A 2

That’s amazing Jeff. It never ceases to amaze me how skilled you and a few others are.

blueosprey90

I won't be able to start reassembling the engine until I clean the basement - which means putting away several unfinished projects, piles of tools and sanitizing the work area (sort of).

The returned engine block is impressively clean and one would never know that the #1 bore it has been sleeved by looking at it.

Photo of #1 bore damage - before:





Photo of #1 bore - after sleeving, with eyebrows and with cross hatching from machine shop





And a photo of the block. I guess they skimmed the deck to eliminate any variance caused by the sleeve in bore #1

A 2

That looks very well machined. Hoping it makes the engine run well for next season.

is this a local shop you used Jeff? Or did you ship it to Hap Waldrop?

blueosprey90

Painted the block and pan. Perhaps premature, but it looked as if the block had been hot tanked by the machine shop. I had the opportunity and decided to paint while it was still rather clean.





Before work this morning, I chased, chamfered and cleaned the bolt threads in the block.

A 2

I like that Jeff. It looks nice.

blueosprey90

No meaningful progress.

The machine shop called and advised that the new collets and retainers for the 18 head do not fit. As such, I decided to strip a spare head and bring the parts in so he could finish the project.



The 18 head is for my spare engine, which is the engine currently in the car. The plan is that I will assemble the 1600 ghost main engine, pull the 1800 engine out of the car, pull the head off of the 1800 engine and install on the 1600 engine, fix the cam timing on the 1800 engine, install the rebuilt head and move the 1800 engine into storage in the barn where I rent. Somewhere in the process, I'm also going to try to swap transmissions.

Other than that, I did get the block mounted on the engine stand.

blueosprey90

Try to do a little something every day before work.

Today, I pulled oil galley plugs, cleaned and blew out galleys and replaced.

The female treads for the oil line fitting at the rear of the engine may be knackered. This old fitting didn't want to screw in - and it is not galley plug interference. This fitting has always been "difficult". I have a new fitting buried in one of my boxes, but I think I need to chase the female threads. Have to determine the size and thread count.

blueosprey90

Painfully slow, tedious lack of progress.

Mostly spent the New Year's holiday measuring.

Plan is the reuse the old thrust washers. Crankshaft end float measured at 0.003.5"

Previous measurement of thrust washers in 2018 by caliper was .091.0". This time I measured by micrometer and came up with .092.5" . I think stock should be .091.5"


Measured the bores. The #2 bore is a little bit out of round with a measured variance of up to 0.001".




I think I decided to use the new piston set. Piston weight measured by Venolia at 345 grams, On my scale each piston weighed 344 grams; each wrist pin weighted 74 grams; total weight = 418 grams.




Spent considerable time measuring and "adjusting" the rings - and I still have the oil scraper rings to set. According to the Total Seal Piston Rings instructions / formula, I calculate the recommended ring gap to be .013.6". But I'm so afraid that that is too tight - no room for error. So, I'm setting the ring gaps in the range of .017" to .019". A little tighter than previously.

blueosprey90

I had taken the spare 18 head to the machine shop for new valve seats as the valves were a bit recessed.



I thought it was a piece of jewelry when I picked it up yesterday. The shop did some chamber clean up and porting that I did not expect.





I assume the white stuff on the valve where it exits the valve guide in the above photo is lubricant.

A 2

Wow, that looks really nice and shiny. Hoping the machinist did it right