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What offset on a 17x9 or 17x9.5 gets to the point of being aggressive enough that…
1. Need beyond -2 camber front and rear
2. Fenders need a lot of massaging
3. Lose functionality as a street car
I want to run a 255 square setup and be as flush possible right before the point of crossing the sacrificing functionality line. I do not mind rolling the inner fender lip or relocating the rear tab. But I really prefer not to need offset bushings or camber ball joints. Also don’t want to worry about turnout the wheel when going up an incline and crunching my fender.
What offset on a 17x9 or 17x9.5 gets to the point of being aggressive enough that…
1. Need beyond -2 camber front and rear
2. Fenders need a lot of massaging
3. Lose functionality as a street car
I want to run a 255 square setup and be as flush possible right before the point of crossing the sacrificing functionality line. I do not mind rolling the inner fender lip or relocating the rear tab. But I really prefer not to need offset bushings or camber ball joints. Also don’t want to worry about turnout the wheel when going up an incline and crunching my fender.
Appreciate any guidance!
I know you said you don't want to run the offset bushing, any specific reason as to why? I'm going to recommended a size that goes perfectly with the bushings. 17x9.5 +47 with a 255 and the front UCA bushings is absolutely perfect. My car is a street car. I can co over speed bumps, in and out of driveways, and whatever other obstacles you encounter on the street. The bushings up front make the whole set up. The wheels no longer bulge against the front fenders and instead sit under the fenders properly. Even with the more conservative fitment it's so tight that my tires have burnt through the clear bra that was wrapped onto the underside of the fender lip. There is no damage to the paint, and no damage to the fender. This is the most aggressive size that I'm personally willing to run up front and I believe the fact that the tires have physically removed the layer of clear bra from the underside illustrates how tight the fitment actually is.
I have seen some guys have problems with the bushings on track cars with the tires rubbing on the inside of the frame. That's something to be aware of, but it's been a non-issue for me. If the bushings are absolutely not an options you'll want to look into a wheel size that's another 8-9mm more conservative and go from there. I'm not sure what 9.5 +55 wheels are out there but I'm sure there is something. Or the standard 9 +63 all around would work as well, but it's going to be more conservative than mine. Search for @adrs2k thread in the gallery, he has a ton of photos of that size wheel with rolled fenders. If you're specifically looking for Volk wheels your sizing options are going to be limited.
Here are a couple of pictures of mine to get an idea of how it all sits.
I know you said you don't want to run the offset bushing, any specific reason as to why? I'm going to recommended a size that goes perfectly with the bushings. 17x9.5 +47 with a 255 and the front UCA bushings is absolutely perfect. My car is a street car. I can co over speed bumps, in and out of driveways, and whatever other obstacles you encounter on the street. The bushings up front make the whole set up. The wheels no longer bulge against the front fenders and instead sit under the fenders properly. Even with the more conservative fitment it's so tight that my tires have burnt through the clear bra that was wrapped onto the underside of the fender lip. There is no damage to the paint, and no damage to the fender. This is the most aggressive size that I'm personally willing to run up front and I believe the fact that the tires have physically removed the layer of clear bra from the underside illustrates how tight the fitment actually is.
I have seen some guys have problems with the bushings on track cars with the tires rubbing on the inside of the frame. That's something to be aware of, but it's been a non-issue for me. If the bushings are absolutely not an options you'll want to look into a wheel size that's another 8-9mm more conservative and go from there. I'm not sure what 9.5 +55 wheels are out there but I'm sure there is something. Or the standard 9 +63 all around would work as well, but it's going to be more conservative than mine. Search for @adrs2k thread in the gallery, he has a ton of photos of that size wheel with rolled fenders. If you're specifically looking for Volk wheels your sizing options are going to be limited.
Here are a couple of pictures of mine to get an idea of how it all sits.
Thanks for the advice! Your car looks incredible. What kind of camber are you having to run front and back? What offset bushings are you running and do you have any issues with squeaking?
I have had my heart set on TE’s but after reading through this thread it seems like there are more less aggressive options with the CE’s. The Idleboost TE37SL is a 17x9.5 +45 but I have seen so many conflicting opinions on that setup and sacrifices you have to make to run them on the street.
Thanks for the advice! Your car looks incredible. What kind of camber are you having to run front and back? What offset bushings are you running and do you have any issues with squeaking?
I have had my heart set on TE’s but after reading through this thread it seems like there are more less aggressive options with the CE’s. The Idleboost TE37SL is a 17x9.5 +45 but I have seen so many conflicting opinions on that setup and sacrifices you have to make to run them on the street.
-2.8 front and rear. Origin Fabrication bushings. No noise or squeaking at all.
I have UCA offset bushings on my ap1 but my ap2 has hardrace lower offset ball joints.
Definitely prefer the UCA bushings to ball joints for front clearance.
04-09-2022 | 09:15 PM
My kingdom for a set of LE37K.
