**Official non-staggered & meaty tires thread**
#862
What I'm disagreeing with is this
Your saying 17x9 +48 with 265 is on stock body is the same as what I'm running with over fenders? You wouldn't prob rub at all especially with -4 camber. I'm saying I disagree it would probably be more aggressive, as the 265 adds 5mm more and the 9.5 in rim adds another 6mm which means your running 17x9 +48 w/ -11mm which is 17x9 +37 which would be more similar to the setup so what I'm saying is a 17x9+38 w/ 265 on stock body is equal to what I'm running 17x9.5+22 w/ 265 with overfenders
Your saying 17x9 +48 with 265 is on stock body is the same as what I'm running with over fenders? You wouldn't prob rub at all especially with -4 camber. I'm saying I disagree it would probably be more aggressive, as the 265 adds 5mm more and the 9.5 in rim adds another 6mm which means your running 17x9 +48 w/ -11mm which is 17x9 +37 which would be more similar to the setup so what I'm saying is a 17x9+38 w/ 265 on stock body is equal to what I'm running 17x9.5+22 w/ 265 with overfenders
If I then add +10mm of offset, the wheel and the tire will shift inward 10mm, and that is done regardless of wheel width. Whether I have a 10" wheel or an 8" wheel, the amount of distance moved due to offset remains the same between the two. Thus, relative to the hub, the wheel (and therefore tire) will sit in the same position if the offsets are the same, regardless of wheel width.
Since the hub and fender are not being adjusted (in this example), the tire itself only shifts in relation to the fender via offset changes, because regardless of wheel width the tire centerline will always rely on wheel offset to shift relative to the hub. So, other than pinching or stretching, the wheel has no effect on the tire's position relative to the fender. (0 wheel offset is always 0 tire offset, regardless of wheel width. That leaves the tire at 0 offset regardless of how stretched or pinched the tire is)
By shifting the fender out +25 with overfenders, it's like increasing wheel offset (from the fender's perspective) +25mm (going from a +48 to a +73, as seen from the fender's point of view). So, that makes a +22 equivalent to a +47 (which I think everyone agrees on). What doesn't come into play is the width of the wheel. Whether the wheel is 10" wide or 8" wide, the offset of the wheel is (effectively) +47 (due to overfenders). Increasing the width of the wheel doesn't add any width to the tire (other than reducing pinch), so the tire remains on a +47 offset (because it's centerline will always match the centerline of the wheel, which is only offset from the hub by (effectively)+47)
For reals, check out the will it fit (or whatever it is from above) website and play with it. Only by changing offsets can you shift the wheel centerline (and therefore tire centerline). As long as tire centerline remains the same (offset) from one wheel to the next, width of the wheel is only relevant in how much stretch or pinch is present.
Adding wheel width doesn't add to offset, it only changes front or back spacing.
(edited for clarity)
#864
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#865
Originally Posted by 03supers2k' timestamp='1302569712' post='20455340
What I'm disagreeing with is this
Your saying 17x9 +48 with 265 is on stock body is the same as what I'm running with over fenders? You wouldn't prob rub at all especially with -4 camber. I'm saying I disagree it would probably be more aggressive, as the 265 adds 5mm more and the 9.5 in rim adds another 6mm which means your running 17x9 +48 w/ -11mm which is 17x9 +37 which would be more similar to the setup so what I'm saying is a 17x9+38 w/ 265 on stock body is equal to what I'm running 17x9.5+22 w/ 265 with overfenders
Your saying 17x9 +48 with 265 is on stock body is the same as what I'm running with over fenders? You wouldn't prob rub at all especially with -4 camber. I'm saying I disagree it would probably be more aggressive, as the 265 adds 5mm more and the 9.5 in rim adds another 6mm which means your running 17x9 +48 w/ -11mm which is 17x9 +37 which would be more similar to the setup so what I'm saying is a 17x9+38 w/ 265 on stock body is equal to what I'm running 17x9.5+22 w/ 265 with overfenders
If I then add +10mm of offset, the wheel and the tire will shift inward 10mm, and that is done regardless of wheel width. Whether I have a 10" wheel or an 8" wheel, the amount of distance moved due to offset remains the same between the two. Thus, relative to the hub, the wheel (and therefore tire) will sit in the same position if the offsets are the same, regardless of wheel width.
Since the hub and fender are not being adjusted (in this example), the tire itself only shifts in relation to the fender via offset changes, because regardless of wheel width the tire centerline will always rely on wheel offset to shift relative to the hub. So, other than pinching or stretching, the wheel has no effect on the tire's position relative to the fender. (0 wheel offset is always 0 tire offset, regardless of wheel width. That leaves the tire at 0 offset regardless of how stretched or pinched the tire is)
By shifting the fender out +25 with overfenders, it's like increasing wheel offset (from the fender's perspective) +25mm (going from a +48 to a +73, as seen from the fender's point of view). So, that makes a +22 equivalent to a +47 (which I think everyone agrees on). What doesn't come into play is the width of the wheel. Whether the wheel is 10" wide or 8" wide, the offset of the wheel is (effectively) +47 (due to overfenders). Increasing the width of the wheel doesn't add any width to the tire (other than reducing pinch), so the tire remains on a +47 offset (because it's centerline will always match the centerline of the wheel, which is only offset from the hub by (effectively)+47)
For reals, check out the will it fit (or whatever it is from above) website and play with it. Only by changing offsets can you shift the wheel centerline (and therefore tire centerline). As long as tire centerline remains the same (offset) from one wheel to the next, width of the wheel is only relevant in how much stretch or pinch is present.
Adding wheel width doesn't add to offset, it only changes front or back spacing.
(edited for clarity)
#866
Originally Posted by 03supers2k' timestamp='1302569712' post='20455340
What I'm disagreeing with is this
Your saying 17x9 +48 with 265 is on stock body is the same as what I'm running with over fenders? You wouldn't prob rub at all especially with -4 camber. I'm saying I disagree it would probably be more aggressive, as the 265 adds 5mm more and the 9.5 in rim adds another 6mm which means your running 17x9 +48 w/ -11mm which is 17x9 +37 which would be more similar to the setup so what I'm saying is a 17x9+38 w/ 265 on stock body is equal to what I'm running 17x9.5+22 w/ 265 with overfenders
Your saying 17x9 +48 with 265 is on stock body is the same as what I'm running with over fenders? You wouldn't prob rub at all especially with -4 camber. I'm saying I disagree it would probably be more aggressive, as the 265 adds 5mm more and the 9.5 in rim adds another 6mm which means your running 17x9 +48 w/ -11mm which is 17x9 +37 which would be more similar to the setup so what I'm saying is a 17x9+38 w/ 265 on stock body is equal to what I'm running 17x9.5+22 w/ 265 with overfenders
If I then add +10mm of offset, the wheel and the tire will shift inward 10mm, and that is done regardless of wheel width. Whether I have a 10" wheel or an 8" wheel, the amount of distance moved due to offset remains the same between the two. Thus, relative to the hub, the wheel (and therefore tire) will sit in the same position if the offsets are the same, regardless of wheel width.
Since the hub and fender are not being adjusted (in this example), the tire itself only shifts in relation to the fender via offset changes, because regardless of wheel width the tire centerline will always rely on wheel offset to shift relative to the hub. So, other than pinching or stretching, the wheel has no effect on the tire's position relative to the fender. (0 wheel offset is always 0 tire offset, regardless of wheel width. That leaves the tire at 0 offset regardless of how stretched or pinched the tire is)
By shifting the fender out +25 with overfenders, it's like increasing wheel offset (from the fender's perspective) +25mm (going from a +48 to a +73, as seen from the fender's point of view). So, that makes a +22 equivalent to a +47 (which I think everyone agrees on). What doesn't come into play is the width of the wheel. Whether the wheel is 10" wide or 8" wide, the offset of the wheel is (effectively) +47 (due to overfenders). Increasing the width of the wheel doesn't add any width to the tire (other than reducing pinch), so the tire remains on a +47 offset (because it's centerline will always match the centerline of the wheel, which is only offset from the hub by (effectively)+47)
For reals, check out the will it fit (or whatever it is from above) website and play with it. Only by changing offsets can you shift the wheel centerline (and therefore tire centerline). As long as tire centerline remains the same (offset) from one wheel to the next, width of the wheel is only relevant in how much stretch or pinch is present.
Adding wheel width doesn't add to offset, it only changes front or back spacing.
(edited for clarity)
#868
RP03s were 17x9.5 +38 with 245/40/17.
And RPF1s were 17x9 +45 with 235/40/17 F and 255/40/17 Rear and 255/40/17 all around.
And for good measure, these are 17x9.5 +35/+40 with 255/40/17.
My apologies for the crappy pic.
#869
Originally Posted by Neutered Sputniks' timestamp='1302575280' post='20455607
[quote name='03supers2k' timestamp='1302569712' post='20455340']
What I'm disagreeing with is this
Your saying 17x9 +48 with 265 is on stock body is the same as what I'm running with over fenders? You wouldn't prob rub at all especially with -4 camber. I'm saying I disagree it would probably be more aggressive, as the 265 adds 5mm more and the 9.5 in rim adds another 6mm which means your running 17x9 +48 w/ -11mm which is 17x9 +37 which would be more similar to the setup so what I'm saying is a 17x9+38 w/ 265 on stock body is equal to what I'm running 17x9.5+22 w/ 265 with overfenders
What I'm disagreeing with is this
Your saying 17x9 +48 with 265 is on stock body is the same as what I'm running with over fenders? You wouldn't prob rub at all especially with -4 camber. I'm saying I disagree it would probably be more aggressive, as the 265 adds 5mm more and the 9.5 in rim adds another 6mm which means your running 17x9 +48 w/ -11mm which is 17x9 +37 which would be more similar to the setup so what I'm saying is a 17x9+38 w/ 265 on stock body is equal to what I'm running 17x9.5+22 w/ 265 with overfenders
If I then add +10mm of offset, the wheel and the tire will shift inward 10mm, and that is done regardless of wheel width. Whether I have a 10" wheel or an 8" wheel, the amount of distance moved due to offset remains the same between the two. Thus, relative to the hub, the wheel (and therefore tire) will sit in the same position if the offsets are the same, regardless of wheel width.
Since the hub and fender are not being adjusted (in this example), the tire itself only shifts in relation to the fender via offset changes, because regardless of wheel width the tire centerline will always rely on wheel offset to shift relative to the hub. So, other than pinching or stretching, the wheel has no effect on the tire's position relative to the fender. (0 wheel offset is always 0 tire offset, regardless of wheel width. That leaves the tire at 0 offset regardless of how stretched or pinched the tire is)
By shifting the fender out +25 with overfenders, it's like increasing wheel offset (from the fender's perspective) +25mm (going from a +48 to a +73, as seen from the fender's point of view). So, that makes a +22 equivalent to a +47 (which I think everyone agrees on). What doesn't come into play is the width of the wheel. Whether the wheel is 10" wide or 8" wide, the offset of the wheel is (effectively) +47 (due to overfenders). Increasing the width of the wheel doesn't add any width to the tire (other than reducing pinch), so the tire remains on a +47 offset (because it's centerline will always match the centerline of the wheel, which is only offset from the hub by (effectively)+47)
For reals, check out the will it fit (or whatever it is from above) website and play with it. Only by changing offsets can you shift the wheel centerline (and therefore tire centerline). As long as tire centerline remains the same (offset) from one wheel to the next, width of the wheel is only relevant in how much stretch or pinch is present.
Adding wheel width doesn't add to offset, it only changes front or back spacing.
(edited for clarity)
[/quote]You're right and wrong, Simmy.
The tire centerline doesn't move between the 9 and 9.5 wheel, so aside from stretch (which I pointed out quite often), the tire itself doesn't shift position in the well (the tread of the tire). You'd be talking about 6mm of stretch at the edge of the wheel, not the tire. So, the bead of the tire may sit 6mm closer to the fender, but it certainly isn't the entire tire, nor even the entire sidewall. That aside, you still cannot add the wheel width difference (divided in half, of course) to the difference in tire width and say that a 265 on a 9.5 will sit 11mm closer to the fender than a 255 on a 9 even if both wheels have the same offset - it's actually closer to 5mm difference (6mm at the wheel) (difference in tire width) because the tires aren't really all that stretched on their respective wheels (sidewalls are nearly parallel with the face of the wheel).
As I stated, quite clearly, aside from stretch/pinch, the tire position doesn't change. So, unless you're worried about the wheel itself not clearing the fender, you shouldn't have any issues. Now, even if you're riding that low, you still don't add the wheel offset to the wheel width nor the wheel width to the difference in tire diameter (which is what I was really explaining).
#870
That's a bit more clear. But I didn't add the tire difference. In my example, I'm using a 255mm tire on both the 9 inch and 9.5 inch wheel. Trust me, from personal experience, a 9+35 with 255/40/17 could clear, but that doesn't mean a 9.5 +35 with 255/40/17 will. This is not at a slammed height either, it was about less than 1/2 inch lower than above.