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Replacing Pads and Rotors

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Old 05-01-2006, 09:20 AM
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what Tim said .....be careful NOT to strip them....usally come out easy on newer cars.....(can also try high volt drill with (big tip) phillips bit)



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Old 05-01-2006, 09:34 AM
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Jay,

Your running the spoon calipers correct? how much of a difference do they make?
Old 05-01-2006, 09:38 AM
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The stock pads are a pretty good balance between low noise, low dust, and decent bite. If you're ok with some dusting and noise, there are plenty of performance pads that offer more initial bite. Carbotech, Porterfield, Hawk, etc each have dedicated fans, and people who swear they'll never use that specific brand again. Personally, I have used Carbotech Panthers and Bobcats (not on the S, tho). Panthers grab fast, but are noisy and are very dirty. The first stop or 2 on cold pads is also noticeably longer, which can be scary. Bobcats aren't quite as grabby, are pretty much silent, work great cold, and are dirtier than stock but not as bad as Panthers.

I'd recommend avoiding cross drilled or slotted rotors unless you do a ton of track days. For street use, the those rotors usually *increase* both stopping distances and the chance of brake fade. With a slotted or drilled rotor, there is less contact area between the pads and the rotor, therefore less friction and longer stops. And since there is less metal to heat up due to all the fancy looking holes, the rotors heat up faster, which causes the rest of the system to heat up faster, which causes quicker brake fade. Drilled or slotted rotors do result in reduced brake fade at the track, where the car is going fast enough to push a bunch of cool air over the rotors. But for street use, that generally does not happen. There's another type of brake fade where the pads basically start cooking and outgassing. The slotted/drilled rotors do help to move away those gases, but if you're experiencing that, you'd probably be better off with a performance pad.

But, if you're absolutely in love with the look (granted, they do look hawt), go for slotted rotors. The have more metal and so heat up slower than drilled, and they are less likely to crack.
Old 05-01-2006, 10:20 AM
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The stock stock pads and rotors are decent. The only reason you would need to get an aftermarket rotor is for appearance.
Old 05-01-2006, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Ubetit,May 1 2006, 01:20 PM
The stock stock pads and rotors are decent. The only reason you would need to get an aftermarket rotor is for appearance.
Old 05-01-2006, 11:32 AM
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sounds like stock pads and rotors is the way to go..
her car is an '00 ap1 so i have a feeling there will be a bit more work required to get the bolts loose.
if anyone is available one weekend, i'd appreciate some help.. If I can see how one is done, I think I can get the rest (then I can replace the pads on my car as well )

thanks everyone for your help
Old 05-01-2006, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by LilJapnBoy,May 1 2006, 11:52 AM
Ah, now I know why Cheryl is dating you.....

You've never done this much manual car work before.....
Never mind the manual labour part - the price difference is nuts. Dealer told me the fronts are $190 a piece and I think $130 a piece for the rear.



Thanks for everyone's input - much much appreciated!
Old 05-01-2006, 04:12 PM
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I agree. Stock pads and rotors are quite plenty for everyday and even the moderate track driving.
Old 05-01-2006, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Ubetit,May 1 2006, 10:20 AM
The stock stock pads and rotors are decent. The only reason you would need to get an aftermarket rotor is for appearance.


If Bling Bling Timmy just got some Brembos, buy his OEM stuff off him and make him install them . I also have the tool so you don't need an impact if you need it.
Old 05-01-2006, 05:45 PM
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didn't say I'd install them right away


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