Scott/Giles - What were the plugs you installed?
04-09-2006, 11:53 AM
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Scott/Giles - What were the plugs you installed?
Can't remember the name and model of the cooler spark plugs you all installed before my last dyno run.
Do you guys remember?
Do you guys remember?
04-09-2006, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by djweaver,Apr 9 2006, 02:53 PM
Can't remember the name and model of the cooler spark plugs you all installed before my last dyno run.
Do you guys remember?
Do you guys remember?
I have them in stock in 1 and 2 step colder if you know someone that needs them .
I believe we put 2 steps cooler in yours because i was out on 1 step and at the time of tuning you were detonating and we had to put the cooler plug in .
04-09-2006, 07:07 PM
#3
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Yeah .. detonation 
Never a good thing in an air pump 
I wasn't asking for any reason in particular. Just curious what was put into the car in case I ever need to replace them for some reason.
Seems alot of people out there are mezmerized by iridium plugs. I like the ones in there right now. Thank you very much.
So, you think they were 2 steps colder then OEM. Thanks.
Never a good thing in an air pump I wasn't asking for any reason in particular. Just curious what was put into the car in case I ever need to replace them for some reason.
Seems alot of people out there are mezmerized by iridium plugs. I like the ones in there right now. Thank you very much.
So, you think they were 2 steps colder then OEM. Thanks.
04-10-2006, 02:06 PM
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If you need more plugs let us know. If it's for someone else then get them to call Scott as he has the plugs in stock and that we he'll get more business.
Plugs put the life into the soul of your engine. The requirements for an OEM plug are that it has to pass emmissions after 100,000 miles without being changed. This will include some 5,000 to 10,000 cold starts when emmision control is usually switched off.
During a cold start the ECU injects a lot of fuel to help increase exhaust temps and coolant temperatures to get the engine and catalytic convertor up to optimal emissions temperature as fast as possible. The plugs have to be able to handle this kind of onslaught without getting fouled (covered in so much fuel and carbon that they won't spark).
To help reduce fouling Iridium style plugs have a pointed electrode thus causing the shortest gap between the electrode and the hook to be right at the tip. This will cause the spark to always connect to that point keeping it clean and getting it hotter quicker.
Since that point it used all the time it is prone to wear which is why they use iridium, it is very strong.
To help decrease the heat up time you'll see that the electrode is very exposed with very little contact to the body of the plug so any heat is retained in the electrode.
Under high power conditions these exposed electrodes can crack and send fragements of the material all around your cylinder scoring up the walls etc ... and then you are looking at an engine rebuild.
The plugs that you have have a larger electrode and shorter 'reach' so they are much better at handling the high heat and power that you are putting into them during boost than the iridiums, but not as good on the emmisions side until the engine is warmed up.
Since they have a large electrode they are more prone to fouling but this will only happen if you start the car just to pull it out of garage and then switch off, wash it, start it back up again just to pull it into the garage and do this over and over again ang again.
Make sense?
Plugs put the life into the soul of your engine. The requirements for an OEM plug are that it has to pass emmissions after 100,000 miles without being changed. This will include some 5,000 to 10,000 cold starts when emmision control is usually switched off.
During a cold start the ECU injects a lot of fuel to help increase exhaust temps and coolant temperatures to get the engine and catalytic convertor up to optimal emissions temperature as fast as possible. The plugs have to be able to handle this kind of onslaught without getting fouled (covered in so much fuel and carbon that they won't spark).
To help reduce fouling Iridium style plugs have a pointed electrode thus causing the shortest gap between the electrode and the hook to be right at the tip. This will cause the spark to always connect to that point keeping it clean and getting it hotter quicker.
Since that point it used all the time it is prone to wear which is why they use iridium, it is very strong.
To help decrease the heat up time you'll see that the electrode is very exposed with very little contact to the body of the plug so any heat is retained in the electrode.
Under high power conditions these exposed electrodes can crack and send fragements of the material all around your cylinder scoring up the walls etc ... and then you are looking at an engine rebuild.
The plugs that you have have a larger electrode and shorter 'reach' so they are much better at handling the high heat and power that you are putting into them during boost than the iridiums, but not as good on the emmisions side until the engine is warmed up.
Since they have a large electrode they are more prone to fouling but this will only happen if you start the car just to pull it out of garage and then switch off, wash it, start it back up again just to pull it into the garage and do this over and over again ang again.
Make sense?
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