**Official non-staggered & meaty tires thread**
04-15-2015, 10:32 AM
#3181
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just recently purchased an AP2 S2K The car has over 130k miles and I am considering doing an LS1 swap and turning it into a track car , with the extra power I know I will need larger meat to handle the power. I have done some research (15+hours) reading about the offsets and fender rolling and all that. I am trying to go with a square set up to be able to rotate tires and I think it is just more economical.
I notice a lot of people with the 255 set up I was thinking about going 265/40/17 on all fours , I know I will need to do some fender work to accomplish this (I am currently at a stock ridding hight and might stay that way for a while since I live in PA and will be daily driving the car until I move)
I was thinking the downforce front fenders and not sure yet on the rear (I am guessing I would need an offset of 40 or higher to accomplish this ? And would I need to roll the downforce front fender ? Would rolling the rear fender be enough to get the 265 on stock ride height ?
I notice a lot of people with the 255 set up I was thinking about going 265/40/17 on all fours , I know I will need to do some fender work to accomplish this (I am currently at a stock ridding hight and might stay that way for a while since I live in PA and will be daily driving the car until I move)
I was thinking the downforce front fenders and not sure yet on the rear (I am guessing I would need an offset of 40 or higher to accomplish this ? And would I need to roll the downforce front fender ? Would rolling the rear fender be enough to get the 265 on stock ride height ?
04-15-2015, 11:18 AM
#3182
I just recently purchased an AP2 S2K The car has over 130k miles and I am considering doing an LS1 swap and turning it into a track car , with the extra power I know I will need larger meat to handle the power. I have done some research (15+hours) reading about the offsets and fender rolling and all that. I am trying to go with a square set up to be able to rotate tires and I think it is just more economical.
I notice a lot of people with the 255 set up I was thinking about going 265/40/17 on all fours , I know I will need to do some fender work to accomplish this (I am currently at a stock ridding hight and might stay that way for a while since I live in PA and will be daily driving the car until I move)
I was thinking the downforce front fenders and not sure yet on the rear (I am guessing I would need an offset of 40 or higher to accomplish this ? And would I need to roll the downforce front fender ? Would rolling the rear fender be enough to get the 265 on stock ride height ?
I notice a lot of people with the 255 set up I was thinking about going 265/40/17 on all fours , I know I will need to do some fender work to accomplish this (I am currently at a stock ridding hight and might stay that way for a while since I live in PA and will be daily driving the car until I move)
I was thinking the downforce front fenders and not sure yet on the rear (I am guessing I would need an offset of 40 or higher to accomplish this ? And would I need to roll the downforce front fender ? Would rolling the rear fender be enough to get the 265 on stock ride height ?
My 2 cents:
- 265s are quite fine, just remember that with the taller OD you're throwing off the speedo + making the gears slightly taller. Since you're mentioning the track I'm guessing that's probably not an issue to you.
- For offset, it depends on the width of the wheel to an extent. The biggest thing to remember is that offset determines where the center of the tire will be, so from that perspective I'd recommend right at +50 for 265 width on the track - if you're not planning on running rear overfenders. If you do, it opens up your options considerably.
- You would not need to roll the downforce front fender as they're fiberglass. You may however choose to trim away some of the inner material to give you a little more clearance.
04-15-2015, 01:52 PM
#3184
If you want a 265 for sure, then definitely 17x10. It would be oversquare (pinched) on a 9.
More tire is basically always more grip all else being equal (barring ridiculous pinch), but if you have the choice the wider wheel will give better response.
More tire is basically always more grip all else being equal (barring ridiculous pinch), but if you have the choice the wider wheel will give better response.
04-15-2015, 02:19 PM
#3186
If you're stuck on 17, then the 17x10 choices in higher offset are actually very slim (unfortunately). Then you get into all the discussions on whether you want to run a BBK, if yes then clearance issues, etc...
The best advice I have is to start Googling, and I mean no offense by saying that. The most obvious choice are the most expensive - Volk CE28 in 17x10 +45 (+44 for BBK clearance, cause of the flat face).
If you're willing to go 18 and run 265/35 instead then your options grow considerably, and just bc this is the gallery and it's the non-staggered thread:
The best advice I have is to start Googling, and I mean no offense by saying that. The most obvious choice are the most expensive - Volk CE28 in 17x10 +45 (+44 for BBK clearance, cause of the flat face).
If you're willing to go 18 and run 265/35 instead then your options grow considerably, and just bc this is the gallery and it's the non-staggered thread:
04-15-2015, 04:59 PM
#3189
1) Address oiling when you do the swap. That means baffle, and sump system. Don't do just the baffle and think you're okay. This chassis can sustain G's that will absolutely grenade your LS1 even on a street tire.
2) Address power level and grip. This means you likely won't end up on a 17" wheel. You will need 18x10+ and some proper rubber (285+) under there if your power goals are anything over 350 wtq which is a joke to make on that block.
3) Address the differential - reinforce it, get a proper driveshaft, and have a proper LSD.
Everything else you'd address for any other S2000 so it's not worth mentioning really.
Good luck, it's going to cost an absolute sh!t-ton to do this swap properly. I bet the car is kickass to drive afterward though. The LS1 should be within ~50 lbs of the F20c. I think they sit further back too so the weight distribution isn't upset much. (Someone correct me here, I'm not sure on this)
04-15-2015, 05:42 PM
#3190
Originally Posted by KC10S2K' timestamp='1429133185' post='23579242
Thank you for the advice , all is welcome, I am considering a 17x9 or 17x10 any advice on that ?
1) Address oiling when you do the swap. That means baffle, and sump system. Don't do just the baffle and think you're okay. This chassis can sustain G's that will absolutely grenade your LS1 even on a street tire.
2) Address power level and grip. This means you likely won't end up on a 17" wheel. You will need 18x10+ and some proper rubber (285+) under there if your power goals are anything over 350 wtq which is a joke to make on that block.
3) Address the differential - reinforce it, get a proper driveshaft, and have a proper LSD.
Everything else you'd address for any other S2000 so it's not worth mentioning really.
Good luck, it's going to cost an absolute sh!t-ton to do this swap properly. I bet the car is kickass to drive afterward though. The LS1 should be within ~50 lbs of the F20c. I think they sit further back too so the weight distribution isn't upset much. (Someone correct me here, I'm not sure on this)
I highly doubt it could possibly sit further back than an F20C. And there is no way in hell I would ever do that swap on an S2000 of my own.