Track Days 2023 & 2022 - Lets keep this going
#241
I'm basically finished with my kingpin (or are they more properly called "trunnion") repairs. Locating the swivel links using the workshop manual method left me feeling that the location of the links was rather vague. I could easily see the waisted sections of the kingpin (trunnion?) shaft before inserting the distance tubes, so I'm not sure why one start there and then want to spin the swivel links up and down to find the apparent mid section of this wasted area. In the end, I located the assembly with these measurements. Overall end to end length: 11 3/4"; bottom of top link to top of knuckle: 5 5/8"; bottom of bottom link to bottom of knuckle: 4 3/8". Both sides are essentially the same, and everything turns, so I figure I'm good to go. Appropriate distances are not published. Published torque specs are absent as well. By my sketchy memory, I probably torqued the pivot rods: passenger side 40 ft lbs; driver’s side 30 ft lbs; steering arm to knuckle: passenger side 60 ft lbs; driver’s side 50 ft lbs; tie rod ends: 40 ft lbs. I still have to tighten up the nuts on the A-Arm pivot shaft once I bounce the car on the suspension a few times.
I used this opportunity to install slightly longer A-Arms (wishbones?) so I should now have maybe 2-3 degrees of negative camber built in in the front end.
It took me about 4 hours to pull the engine on Tuesday and early yesterday. Now I need to decide what to do about the hole in the oil pan - try to repair or replace. The problem is that the pan has a very nice windage tray built in.
I also need to repair the alternator and decide what to do about returning to the old, original exhaust system.
I'm really tired but need to push on in order to be able to race over labor day weekend.
I used this opportunity to install slightly longer A-Arms (wishbones?) so I should now have maybe 2-3 degrees of negative camber built in in the front end.
It took me about 4 hours to pull the engine on Tuesday and early yesterday. Now I need to decide what to do about the hole in the oil pan - try to repair or replace. The problem is that the pan has a very nice windage tray built in.
I also need to repair the alternator and decide what to do about returning to the old, original exhaust system.
I'm really tired but need to push on in order to be able to race over labor day weekend.
#242
Former Moderator
Thread Starter
I hear you Jeff. Hang in there. This is supposed to be fun so do what you can at your pace.
In Dallas in 100 degree weather. Won’t have time to prep the car when I’m back so taking it to Seamus and also getting a ride height adjustment in addition to alignment and some other maintenance.
In Dallas in 100 degree weather. Won’t have time to prep the car when I’m back so taking it to Seamus and also getting a ride height adjustment in addition to alignment and some other maintenance.
#243
My current dilemma. I think I found the "leak". If you will all recall, I was getting a milky mix of oil and water under my valve cover, did a major pressure test without finding any problem and used some Bart's Stop Leak with what appeared to be a satisfactory result.
But having pulled the engine 1) to fix the oil pan and inspect the oil pump and 2) to return to my original exhaust set up, I found that I have oil leaking from the 4th hole for the manifold studs (i.e., 4th from the front). This hole is directly below a hole for the head studs. This did not seem to be leaking when the manifold stud was in place, but started weeping once I pulled the exhaust and the manifold studs. Initially I felt it was an oil leak, but now I blew it out with air pressure and it also seemed wet - as in water. Theoretically, this all could have occurred when I was pressure testing the system, but ...
What to do? The lazy me wants to ignore it, replace the engine and hope for the best. But, I'm convincing myself that I should swap out the head. I don't want to do it, but I have a spare head gasket ... It's do or die!
But having pulled the engine 1) to fix the oil pan and inspect the oil pump and 2) to return to my original exhaust set up, I found that I have oil leaking from the 4th hole for the manifold studs (i.e., 4th from the front). This hole is directly below a hole for the head studs. This did not seem to be leaking when the manifold stud was in place, but started weeping once I pulled the exhaust and the manifold studs. Initially I felt it was an oil leak, but now I blew it out with air pressure and it also seemed wet - as in water. Theoretically, this all could have occurred when I was pressure testing the system, but ...
What to do? The lazy me wants to ignore it, replace the engine and hope for the best. But, I'm convincing myself that I should swap out the head. I don't want to do it, but I have a spare head gasket ... It's do or die!
#244
39 MGBs, MGAs, Migets and MGTDs in my run group for the Historic Festival. That's a big field. I hope we can get some racing in without dozens of yellow and black flags.
#245
I pulled the head.
On the engine block, the #2 piston appeared suspect. #2 piston (and #3 piston to a lesser degree) had a gummy layer of carbon buildup, more than #1 or #4. #2 piston also had a dime sized rust spot right in the center of the piston. #2 piston shows evidence of what I suspect to be detonation damage – an apparent erosion on the face of the piston. I can see it more than I can feel it. Cleaned up and started with the spare Max Fulton head.
Thought about that odd rust spot on #2, so this morning, I looked at the combustion chambers. Something just doesn't look riught.
On the engine block, the #2 piston appeared suspect. #2 piston (and #3 piston to a lesser degree) had a gummy layer of carbon buildup, more than #1 or #4. #2 piston also had a dime sized rust spot right in the center of the piston. #2 piston shows evidence of what I suspect to be detonation damage – an apparent erosion on the face of the piston. I can see it more than I can feel it. Cleaned up and started with the spare Max Fulton head.
Thought about that odd rust spot on #2, so this morning, I looked at the combustion chambers. Something just doesn't look riught.
#248
Got the car running yesterday. But I had a manifold leak, so I had to pull the carbs and exhaust - then relocate the exhaust slightly. I think the original problem was the exhaust bumping against one of the jack stands, so it didn't go on straight. I have that back together, but need to tune and time. Also still need to string align the front end.
#249
The MGA #645 is almost ready to go. The car has an "aggressive new stance" and I did a string alignment yesterday. I just hope the car will go down the track in a straight line and that it will turn in when I reach a corner.
Today I shopped for some paint and took the bonnet with me. Maybe I got a close color. Now I just need to replace the bonnet, find the car keys, relocate the microphones and charge the cameras.
Today I shopped for some paint and took the bonnet with me. Maybe I got a close color. Now I just need to replace the bonnet, find the car keys, relocate the microphones and charge the cameras.
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A 2 (08-24-2023)