Mechanic for 2006 S2000 engine rebuild
#1
Mechanic for 2006 S2000 engine rebuild
My 2006 S2000 has broken down its main bearings after only 26,000 miles. ?failure of oil pump? Car is in really excellent condition everywhere else . I am located in Lexington, KY and am looking for recommendations on an engine rebuild. Who is the best mechanic within 300 miles? I need your help.
Thank you,
Rick
Thank you,
Rick
#2
#4
Thank you noodles.
Interesting thread. Also, I noted a week prior to loosing my engine that when I did a cold start in about 35 degree morning that the engine slowed and twice died when I engaged the clutch at the beginning of the warm up and would only run well during the warm up if I disengaged the clutch pedal. That day I only drove it about a half mile after warmup because I hadn't driven it in about 3 weeks and I like to warm it up a few times a month in the winter here in Kentucky and not get flat spots on the tires. This is not a daily driver, only about 1500 miles per year put on the car, mostly in summer months.
Prior to this my engine and clutch had no problems or symptoms at all. 26,000 miles with no issues and careful maintenance.
There are aluminum and brass fragments in my oil and the oil is very black with a milky coating. Previous oil change was 2000 miles prior to this using advanced synthetic 10w30. I am told that it requires a rebuild or a replacement engine. What a shock to hear that.
Was this an issue of the thrust washer being defective or installed incorrectly by Honda?
Rick
Interesting thread. Also, I noted a week prior to loosing my engine that when I did a cold start in about 35 degree morning that the engine slowed and twice died when I engaged the clutch at the beginning of the warm up and would only run well during the warm up if I disengaged the clutch pedal. That day I only drove it about a half mile after warmup because I hadn't driven it in about 3 weeks and I like to warm it up a few times a month in the winter here in Kentucky and not get flat spots on the tires. This is not a daily driver, only about 1500 miles per year put on the car, mostly in summer months.
Prior to this my engine and clutch had no problems or symptoms at all. 26,000 miles with no issues and careful maintenance.
There are aluminum and brass fragments in my oil and the oil is very black with a milky coating. Previous oil change was 2000 miles prior to this using advanced synthetic 10w30. I am told that it requires a rebuild or a replacement engine. What a shock to hear that.
Was this an issue of the thrust washer being defective or installed incorrectly by Honda?
Rick
#6
Hi, its me, I'm the guy you're looking for. If this is thrust washer/bearing failure and they are still in place but hurt and not mains this could be a salvage operation. If it decided to get hot and start eating at the crank and block surfaces its going to be a bigger issue. Seeing this all at 26k is kind of shocking though. Do you have the ability to get a dial from harbor freight and check for the thrust runout and see if how far it is pushing? Also do you have the ability to drop the oil pan and windage tray to investigate further? I'm located in Dayton but would love to get a little more idea of what's going on.
#7
Thank you JBamin.
The car went to storage and I will try to arrange for the crank float test and take off oil pan and look at how bad the damage is.
There are small brass and aluminum fragments in the oil that was drained from the engine and the oil is very black.
Thank you for the important advice.
I am looking at my alternatives if the block and crank are bad.
1. Selling it to someone who wants to put another engine in it. The car itself is in extremely good condition was always garaged and only drove it 1500 miles a year in good weather. I have owned it for 15 years.
2. Install a used engine in it. All available engines I can find have 150,000 plus miles.
3. Do a 24k swap or 24 k turbo swap.
4. Find a short block somewhere and rebuild. I don’t know if they are available.
What would you do?
thanks again.
The car went to storage and I will try to arrange for the crank float test and take off oil pan and look at how bad the damage is.
There are small brass and aluminum fragments in the oil that was drained from the engine and the oil is very black.
Thank you for the important advice.
I am looking at my alternatives if the block and crank are bad.
1. Selling it to someone who wants to put another engine in it. The car itself is in extremely good condition was always garaged and only drove it 1500 miles a year in good weather. I have owned it for 15 years.
2. Install a used engine in it. All available engines I can find have 150,000 plus miles.
3. Do a 24k swap or 24 k turbo swap.
4. Find a short block somewhere and rebuild. I don’t know if they are available.
What would you do?
thanks again.
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#8
Sorry for the delay, was at the dragon over the weekend.
I've talked to quite a few people through their unfortunate situations requiring a new powertrain. Obviously the best options are a blend of budget and goals. I will say finding a lower mileage replacement engine has been very difficult and very expensive. and this option often falls off the list when pricing out other options. k24 is a great option if you want something that is ready for track days and modification. They tend to be much cheaper to repair and replace while also being more reliable. Upfront cost is high because of the conversion cost. My suggestion is to send the motor off for a stroker build. It gives you a fresh 0 mile build with more power and no more FRM sleeves. Its getting a new crank anyways so no worries about the current one and as long as the mains on the block didn't get destroyed.. its reusable. act fast and you could be back up and enjoying the car by late spring early summer.
I've talked to quite a few people through their unfortunate situations requiring a new powertrain. Obviously the best options are a blend of budget and goals. I will say finding a lower mileage replacement engine has been very difficult and very expensive. and this option often falls off the list when pricing out other options. k24 is a great option if you want something that is ready for track days and modification. They tend to be much cheaper to repair and replace while also being more reliable. Upfront cost is high because of the conversion cost. My suggestion is to send the motor off for a stroker build. It gives you a fresh 0 mile build with more power and no more FRM sleeves. Its getting a new crank anyways so no worries about the current one and as long as the mains on the block didn't get destroyed.. its reusable. act fast and you could be back up and enjoying the car by late spring early summer.