**Official non-staggered & meaty tires thread**
04-16-2015, 09:15 PM
#3194
Originally Posted by Sebring AP1' timestamp='1429145941' post='23579471
[quote name='KC10S2K' timestamp='1429133185' post='23579242']
Thank you for the advice , all is welcome, I am considering a 17x9 or 17x10 any advice on that ?
Thank you for the advice , all is welcome, I am considering a 17x9 or 17x10 any advice on that ?
1) Address oiling when you do the swap. That means baffle, and sump system. Don't do just the baffle and think you're okay. This chassis can sustain G's that will absolutely grenade your LS1 even on a street tire.
2) Address power level and grip. This means you likely won't end up on a 17" wheel. You will need 18x10+ and some proper rubber (285+) under there if your power goals are anything over 350 wtq which is a joke to make on that block.
3) Address the differential - reinforce it, get a proper driveshaft, and have a proper LSD.
Everything else you'd address for any other S2000 so it's not worth mentioning really.
Good luck, it's going to cost an absolute sh!t-ton to do this swap properly. I bet the car is kickass to drive afterward though. The LS1 should be within ~50 lbs of the F20c. I think they sit further back too so the weight distribution isn't upset much. (Someone correct me here, I'm not sure on this)
I highly doubt it could possibly sit further back than an F20C. And there is no way in hell I would ever do that swap on an S2000 of my own.
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That includes the diff?
I wouldn't do the swap either personally, but I can see why some would.
04-17-2015, 10:11 AM
#3195
Registered User
04-17-2015, 03:21 PM
#3199
Try not to quote a large group of photos like that. Just a basic roll of the front and fender liner trim. And quarter panel roll in the rear. In the pictures that is -2.7 camber F, -3.0 R, car is at around 13" ride height hub to center.
