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I was told I'd receive my pads on Monday and that a tracking number and invoice will be emailed once the product shipped.
When I called on Friday, I was told the pads would be shipping and my card would be charged once they shipped. I got a notice that I was charged by the credit card company but no emails from G-Loc with invoice and tracking. I left them a voicemail on Friday evening, Monday evening and on Tuesday at noon. I then sent an email and was sent a tracking number. I checked and the pads had been delivered at home.
The 1 day delay could also be potentially due to Harvey. The pads look well engineered. No grease supplied nor instructions on how to bed the pads in although the box said instructions would be inside the box.
I sent them an email asking how I should bed the pads in and if I can use any grease. I got an email back with instructions.
So based on my experience, it seems like they are experiencing growing pains and are struggling to get all the orders out. A bit of patient follow up is recommended as they seem to respond back well via email.
I hope they ramp up in the sales and customer service area. If they do, then I'll likely be a customer for a long time. If however these minor issues persist, then I know for a fact that they can lead towards a company winding down in due course. I'm hoping they are here to stay though. Seem like nice people based on the interaction I've had and I am willing to put with some of their teething issues.
COM posted a season update on Facebook. Take a bow Shiv. Super proud to see how well you've progressed and hoping you'll work your way up to wheel to wheel racing.
Update on G-Loc.
No grease supplied nor instructions on how to bed the pads in although the box said instructions would be inside the box.
What did they tell you about grease/bedding? Mine came in similar condition. I used the backing plates off my old EBCs and greased between the pads/backing plate/caliper like I normally would, but no idea if this is proper or not.
What did they tell you about grease/bedding? Mine came in similar condition. I used the backing plates off my old EBCs and greased between the pads/backing plate/caliper like I normally would, but no idea if this is proper or not.
Didn't you pay for bedding? You shouldn't have to bed the pads in.
As far as backing plates (shims), I have been going shimless for a while now. Danny said I can use any brake pad grease. His email to me follows re. grease and bedding.
You can use whatever grease you want, just do not get it on the friction material side of the brake pad. I would go out and slow down aggressively from 80mph to 20mph about a dozen times. Then go and park the car for a couple of hours.
Didn't you pay for bedding? You shouldn't have to bed the pads in.
As far as backing plates (shims), I have been going shimless for a while now. Danny said I can use any brake pad grease. His email to me follows re. grease and bedding.
You still need to bed the pads even if you had them "pre-bedded". The pre-bed process usually just heats the pads several times to release some of the gases that are released during the first several heat cycles. But you still need to bed them to the rotor, in that process some pad material is transferred onto the rotor and remains there. Once bedding is completed (if done correctly) pad material is on the rotor for the remainder of the pad life. This best done on a NEW or freshly cut rotor. If its not done correctly (at the track or during a race) then the pad material is transferred uneven and it causes vibration which feels pretty bad on the track.
Didn't you pay for bedding? You shouldn't have to bed the pads in.
As far as backing plates (shims), I have been going shimless for a while now. Danny said I can use any brake pad grease. His email to me follows re. grease and bedding.
Yup - I paid for the pre bedding. I was more curious about the grease & shims. I typically grease the back of the pads where the caliper touches plus the "ears" where the pads ride on the caliper brackets. I`m not sure if any of it is necessary, just something that I've always done.
Originally Posted by s200059
You still need to bed the pads even if you had them "pre-bedded". The pre-bed process usually just heats the pads several times to release some of the gases that are released during the first several heat cycles. But you still need to bed them to the rotor, in that process some pad material is transferred onto the rotor and remains there. Once bedding is completed (if done correctly) pad material is on the rotor for the remainder of the pad life. This best done on a NEW or freshly cut rotor. If its not done correctly (at the track or during a race) then the pad material is transferred uneven and it causes vibration which feels pretty bad on the track.
Good to know, thanks. Does this take the same 80-20 stops that A2 described? Or just some time driving on the street/highway before really working them on the track? I`ll have a 4 hour drive to Club on Thursday and I assumed that would be enough.
I installed on rotors that were turned ~3 years ago. I knocked the surface rust off and threw em on.
Yup - I paid for the pre bedding. I was more curious about the grease & shims. I typically grease the back of the pads where the caliper touches plus the "ears" where the pads ride on the caliper brackets. I`m not sure if any of it is necessary, just something that I've always done.
Good to know, thanks. Does this take the same 80-20 stops that A2 described? Or just some time driving on the street/highway before really working them on the track? I`ll have a 4 hour drive to Club on Thursday and I assumed that would be enough.
I installed on rotors that were turned ~3 years ago. I knocked the surface rust off and threw em on.
YES - follow A2's instruction. Street driving does not put an even layer of pad material onto the rotors and you do not do threshold braking on the street (at least I do not). If you choose not to bed using A2 directions then you may not get the required pad material onto the rotor, then once on track you will in essence bed them by default. Results vary with this method but you paid a lot for the pad and a lot for your track time - so why not do it the right way.
Really looking forward to hearing your report on the G loc pads. You should then hop in my car to see what notable differences there are compared to carbos.
Also Greg, one of these days im gonna start pestering you with questions regarding supercharging
08-30-2017, 05:23 AM
