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Why did my rear brake pads wear out faster?

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Old 04-19-2005 | 11:23 AM
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Default Why did my rear brake pads wear out faster?

Both of my front and rear pads were halfway worn and I did a couple track days a couple weeks ago. During one of my sessions I glazed my brakes and I babied the car on the way home.

Once I got back I took off the tires and inspected the pads and notice that my rear brake pads were almost completely gone. The front pads have about a quarter left.

It seems weird that the rear pads wore down so much faster than the fronts. Plus I have done other track days and auto-x's and the pads were wearing down evenly. Why all the sudden?

Could it be something to do with the brake fluid?
Old 04-19-2005 | 11:30 AM
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[QUOTE=Optikal,Apr 19 2005, 11:23 AM] Both of my front and rear pads were halfway worn and I did a couple track days a couple weeks ago. During one of my sessions I glazed my brakes and I babied the car on the way home.

Once I got back I took off the tires and inspected the pads and notice that my rear brake pads were almost completely gone. The front pads have about a quarter left.

It seems weird that the rear pads wore down so much faster than the fronts. Plus I have done other track days and auto-x's and the pads were wearing down evenly. Why all the sudden?

Could it be something to do with the brake fluid?
Old 04-19-2005 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Optikal,Apr 19 2005, 11:23 AM
Could it be something to do with the brake fluid?
Well, I suppose if you had installed the famous Kale Co cross-drilled brake lines I can pretty much guarantee your pads would have lasted forever.
Old 04-19-2005 | 11:42 AM
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........ if you boiled the fronts then the brake bias gets shifted rearward until you boil those to shift things back forward at which point you're totally fucl<ed (looks like you got half way there, Did it hurt?)
Old 04-19-2005 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by RT,Apr 19 2005, 11:42 AM
........ if you boiled the fronts then the brake bias gets shifted rearward until you boil those to shift things back forward at which point you're totally fucl<ed (looks like you got half way there, Did it hurt?)
Me thinks you boiled the fluid on the fronts. How often are you bleeding the brakes Ananda?
Old 04-19-2005 | 12:49 PM
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The 'Boss' bleeds Ananda daily, ............... doesn't she?
Old 04-19-2005 | 01:30 PM
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Daily, daily.... you ever seen Shawn of the Dead?



I am using Superblue for brake fluid. Not too sure what the boiling tolerances are for that fluid. And not a 100% sure if I know what boiling brake fluid feels like when braking.

I remember the incidence when I was braking from 115 to about 50 to take a turn and I was not slowing down enough to make it. I stepped on the pedal some more and I felt the characteristics of the brake pedal change. The pedal depressed even more and I felt the wobbles from the rotor, plus the car wasn't slowing down as fast as I was trying to apply more brake.

I made the turn and started braking for the next chicane and the pedal felt really spongy and wasn't braking like it used to. After a few more hard braking instances the braking power started to slowly come back. But not to the same degree as before.

When I changed the rear brake pads the brake pedal felt really good. I gave the car a few runs and hard brakes and everything seems fine.

Now if I had boiled my brake fluid I probably will still have really spongy pedals. Correct?



Anyway, it sounds like I need to start thinking about higher performance brake pads (again). Because I am beginning to see the limits of the stock pads. And as a precaution I would like to bleed the brake system soon. (Melinda should be an expert at that )

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Old 04-19-2005 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Optikal,Apr 19 2005, 01:30 PM
I am using Superblue for brake fluid. Not too sure what the boiling tolerances are for that fluid. And not a 100% sure if I know what boiling brake fluid feels like when braking.

I remember the incidence when I was braking from 115 to about 50 to take a turn and I was not slowing down enough to make it. I stepped on the pedal some more and I felt the characteristics of the brake pedal change. The pedal depressed even more and I felt the wobbles from the rotor, plus the car wasn't slowing down as fast as I was trying to apply more brake.

I made the turn and started braking for the next chicane and the pedal felt really spongy and wasn't braking like it used to. After a few more hard braking instances the braking power started to slowly come back. But not to the same degree as before.

When I changed the rear brake pads the brake pedal felt really good. I gave the car a few runs and hard brakes and everything seems fine.

Now if I had boiled my brake fluid I probably will still have really spongy pedals. Correct?
I think it is a pad issue. You shouldn't be boiling Superblue. But bleed and see if you have any bubbles.
Old 04-19-2005 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mikegarrison,Apr 19 2005, 10:34 AM
Well, I suppose if you had installed the famous Kale Co cross-drilled brake lines I can pretty much guarantee your pads would have lasted forever.
These look like a good addition for the price!
Old 04-19-2005 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Optikal,Apr 19 2005, 01:30 PM
I remember the incidence when I was braking from 115 to about 50 to take a turn and I was not slowing down enough to make it. I stepped on the pedal some more and I felt the characteristics of the brake pedal change. The pedal depressed even more and I felt the wobbles from the rotor, plus the car wasn't slowing down as fast as I was trying to apply more brake.
Say hello to ABS.



Its easy to boil even SuperBlue (415f limit) if you don't take full advantage of a cool down lap. The caliper simply needs to get to 400+ degrees while sitting in the pits to generate an air pocket in the brake line. Rotors can easily hit twice(even three times) that temperature on track. This will bake the calipers up to temp while the car is sitting in the pits. You don't normally boil fluid while the car is in motion because you have airflow over the brakes to mitigate the heat.



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