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I have UCA offset bushings on my ap1 but my ap2 has hardrace lower offset ball joints.
Definitely prefer the UCA bushings to ball joints for front clearance.
How is your tire wear and handling on the street with that much camber? Did you go 245 for easier figment or for looks?
[QUOTE=.Boston.;24924276]TE37SLs
17x9.5
+45
Matte Blue Gunmetal
245/40 PS4S tires
-3.1 Front & -3.0 Rear camber
I have UCA offset bushings on my ap1 but my ap2 has hardrace lower offset ball joints.
Definitely prefer the UCA bushings to ball joints for front clearance.
[/QUOTE
Beautiful! What front splitter is that? I need one.
Beautiful! What front splitter is that? I need one.
Its just a lip protector from lowpro aero, has been discontinued. They pop up for sale from time to time.
Originally Posted by MPower13
How is your tire wear and handling on the street with that much camber? Did you go 245 for easier figment or for looks?
Tires wear evenly. You're not going to see excessive wear unless you have a lot of toe in or out.
Handling is awesome, I'm at 7 degrees of caster, 0 toe front and .2 toe in on the rear. I run -3.6 front and -3 rear camber on my track car. One of the best mods for a S2000 is adding camber IMO.
I would have gone with 255s but they don't make a 255/40 in the Michelin ps4s tire.
What offset on a 17x9 or 17x9.5 gets to the point of being aggressive enough that…
1. Need beyond -2 camber front and rear
2. Fenders need a lot of massaging
3. Lose functionality as a street car
I want to run a 255 square setup and be as flush possible right before the point of crossing the sacrificing functionality line. I do not mind rolling the inner fender lip or relocating the rear tab. But I really prefer not to need offset bushings or camber ball joints. Also don’t want to worry about turnout the wheel when going up an incline and crunching my fender.
Appreciate any guidance!
There is no 17x9 or 9.5 size that fits your critetia.
17x9 +63 will rub on the control arm at full lock.
Anything more agressive, and you'll run into issues on the out-board clearance.
Why don't you want camber joints or offset bushings? Those are the easiest tools to use for wheel fitment.
Tire wear will not be brilliant with low offset wheels and added camber....even if toe is straight. You can mitigate some of the wear by controlling front bump steer somehow, and also adding toe-in to the front to help cancel the effect of dynamic toe-out.
Remember, lower offset = higher scrub radius. Meaning the wheels will tend to toe out as you drive. So run a tiny bit of toe-in up front.
Spherical compliance and LCA bushings will also help with that.
Tire choices can be made to help with wear. MPSS or MPS4's, for example, are designed to resist that type of uneven wear wear. But they will still start to cup over time.
And you will still need to make sensible decisions to avoid crunching the fender when going up/down a driveway or curb.
You're gonna have to accept some compromise, basically. If the car was made for 17x9's up front, it would have come with them from the factory.
There is no 17x9 or 9.5 size that fits your critetia.
17x9 +63 will rub on the control arm at full lock.
Anything more agressive, and you'll run into issues on the out-board clearance.
Why don't you want camber joints or offset bushings? Those are the easiest tools to use for wheel fitment.
Tire wear will not be brilliant with low offset wheels and added camber....even if toe is straight. You can mitigate some of the wear by controlling front bump steer somehow, and also adding toe-in to the front to help cancel the effect of dynamic toe-out.
Remember, lower offset = higher scrub radius. Meaning the wheels will tend to toe out as you drive. So run a tiny bit of toe-in up front.
Spherical compliance and LCA bushings will also help with that.
Tire choices can be made to help with wear. MPSS or MPS4's, for example, are designed to resist that type of uneven wear wear. But they will still start to cup over time.
And you will still need to make sensible decisions to avoid crunching the fender when going up/down a driveway or curb.
You're gonna have to accept some compromise, basically. If the car was made for 17x9's up front, it would have come with them from the factory.
Thanks for the feedback. After more research I have warmed up to the idea of UCA offset bushings. I went ahead and ordered the TE37s.
Picked up these essentially NOS OG TE37 last month, not a single spec of brake dust in the barrels. I was originally going to get them powdercoated but when I saw the condition there was no way I could bring myself to strip them and now I'm absolutely in love with the finish. Very rare Chrome Silver, its Titanium Silver with a gloss clear coat. 17x7.5 +40, 17x85 +40
Picked up these essentially NOS OG TE37 last month, not a single spec of brake dust in the barrels. I was originally going to get them powdercoated but when I saw the condition there was no way I could bring myself to strip them and now I'm absolutely in love with the finish. Very rare Chrome Silver, its Titanium Silver with a gloss clear coat. 17x7.5 +40, 17x85 +40
I'm usually not one for flat face TEs but this spec is perfect..
Really fits the era of early 2000s jdm cars.
Originally Posted by maranelloboy05
Picked up these essentially NOS OG TE37 last month, not a single spec of brake dust in the barrels. I was originally going to get them powdercoated but when I saw the condition there was no way I could bring myself to strip them and now I'm absolutely in love with the finish. Very rare Chrome Silver, its Titanium Silver with a gloss clear coat. 17x7.5 +40, 17x85 +40
04-12-2022 | 05:41 PM
