talk me out of it or into it!
06-24-2010 | 05:26 AM
#23
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From: The 603
Originally Posted by Bass,Jun 14 2010, 03:03 PM
nothing for nothing but a 10 year old S with 120k is not in excellent condition...
maybe you'll get 8 for it
maybe you'll get 8 for it
I have seen 2004s with half the milage that look 2x older then mine because they were drivin in the snow and neglected in general, the frames and bodys are already starting to rust on these 4 year newer cars with way less milage.
People still ask me what kind of car i am driving and if it is brand new.
8k wouldnt be worth selling it. I have seen damaged s2k selling for that price. this one comes to mind
clicky
06-24-2010 | 05:29 AM
#24
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From: The 603
Originally Posted by Legal Bill,Jun 14 2010, 03:13 PM
The kind of boat you have in the link is a family/ski boat. They are good for lakes and bays. The inboard/outboard is relatively inexpensive to maintain. The key here is to make sure everything is in good shape to begin with. A new engine will cost you about $5 to 6K installed, so have it checked out and make sure it is all good. Outdrives are pricey too. About $4K for a new one. You can get rebuilt engines and outdrives and they work pretty well and cost much less. Whatever you are looking at, make sure it is in good shape before you buy. Buy from a long time owner if possible and get all the receipts.
If you can do your own work, the boat you listed would be quite inexpensive to maintain as the engine is a basic car engine. Given our short season, you only need one oil change a year. I always change the plugs and cap every year too. The outdrives should get the oil changed every year and the water pump changed every other year. About every five years you need to change the interruptor switch.
If you are going in salt water, figure on an annual budget of about $1500 for regular maintenance and repairs. Some years it will be less, and others it will be more. Fresh water is much less.
Buy an extra prop and the tool to change it. New boat owners f-up all the time and break their propellors going into shallow waters. Take a saftey course so you don't kill someone and make the owner take you out and show you how to operate the thing. Don't try to learn on your own.
Buy as new as possible. Get an engine with fuel injection rather than a carburettor. Check the hours. You can get boats with under 300 hours all day long for real good money. Try to buy a boat that lived its life on a lake if you can. The salt is quite severe.
Make sure the trailer is in top condition too. Kinda sucks to have the trailer wheel fall off on the way to the lake. Insurance shouldn't be too bad, but you do need it.
Plan on spending $3-4000 a year on maintenance, expenses and gas and you should be ok. Don't bother to buy a boat if you are the kind of person who gets pissed off at spending money on repairs and expenses. The whole experience will just aggravate you and you will end up being one of those people who goes around saying stuff like "a boat is a hole in the water that you throw money into."
If you can do your own work, the boat you listed would be quite inexpensive to maintain as the engine is a basic car engine. Given our short season, you only need one oil change a year. I always change the plugs and cap every year too. The outdrives should get the oil changed every year and the water pump changed every other year. About every five years you need to change the interruptor switch.
If you are going in salt water, figure on an annual budget of about $1500 for regular maintenance and repairs. Some years it will be less, and others it will be more. Fresh water is much less.
Buy an extra prop and the tool to change it. New boat owners f-up all the time and break their propellors going into shallow waters. Take a saftey course so you don't kill someone and make the owner take you out and show you how to operate the thing. Don't try to learn on your own.
Buy as new as possible. Get an engine with fuel injection rather than a carburettor. Check the hours. You can get boats with under 300 hours all day long for real good money. Try to buy a boat that lived its life on a lake if you can. The salt is quite severe.
Make sure the trailer is in top condition too. Kinda sucks to have the trailer wheel fall off on the way to the lake. Insurance shouldn't be too bad, but you do need it.
Plan on spending $3-4000 a year on maintenance, expenses and gas and you should be ok. Don't bother to buy a boat if you are the kind of person who gets pissed off at spending money on repairs and expenses. The whole experience will just aggravate you and you will end up being one of those people who goes around saying stuff like "a boat is a hole in the water that you throw money into."
I should probably take you up on one of your boat outings.
Im fairly certain I am going to sell the S now in favor of a boat. probably spend 60% of my cars value on the boat and keep the other 40% in a maintence/repair fund. i figure if i supplement that fund regularly i wont be too p-oed when an expsensive repair happens.
On that note, I am starting to list the car. check the lounge
06-24-2010 | 05:49 AM
#25
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From: Franklin MA
Originally Posted by 2000silvers2k,Jun 24 2010, 09:26 AM
..
we all think our cars are in mint condition BUT for a used car to be considered MINT it means one buys it from a dealership drive it off the lot and turn around and drive it back in for a trade in.
or a collector's car that sat in a garage and never driven
100k is a LOT of miles - did you change the engine, drive train, suspension to all new oem parts?
plus a car (any car with 100k) will have chips / nicks / dings / faded paint / rust and typical wear from use. as well as other imperfections.
for a car to be considered MINT all these need removed / restored to new car condition
heck i hope you get thirty grand for it - i do. but the word MINT is very subjective when selling / trading a used car
06-24-2010 | 05:56 AM
#26
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 39,285
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From: Franklin MA
from KBB but i am sure you looked at this
Excellent
Looks new, is in excellent mechanical condition and needs no reconditioning.
Never had any paint or body work and is free of rust.
Clean title history and will pass a smog and safety inspection.
Engine compartment is clean, with no fluid leaks and is free of any wear or visible defects.
Complete and verifiable service records.
Less than 5% of all used vehicles fall into this category.
Condition Value
Excellent
$8,265
Good
$7,690
Fair
$6,715
from NADA -
Pricing Rough
Trade-In Average
Trade-In Clean
Trade-In Clean
Retail
Base Price $5,350 $6,550 $7,525 $9,900
Mileage: 100,000 $750 $750 $750 $750
Excellent
Looks new, is in excellent mechanical condition and needs no reconditioning.
Never had any paint or body work and is free of rust.
Clean title history and will pass a smog and safety inspection.
Engine compartment is clean, with no fluid leaks and is free of any wear or visible defects.
Complete and verifiable service records.
Less than 5% of all used vehicles fall into this category.
Condition Value
Excellent
$8,265
Good
$7,690
Fair
$6,715
from NADA -
Pricing Rough
Trade-In Average
Trade-In Clean
Trade-In Clean
Retail
Base Price $5,350 $6,550 $7,525 $9,900
Mileage: 100,000 $750 $750 $750 $750
06-24-2010 | 05:59 AM
#27
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From: The 603
Originally Posted by Bass,Jun 24 2010, 08:49 AM
it was not mean as an insult
we all think our cars are in mint condition BUT for a used car to be considered MINT it means one buys it from a dealership drive it off the lot and turn around and drive it back in for a trade in.
or a collector's car that sat in a garage and never driven
100k is a LOT of miles - did you change the engine, drive train, suspension to all new oem parts?
plus a car (any car with 100k) will have chips / nicks / dings / faded paint / rust and typical wear from use. as well as other imperfections.
for a car to be considered MINT all these need removed / restored to new car condition
heck i hope you get thirty grand for it - i do. but the word MINT is very subjective when selling / trading a used car
we all think our cars are in mint condition BUT for a used car to be considered MINT it means one buys it from a dealership drive it off the lot and turn around and drive it back in for a trade in.
or a collector's car that sat in a garage and never driven
100k is a LOT of miles - did you change the engine, drive train, suspension to all new oem parts?
plus a car (any car with 100k) will have chips / nicks / dings / faded paint / rust and typical wear from use. as well as other imperfections.
for a car to be considered MINT all these need removed / restored to new car condition
heck i hope you get thirty grand for it - i do. but the word MINT is very subjective when selling / trading a used car
it may not be mint, but its probably one of the cleanest s20090s of that age and mileage.
06-24-2010 | 06:00 AM
#28
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: The 603
Originally Posted by Bass,Jun 24 2010, 08:56 AM
from KBB but i am sure you looked at this
Excellent
Looks new, is in excellent mechanical condition and needs no reconditioning.
Never had any paint or body work and is free of rust.
Clean title history and will pass a smog and safety inspection.
Engine compartment is clean, with no fluid leaks and is free of any wear or visible defects.
Complete and verifiable service records.
Less than 5% of all used vehicles fall into this category.
Condition Value
Excellent
$8,265
Good
$7,690
Fair
$6,715
from NADA -
Pricing Rough
Trade-In Average
Trade-In Clean
Trade-In Clean
Retail
Base Price $5,350 $6,550 $7,525 $9,900
Mileage: 100,000 $750 $750 $750 $750
Excellent
Looks new, is in excellent mechanical condition and needs no reconditioning.
Never had any paint or body work and is free of rust.
Clean title history and will pass a smog and safety inspection.
Engine compartment is clean, with no fluid leaks and is free of any wear or visible defects.
Complete and verifiable service records.
Less than 5% of all used vehicles fall into this category.
Condition Value
Excellent
$8,265
Good
$7,690
Fair
$6,715
from NADA -
Pricing Rough
Trade-In Average
Trade-In Clean
Trade-In Clean
Retail
Base Price $5,350 $6,550 $7,525 $9,900
Mileage: 100,000 $750 $750 $750 $750
06-24-2010 | 06:42 AM
#29
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 32,530
Likes: 4,152
From: bolton
value is derived from remaining useful miles or collector appeal.
At 120K, you'd have to assume higher repair costs simply becuase you are at that point in the vehicle life-cycle.
collector appeal probably won't kick in for another 10 years.
And these aren't ferrari models where there were only 500 made.
I'd like it not to be so but...
while it's not for me though, if your heart is set on a boat go for it.
At 120K, you'd have to assume higher repair costs simply becuase you are at that point in the vehicle life-cycle.
collector appeal probably won't kick in for another 10 years.
And these aren't ferrari models where there were only 500 made.
I'd like it not to be so but...
while it's not for me though, if your heart is set on a boat go for it.
06-24-2010 | 07:52 AM
#30
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 6,062
Likes: 214
From: New Milford, CT
But recently i have been very seriously contemplating selling my s2k and buying a decent used boat.
I haven't read the entire thread, BUTI have a 1950's Redfin bay boat, about 18 feet long. Needs a motor and interior and the fittings need to be replated, etc. So it is a project boat, but the fiberglass hull appears quite sound, and the boat is complete. The boat is free if you or anyone want it.
Last registered in 1990 and has been under a roof since then.
I've just sold the property and will need to get rid of the boat as I don't have time to restore. The trailer is shot.
And if you were willing to pay $225, I'd sell a 1956 +/- electric start Evinrude Big Twin 25hp motor that I bought for another vintage boat. Last summer I replaced the points and coils and cleaned the carburetor so I'm pretty sure it will run.
The point of all this is that you wouldn't have to get rid of the car if you want to put some sweat equity into a project boat. I'm not a big believer in spending big money on boats. One reason I originally acquired this boat was that I didn't think it would cost that much to get seaworthy. I think for less than $2,500 (assuming you can rent or borrow a trailer) and a few months time, you could be on the water.
So I fall into the "Don't Do It!" camp.