Official Enkei RPF1 Thread PT 2.
03-08-2011, 05:32 AM
#1051
I've said it numerous times and people don't seem to believe it but the 9.5 +38s are significantly more work to fit than the 9 +45s.
Dreaming_s2k said it too. The part that you need the most clearance on is where the quarter panel and rear bumper come together. When I put the 9.5 +38s on my car I kept going back and shaving more bumper down and and trying to pull the quarters more and it just kept rubbing. Only then did I realize that it's that joint that was causing all the rubbing.
If/when I get another s2k I won't be getting another set of 9.5 +38s.
Dreaming_s2k said it too. The part that you need the most clearance on is where the quarter panel and rear bumper come together. When I put the 9.5 +38s on my car I kept going back and shaving more bumper down and and trying to pull the quarters more and it just kept rubbing. Only then did I realize that it's that joint that was causing all the rubbing.
If/when I get another s2k I won't be getting another set of 9.5 +38s.
For me it's just kinda a trade-off. I love the look of this type of fitment unstaggered, but the fact of the matter is it takes work. If I did it all over again I'm not exactly sure what I'd do, but I know that if I would have done the setup I currently have, I would have gone about it much differently. That joint by the bumper isn't as big of a deal if you know that it's going to be that way ahead of time. You can take greater care to make sure that it folds up neater, and you can even trim down the edge before you fold, making it easier to clear under there.
Also, don't be afraid of a rubber mallet if you need to use one. I've had to use one on mine to get that extra mm or 2.
03-08-2011, 06:05 AM
#1052
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I've said it numerous times and people don't seem to believe it but the 9.5 +38s are significantly more work to fit than the 9 +45s.
Dreaming_s2k said it too. The part that you need the most clearance on is where the quarter panel and rear bumper come together. When I put the 9.5 +38s on my car I kept going back and shaving more bumper down and and trying to pull the quarters more and it just kept rubbing. Only then did I realize that it's that joint that was causing all the rubbing.
If/when I get another s2k I won't be getting another set of 9.5 +38s.
Dreaming_s2k said it too. The part that you need the most clearance on is where the quarter panel and rear bumper come together. When I put the 9.5 +38s on my car I kept going back and shaving more bumper down and and trying to pull the quarters more and it just kept rubbing. Only then did I realize that it's that joint that was causing all the rubbing.
If/when I get another s2k I won't be getting another set of 9.5 +38s.
How are u guys having so much trouble with the 9.5's? I have the 10 +38 all around and I have no rubbing issue whatsoever.
03-08-2011, 07:01 AM
#1053
It's not so much the wheel as the tire choice dnp. Try a fairly square 265/40 on that 10 in the rear and see how easy it is then, while using -4 or less camber. 9.5 +38 with a 255 isn't that easy for a functional, track-going setup when you're trying to do body work that avoids paint cracking, etc...Of course we could take our cars to a body shop and get serious, but we're discussing ways to accomplish this while avoiding all that.
03-08-2011, 07:53 AM
#1054
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It's not so much the wheel as the tire choice dnp. Try a fairly square 265/40 on that 10 in the rear and see how easy it is then, while using -4 or less camber. 9.5 +38 with a 255 isn't that easy for a functional, track-going setup when you're trying to do body work that avoids paint cracking, etc...Of course we could take our cars to a body shop and get serious, but we're discussing ways to accomplish this while avoiding all that.
03-08-2011, 01:25 PM
#1055
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I've looked through both RPF1 threads and can't find what I'm looking for but it's possible I overlooked it.
Is anyone running these with Koni Yellows and either Swift, Espelir, or Tein S Techs? Just wanting to see the gap between the tire and fender.
Is anyone running these with Koni Yellows and either Swift, Espelir, or Tein S Techs? Just wanting to see the gap between the tire and fender.
03-08-2011, 08:14 PM
#1057
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Did you adjust the alignment yourself? I've got no clue regarding your experience so forgive me if I mention things you already know, but adjusting camber in this car affects toe. Have you had your toe settings checked? The car would definitely be all over the place if your toe was off. I do know for a fact that alot of race alignments run -3 camber up front, so that's the least of your worries. As far as the rear, all I can really say is that I've run as much as -4 in the rear, and it seems to be just fine. I'd really get the toe settings checked. Not just total toe, but how it is relative to the car too. Your total toe could be 0, and the rears are still both pointing say, left.
As far as the front, if you don't pull some, you're going to get some poke. The s2k has alot of camber gain, so it should tuck as suspension compresses, but just sitting there, if the fronts aren't flared or pulled, that's just what it is.
The term "fender pull" is a little misleading. If you're using a fender rolling tool, really what you're doing is making the tool push the angle of the fender out some. For the rears with the wheel size you have, the biggest area of concern is actually not even the top of the fender radius, but actually where the fender meets the rear bumper, along with the leading edge of the bumper and where the bumper bolt attaches to the fender (the upper one, underneath) The sheet metal in the rear is pretty stiff, but it's very do-able to make it work. The front fenders are another story, they're very thin and easy to make very wavy if you're not careful.
I really want to get some decent shots of my car, and I'm working on it soon, once I do I'll get some shots up. I've got 17x9.5 +38 all around now, with 245 fronts and 255 rears.
As far as the front, if you don't pull some, you're going to get some poke. The s2k has alot of camber gain, so it should tuck as suspension compresses, but just sitting there, if the fronts aren't flared or pulled, that's just what it is.
The term "fender pull" is a little misleading. If you're using a fender rolling tool, really what you're doing is making the tool push the angle of the fender out some. For the rears with the wheel size you have, the biggest area of concern is actually not even the top of the fender radius, but actually where the fender meets the rear bumper, along with the leading edge of the bumper and where the bumper bolt attaches to the fender (the upper one, underneath) The sheet metal in the rear is pretty stiff, but it's very do-able to make it work. The front fenders are another story, they're very thin and easy to make very wavy if you're not careful.
I really want to get some decent shots of my car, and I'm working on it soon, once I do I'll get some shots up. I've got 17x9.5 +38 all around now, with 245 fronts and 255 rears.
So when I roll the fenders, it will pull them as well, huh? Well I'll get that done and see how that works. I was really hoping to worry about all the fitment issues after I dropped it but oh well. I really screwed up because I absolutely love the look of the wheels but the fitment and rubbing is driving me bonkers.
Ill keep my eyes open for other options, but for now I think Im gonna try and make it work. So...S2ki...what's the best way to make these suckers fit? (preferably list mods in order of importance and including post coilover drop)
EDIT: Currently running 235/45 and 255/40 and looking for any color RPF1s in 9+45 fitment...
03-12-2011, 09:26 PM
#1059
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