures of my install. Pics and posts abound on the main forums so I won't take up space there. I'll add pics to this thread over the next few weeks as more and more get done.
Did the oil jet bolts when the oil pan was off. Ground down 2 fins, drilled and tapped the hole in the oil pan for the oil return feed. Here you can see the fitting and the tubing attached. The tubing end is plugged with a dowel to prevent the oil from puking out as there is a bit of positive pressure in the oil pan.
And here's the FMU (fuel management unit) mounted in it's new home. All tubes are taped off to keep crap from getting in.
Hopefully, tomorrow, my mechanic will have fabricated the "custom" crank pulley holder out of a large nut and long bar welded on. He said this'll cost just a few bucks. The Honda one costs over a hundred.
To be cont'd.................................
#5
Originally posted by mike2k
Hi Dave,
This is great, I will follow this with great interest and envy wishing I had the time to do the same, perhaps this coming spring time...hopefully we can meet.
Mike
Hi Dave,
This is great, I will follow this with great interest and envy wishing I had the time to do the same, perhaps this coming spring time...hopefully we can meet.
Mike
#7
Originally posted by mike2k
Just say when and where... I'm overseas a lot.
Just say when and where... I'm overseas a lot.
I've put you on my "buddy list". This will allow me to include you in any future "group PM's". I usually post a new thread here and sent a link of it via group PM. Nothing planned yet as we just had our "snow drag race" meet not long ago. Check "Prairie Redliners" forum for those 4 threads showing vids of the event.
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#10
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Just finished putting on the S/C pulley:
I asked my mechanic friend to make me the tool for holding the crank pulley. He found a giant nut onto which he welded a metal bar. Then he used a long pipe to hold it all in place while he broke loose the pulley nut with a 19 mm socket on another long pipe. Was a piece of cake. Put on the S/C crank pulley and torqued it back to 181 ft#s. Then the S/C pulley goes on with the 6 hex bolts (using blue locktite). He kept the tool for future jobs so he didn't charge me for it. I gave him 20 Cannuck bucks for his time.
Next up: All the plumbing for the intercooler.
Just finished putting on the S/C pulley:
I asked my mechanic friend to make me the tool for holding the crank pulley. He found a giant nut onto which he welded a metal bar. Then he used a long pipe to hold it all in place while he broke loose the pulley nut with a 19 mm socket on another long pipe. Was a piece of cake. Put on the S/C crank pulley and torqued it back to 181 ft#s. Then the S/C pulley goes on with the 6 hex bolts (using blue locktite). He kept the tool for future jobs so he didn't charge me for it. I gave him 20 Cannuck bucks for his time.
Next up: All the plumbing for the intercooler.