UPSTATE CHAT- ongoing conversations
a proper keyboard this Christmas or we could get him this cellphone 
04-15-2011, 08:15 PM
#1053
Former Moderator
it has been a long day. Took the day off as I have some time accrued and figured I'd use it before I lost it.
Got the brake pads changed and the brake fluid flushing done on the Si. I used approximately 600-700ml of brake fluid. Tried Gravity bleeding, but when I cracked open the bleeder fluid was in no hurry to come out. Asked JJ to help me out with the bleeding.
Before I did all that, I timed myself like I promised Jeff I would. If I could not get the car on stands and wheels off in under 20 minutes, I was going to call it quits and send him a PM requesting his help. I was very tempted to request help, and had half a mind to just call Jeff or pay Keeler to do it, but knew that at some point I had to do it myself.
Safety was at the top of my mind over the last month or two when I decided to do this myself. I read several DIY's, watched videos and went through the manuals to familiarize myself with the steps and also identify the tools I'd need. Seeing Jeff and John bleed the brakes on John's car was also a good experience.Been accumulating tools as well. Bought a C-clamp and the little tool for the rear brake piston as well (this was worth more than the money paid).
So I started very well. Wheels were off, front caliper were a breeze - pads out, race pads, greased and in, compressed piston, looked at fluid level, and then finished. Then I moved to the rears and the trouble began. There was one crucial step I overlooked in the FSM. To do the rears on the Si, you have to remove both bolts and pull the caliper out. But in order to do so, you have to remove another bolt that secures the brake line to the hub. First the the bolts on the caliper seemed hard, so I sprayed some WD40 and took a break. Went back out undid the bolts for the caliper and could not figure out why in the world the caliper refused to budge. Went back inside and looked online and found nothing substantial. Went back through the manual and then I found it. One short sentence that asks you to first undo the bolt holding the brake line. Once I did this, it was easy finishing the left rear. Right rear was another nightmare. First it was not easy using the piston retraction tool with the torque wrench I had being too big. I did not have an extension for the little ratchet and now know my life will be easier if I have one. So I turned the piston in by hand using the tool instead of a wrench. Completed everything the bottom bolt refused to tighten. I struggled with this for a bit and then gradually eased it into position and seated the caliper.
Half the job was done, bleeding remained. Got a battery bulb yesterday and used it to extract as much brake fluid as possible from the master cylinder. Poured some brake fluid (around 100 ml) into a brake bleeding bottle and then stuck the tube on the nipple. Cracked open left front and a little fluid seeped out and the pressure was so weak, that I was worried it would travel back and re-enter. Asked JJ to come help and with her using a broom to pump and hold the pedal down, we got the brake bleeding bottle full by the time we were done with all 4 wheels.
Used this bottle for bleeding and fluid came all the way up to the bottom of the cap.
At this point we had gone through one bottle of brake fluid and used the second bottle to top up fluid around three times. There were a few tiny air bubbles but nothing other than that. Got wheels back on the car, set it down, got in and pumped the pedal and then topped up fluid. I then took the car out for two laps around the neighborhood and tested the brakes and hand brake. Not sure if it was the high performance grease supplied by Hawk which was never used in the past by Keeler or Formula H, but the pads were very quiet with no screeching. Will have to see if that lasts though
Emptied the contents of the bleeding bottle and then just to see how fluid I had remaining in the second container, I poured it into the bleeding bottle and it came up to a little over half (around 350ml I'd think).
In my mind, I think the car is ready. Needs an oil change, but I think I'll just take it to Keeler as I also need them to inspect the car and sign-off on the tech form for LRP next weekend.
and hoping I've done a thorough job as I'd hate to have to pump the brakes going through Big Bend next week.
Got the brake pads changed and the brake fluid flushing done on the Si. I used approximately 600-700ml of brake fluid. Tried Gravity bleeding, but when I cracked open the bleeder fluid was in no hurry to come out. Asked JJ to help me out with the bleeding.
Before I did all that, I timed myself like I promised Jeff I would. If I could not get the car on stands and wheels off in under 20 minutes, I was going to call it quits and send him a PM requesting his help. I was very tempted to request help, and had half a mind to just call Jeff or pay Keeler to do it, but knew that at some point I had to do it myself.
Safety was at the top of my mind over the last month or two when I decided to do this myself. I read several DIY's, watched videos and went through the manuals to familiarize myself with the steps and also identify the tools I'd need. Seeing Jeff and John bleed the brakes on John's car was also a good experience.Been accumulating tools as well. Bought a C-clamp and the little tool for the rear brake piston as well (this was worth more than the money paid).
So I started very well. Wheels were off, front caliper were a breeze - pads out, race pads, greased and in, compressed piston, looked at fluid level, and then finished. Then I moved to the rears and the trouble began. There was one crucial step I overlooked in the FSM. To do the rears on the Si, you have to remove both bolts and pull the caliper out. But in order to do so, you have to remove another bolt that secures the brake line to the hub. First the the bolts on the caliper seemed hard, so I sprayed some WD40 and took a break. Went back out undid the bolts for the caliper and could not figure out why in the world the caliper refused to budge. Went back inside and looked online and found nothing substantial. Went back through the manual and then I found it. One short sentence that asks you to first undo the bolt holding the brake line. Once I did this, it was easy finishing the left rear. Right rear was another nightmare. First it was not easy using the piston retraction tool with the torque wrench I had being too big. I did not have an extension for the little ratchet and now know my life will be easier if I have one. So I turned the piston in by hand using the tool instead of a wrench. Completed everything the bottom bolt refused to tighten. I struggled with this for a bit and then gradually eased it into position and seated the caliper.
Half the job was done, bleeding remained. Got a battery bulb yesterday and used it to extract as much brake fluid as possible from the master cylinder. Poured some brake fluid (around 100 ml) into a brake bleeding bottle and then stuck the tube on the nipple. Cracked open left front and a little fluid seeped out and the pressure was so weak, that I was worried it would travel back and re-enter. Asked JJ to come help and with her using a broom to pump and hold the pedal down, we got the brake bleeding bottle full by the time we were done with all 4 wheels.
Used this bottle for bleeding and fluid came all the way up to the bottom of the cap.
At this point we had gone through one bottle of brake fluid and used the second bottle to top up fluid around three times. There were a few tiny air bubbles but nothing other than that. Got wheels back on the car, set it down, got in and pumped the pedal and then topped up fluid. I then took the car out for two laps around the neighborhood and tested the brakes and hand brake. Not sure if it was the high performance grease supplied by Hawk which was never used in the past by Keeler or Formula H, but the pads were very quiet with no screeching. Will have to see if that lasts though
Emptied the contents of the bleeding bottle and then just to see how fluid I had remaining in the second container, I poured it into the bleeding bottle and it came up to a little over half (around 350ml I'd think). In my mind, I think the car is ready. Needs an oil change, but I think I'll just take it to Keeler as I also need them to inspect the car and sign-off on the tech form for LRP next weekend.
and hoping I've done a thorough job as I'd hate to have to pump the brakes going through Big Bend next week.
04-15-2011, 08:25 PM
#1054
Former Moderator
oh! and I have to be truthful about how long I was wrenching. All said and done I started at 11 AM and was done (as in cleaned up garage, all tools back in their place and both cars parked inside by 7:45 PM. This included three 15 minute breaks, and a 30 minute break for lunch. 
Let me face it, I'm never going to make a career out of fixing peoples cars
Let me face it, I'm never going to make a career out of fixing peoples cars
04-16-2011, 04:44 AM
#1057
04-16-2011, 06:15 AM
#1058
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Montgomery, NY
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At least you gained valuable experience and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. It took me 4 or 5 hours to adjust valves on the Civic (I think flat rate is 1.5/2.0) but I enjoyed doing it and felt like I had accomplished something good!
04-16-2011, 09:42 AM
#1059
from the dragon! 
04-16-2011, 09:45 AM
#1060
Get out of the left lane.
Turn down your volume as the f word flies.
I laughed...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKOJJ...layer_embedded
Turn down your volume as the f word flies.
I laughed...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKOJJ...layer_embedded
i lol'd.