slates74

Alright guys, here's a little timeline of what I've gone through this weekend.

Problem 1: Car is throwing random misfire codes and idling rough.

Solution: Replaced plugs, coils, fuel injectors

Problem 2: While test driving car after above work was complete car is idling well and pulling nicely until vtec engagement point then just pulling with out any punch and seemingly running out of breath somewhere near 8200rpm and up. Running OBD2 scanner and get code P1259/

Solution: None yet

Problem 3: Car begins not cranking over very strong while starting, also if you let off the gas the car will die. I ordered an alternator to see if this is the reason why.

Solution: None yet

Problem 4: Noticed coolant leak beneath car. Haven't identified the source yet

Solution: Praying it's a loose clamp or something along those lines.

Billman250

Why would you order an alternator...did you test it?

Changing a bunch of parts will break you quickly. You would have been better off having the car diagnosed, and replace the one faulty part.

First things first, you need to rid the car of the P1259.

Davizzle

that code is vtec failure....

check oil levels i think low oil can cause that code

slammed ap1

bring it to billman

orangebarius

ok first i say go fix that coolant leak. then find the vtec problem. check your oil level. if its not that, then it maybe your vtec solenoid.

slates74

Ok I checked it out and the oil level was low. I topped it off, Reset the code via the OBD2 reader and went out and tried driving again. Once again the car doesn't have it's usual strength at 6k+ and at 8XXXrpm it seemed a rev limiter or fuel cut came in and then the CEL came back on.

As far as the coolant leak I've fixed that it was just a loose clamp.

In regards to the battery/idle it seems to have gone back to normal, maybe the car needed to be driven to get some charge back in the system?

slates74

As far as bringing it to Billman I'd love to but I think there is a pretty lengthy waiting list. Otherwise I'd drive out there tonight.

orangebarius

id imagine you let car warm up to 3 bars on the temp gauge before you tried to hit vtec? if you did, then it could be your vtec solenoid.

i know jeff (minitoyota - the guy you bought the coil packs from) has a vtec problem, but he is turbo. he has an extra vtec solenoid that he is selling. he bought it to try and solve his vtec problem, but it didnt help. he is boosted, so his problem is harder to diagnose and it maybe different from yours. he cant pull engine codes since he runs AEM EMS.

maybe talk to him and see if your symptoms are similiar to his. maybe he can give you some insight on this problem.

Davizzle

i agree i think its your vtec solenoid.

Billman250

VTEC is dependent on many factors....I can almost guarantee the VTEC valve is not the problem.