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Shifting problem.

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Old 07-13-2009, 06:27 PM
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Default Shifting problem.

Just wondering if anyone else has had an issue like this before i start spending money where i don't need to.

Anyway the other night my car was driving normal. I parked it in the garage and the next day i take it out and its hard to get into all the gears. Also some times the gears clunk And while in first with the pedal pressed down the car wanted to move forward for a second.
So i flushed my clutch master cylinder (all black and nasty fluid almost looked like metal flakes in it) and bled the line. Also changed tranny fluid and rear diff fluid. Now if i shift at low rpm's its fine but if i rev high rpms it does it again.

So i'm thinking clutch,slave cylinder,master cylinder and hopefully not tranny. Im prob gonna replace the slave and master cylinder first and if still have issue replace clutch ughh ....


Any thoughts?
Old 07-13-2009, 06:29 PM
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Ps. If i press really hard on the clutch pedal and put into gear fast it works perfect also??????????????????? stumped lol
Old 07-13-2009, 06:34 PM
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what fluid did you put in the tranny?
Old 07-13-2009, 06:52 PM
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GM
Old 07-13-2009, 07:00 PM
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although that should be ok for the first 500 miles, try swapping it out to the honda mtf.
Old 07-13-2009, 07:00 PM
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i use oem Honda never had any probs with it.
Old 07-13-2009, 07:37 PM
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had honda mtf in there. Its not that great ya know.
Old 07-14-2009, 03:39 AM
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When you were bleeding it did you push the slave in by hand to bleed the slave ?


My Favorite fluid was the GM . But it is not the stuff everyone advertises here on the board . The stuff I use cam in a bottle like gear oil and was $21 each . Not sure what you used ?
Old 07-14-2009, 04:28 AM
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I've been running the Synchromesh FM since Scott changed out the factory fluid which was back in 2005 and it was great. Never popped out of gear, very rarely had the 3rd gear grind (only on really cold mornings, after my first 3rd gear shift if I was too quick) and was overall a very slick gearbox. Really good stuff.

I believe since then, Honda has reformulated their own mtf which I have been running since April and it's just as slick as the SM.

Sorry to stray from the OP question. Hope everything turns out OK
Old 07-14-2009, 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by SI JASON,Jul 13 2009, 09:27 PM
Just wondering if anyone else has had an issue like this before i start spending money where i don't need to.

Anyway the other night my car was driving normal. I parked it in the garage and the next day i take it out and its hard to get into all the gears. Also some times the gears clunk And while in first with the pedal pressed down the car wanted to move forward for a second.
So i flushed my clutch master cylinder (all black and nasty fluid almost looked like metal flakes in it) and bled the line. Also changed tranny fluid and rear diff fluid. Now if i shift at low rpm's its fine but if i rev high rpms it does it again.

So i'm thinking clutch,slave cylinder,master cylinder and hopefully not tranny. Im prob gonna replace the slave and master cylinder first and if still have issue replace clutch ughh ....


Any thoughts?
I don;t think tranny fluid is the problem, but who knows. IMO, this is about an actual shifting problem, especailly since the car can creep forward with your foot on the clutch pedal. I'd say you are on the right track with the hydraulics. How many miles are on your car? I have not heard about the MC or slave failing on the S2000, but everything wears out eventually. If nothing is leaking out, I'd try another round of bleeding and then adjust the slave cylinder. As for replacement of cylinders, I'd hold off on that until you get under the car and see if the actuation rod is traveling out of the slave cylinder the correct distance when someone steps on the clutch. Also, with the pedal down, does the rod maintain its position, or does it start to creep back. If you don't know how far the rod is supposed to extend when the clutch pedal is depressed, we could do a side by side comparison with a car that is working correctly. Also, maybe the WS manual tells you how far the rod is supposed to extend.


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