Dravens08S2k

I bought and installed the CC stage 3.5 clutch and light flywheel. I also deleted the cdv from my slave. Freaking love it much better than the oem ap2 setup. Very responsive and the clutch engages right away. Only con i have bout the setup is the clutch buzz. Im use to the minor sound now i hear stage 2 cc clutch is pretty comparable to oem. Reason why I went stage 3.5 is because I plan on going FI otherwise I would of probably went with oem or cc stage 2. Hope this helps.

moneygk

Well, I just had my motor replaced and while the engine was out he called to tell me that the clutch was, in his words, "less than 5% left". The clutch is grabbing a lot later in the pedal travel... like right before the very top. It is still holding very well while accelerating. It's the first gear take off that it feels kind of worn out and weak.

I don't plan to go FI anytime soon but possibly next spring... and nothing too extreme. I seen a couple SC'd cars at dyno day that were making me jealous. Haha. I just figured that if I was going to be in there already, I might as well put something a little better than stock while still trying to maintain the stock feel if possible. The CC stage 2 looked like it would fit that description. It would be at the max torque rating with SC though... figured I might not have to replace it when I did go FI.

clio

Surprised you didn't change the clutch whilst engine was out... guessing it was a question of cash flow or time. Concerning the clutch itself the *only* generally accepted disc that will cure the dreaded clutch buzz noise is the oem Honda. If you want more bite or ability to handle more power then team up the oem disc with an uprated pressure plate.
Concerning the install be aware that it involves approx 36-40 inches of socket extension(s) to reach the top starter bolt on firewall and also is necessary to lower engine sub frame to tilt down engine.

moneygk

Silly me, I thought my warranty might actually cover a clutch... so I had him put it back together and called it good.

I wish I would've done it now.

street_ruler

ok, if the clutch is fine and its just grabbing at the "top" thats just an adjustment of the master cylinder rod if you want it to engage in a different place. yes it CAN be an indicator of wear (i was once told that if the fluid doesnt ever leak and you start with the exact max amount that at MIN, thats where the clutch is out of material. no idea if thats true or not)



Everyone's going FI...someday. if you dont need to drive that heavy of a clutch then i wouldnt bother. just adjust your clutch and let it be until you actually go FI. then worry about that.

clio

The ACT hd pressure plate with oem disc will handle a base FI setup if need be and has stock drivability. Also no clutch buzz. Search this it is a hugely popular combo.

r_holguin

This is a simple process just make sure you have a really long extension and a good breaker bar. Don't try to avoid taking the header off just do that and you'll save yourself so much pain. It can be done in a day but most of the time isn't cause you start morning take tranny and clutch and flywheel out bet to machine shop and they say they can't have it back to you till afternoon or the next day so it depends on the machine shop and how fast you are.