Who has a code reader
#1
Thread Starter
Who has a code reader
After installing the ziptech simulator
my car got an instant CEL light.
but even after removing the simulator I still have it and my car wont rev past 3,000
Im located in Medford if you have one.
my cel # is 516-319-1650
thanks
my car got an instant CEL light.
but even after removing the simulator I still have it and my car wont rev past 3,000
Im located in Medford if you have one.
my cel # is 516-319-1650
thanks
#2
after taking it out, you could simply reset the ECU by pulling a fuse out. I think it's #3 but please search the forum for resetting ECU or check library. hope it helps.
#4
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I dont understand why you would reset the ECU before checking the code. Goto any mechanic shop and have them read it for you. Most places do it for free if you play along like you're gonna have them do the repair work. Just take down the error # and then verify over here what the code is.
#5
Rasheed, I understand you know a lot. for that, I agree that you should check the code before making the fix. If I was at mechanic's shop, I would 've done the same, checking the code first.
But if I wasn't in the shop, my car won't run, and I restored to original setting, I'd rest the ecu to get to the shop at least. then I'll try to relicate the problem to fix it.
instead of towing it to the shop, I found this method easier and less costly.
But if I wasn't in the shop, my car won't run, and I restored to original setting, I'd rest the ecu to get to the shop at least. then I'll try to relicate the problem to fix it.
instead of towing it to the shop, I found this method easier and less costly.
#7
Thread Starter
Originally posted by kane.s2k
I dont understand why you would reset the ECU before checking the code. Goto any mechanic shop and have them read it for you. Most places do it for free if you play along like you're gonna have them do the repair work. Just take down the error # and then verify over here what the code is.
I dont understand why you would reset the ECU before checking the code. Goto any mechanic shop and have them read it for you. Most places do it for free if you play along like you're gonna have them do the repair work. Just take down the error # and then verify over here what the code is.
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#8
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yes, but there are times where the CEL wont come on again for maybe a month or so no matter how hard you try to replicate it. I'm talking out of experience on this one. It's best to check and get the CEL while you can. You can drive it even with a 3,000 rpm rev limiter with no problems to a mechanic shop or even cruise on the highway for a while to get to Bill's shop without a problem.
A 3k rev limit will get you to where ever you need to go. You dont need to hit vtec to get to a mechanics shop
Worst case scenario for a CEL that's been cleared for the time being. CEL erased, driving around for a while because you dont see a CEL and you figure it wont come back so you'll delay your trip to the mechanic. Drive around, it's 1am and there's a storm and it's pouring like crazy outside. CEL comes on again but this time, the problem got wayyyyyyyyyy worse than before and your motor stops running all together. So now, you're outside in the rain stuck in the middle of no where when all you had to do was check the CEL originally and it would have been a cheap and easy repair. <----This was a true story and it cost $150 in towing and $800 for a new motor from the junkyard plus labor on top of that.
You can do whatever you want. Dont check the CEL right away and clear it. I know I will not ever drive my car with a CEL and then just erase it to check it some other time. The ECU wont show a CEL for no reason. Only for major offsets that it's not suppose to get to. Believe me when I say the stock ECU gives a lot of leeway before actually showing the malfunction indicator light.
Oh, I know I'm gonna hear something like "well, my CEL did come back right away...etc etc blah blah." Obviously I was trying to make a point and not actually referring to you and your problem. BTW, to get the rev limiter from a O2 sensor malfunction is almost impossible. It's something else that's major I think. Especially the fact that the ECU will lower it to 3k and not even 4,5,6k tells me that it's not just something to ignore.
A 3k rev limit will get you to where ever you need to go. You dont need to hit vtec to get to a mechanics shop
Worst case scenario for a CEL that's been cleared for the time being. CEL erased, driving around for a while because you dont see a CEL and you figure it wont come back so you'll delay your trip to the mechanic. Drive around, it's 1am and there's a storm and it's pouring like crazy outside. CEL comes on again but this time, the problem got wayyyyyyyyyy worse than before and your motor stops running all together. So now, you're outside in the rain stuck in the middle of no where when all you had to do was check the CEL originally and it would have been a cheap and easy repair. <----This was a true story and it cost $150 in towing and $800 for a new motor from the junkyard plus labor on top of that.
You can do whatever you want. Dont check the CEL right away and clear it. I know I will not ever drive my car with a CEL and then just erase it to check it some other time. The ECU wont show a CEL for no reason. Only for major offsets that it's not suppose to get to. Believe me when I say the stock ECU gives a lot of leeway before actually showing the malfunction indicator light.
Oh, I know I'm gonna hear something like "well, my CEL did come back right away...etc etc blah blah." Obviously I was trying to make a point and not actually referring to you and your problem. BTW, to get the rev limiter from a O2 sensor malfunction is almost impossible. It's something else that's major I think. Especially the fact that the ECU will lower it to 3k and not even 4,5,6k tells me that it's not just something to ignore.
#9
Thread Starter
[QUOTE]Originally posted by kane.s2k
yes, but there are times where the CEL wont come on again for maybe a month or so no matter how hard you try to replicate it. I'm talking out of experience on this one. It's best to check and get the CEL while you can. You can drive it even with a 3,000 rpm rev limiter with no problems to a mechanic shop or even cruise on the highway for a while to get to Bill's shop without a problem.
A 3k rev limit will get you to where ever you need to go. You dont need to hit vtec to get to a mechanics shop
Worst case scenario for a CEL that's been cleared for the time being. CEL erased, driving around for a while because you dont see a CEL and you figure it wont come back so you'll delay your trip to the mechanic. Drive around, it's 1am and there's a storm and it's pouring like crazy outside. CEL comes on again but this time, the problem got wayyyyyyyyyy worse than before and your motor stops running all together. So now, you're outside in the rain stuck in the middle of no where when all you had to do was check the CEL originally and it would have been a cheap and easy repair.
yes, but there are times where the CEL wont come on again for maybe a month or so no matter how hard you try to replicate it. I'm talking out of experience on this one. It's best to check and get the CEL while you can. You can drive it even with a 3,000 rpm rev limiter with no problems to a mechanic shop or even cruise on the highway for a while to get to Bill's shop without a problem.
A 3k rev limit will get you to where ever you need to go. You dont need to hit vtec to get to a mechanics shop
Worst case scenario for a CEL that's been cleared for the time being. CEL erased, driving around for a while because you dont see a CEL and you figure it wont come back so you'll delay your trip to the mechanic. Drive around, it's 1am and there's a storm and it's pouring like crazy outside. CEL comes on again but this time, the problem got wayyyyyyyyyy worse than before and your motor stops running all together. So now, you're outside in the rain stuck in the middle of no where when all you had to do was check the CEL originally and it would have been a cheap and easy repair.
#10
yep. I had that problem as well. when the kick panel was open, car was running fine. but every time I close the kick pannel, car wouldn't rev over 3,000 rpm. your symptom really resembled mine but I wasn't sure if you had vafc with POS harness. for me, I ended up re-soldering wires. after that, no issues. cheers,
ps. you really do have similar set up as I do...
ps. you really do have similar set up as I do...