Oil change question
05-27-2003, 02:26 PM
#11
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No expert here, but my 01 is going to turn 20,000 miles this week and it has had some VERY dirty oil in some of the changes since zero. I wouldn't worry about it too mutch. I changed right around every 3000 miles, and still do so with the synthetic. Last synthetic change was pretty disgusting. I guess it's doing what it's supposed to do.
05-27-2003, 06:48 PM
#14
Originally posted by s2ktaxi
Maybe the S2000 pan is steel?
Maybe the S2000 pan is steel?
05-27-2003, 07:28 PM
#15
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Bill,
I use the aluminum drain plug sealing washers on both of my Hondas, and the fiber drain plug sealing washers on my Toyota. I bought them with the oil filters from my dealer(s). The fiber washers seems to work exactly the same as the aluminum washer. They key is to replace them at each oil change and not re-use them.
BTW, Saabs and Ferraris use copper drain plug sealing washers, and they work exactly the same as the aluminum or fiber sealing washers (although I have heard you can re-use the copper ones once if you anneal them with a torch prior to re-use).
I tighten all of my drain plugs to about 30 foot pounds with my clicker torque wrench (figure +/- 10 percent torque accuracy is as close as you'll ever get, especially since there is lubricant on the threads). The key is to make it tight enough to not back out from vibration, but not too tight that you damage the threads or crack the pan.
On tightening the filter, some filters say as much as 1 full turn after the gasket makes initial contact, and some say as little as 1/2 turn -- it really depends upon the filter manufacturer. Make sure you apply a light coat of the oil you're using to the gasket and hand tighten it as close as you can get to what the instructions say. If it's as tight as you can physically get it by hand then I feel it's tight enough, even if it's a quarter of a turn off from the instructons (guidelines).
I add enough oil to just cover the upper letter on the dip stick with the engine at rest for 15 minutes (all oil drained back into the pan when measured).
Kind Regards, Chris
I use the aluminum drain plug sealing washers on both of my Hondas, and the fiber drain plug sealing washers on my Toyota. I bought them with the oil filters from my dealer(s). The fiber washers seems to work exactly the same as the aluminum washer. They key is to replace them at each oil change and not re-use them.
BTW, Saabs and Ferraris use copper drain plug sealing washers, and they work exactly the same as the aluminum or fiber sealing washers (although I have heard you can re-use the copper ones once if you anneal them with a torch prior to re-use).
I tighten all of my drain plugs to about 30 foot pounds with my clicker torque wrench (figure +/- 10 percent torque accuracy is as close as you'll ever get, especially since there is lubricant on the threads). The key is to make it tight enough to not back out from vibration, but not too tight that you damage the threads or crack the pan.
On tightening the filter, some filters say as much as 1 full turn after the gasket makes initial contact, and some say as little as 1/2 turn -- it really depends upon the filter manufacturer. Make sure you apply a light coat of the oil you're using to the gasket and hand tighten it as close as you can get to what the instructions say. If it's as tight as you can physically get it by hand then I feel it's tight enough, even if it's a quarter of a turn off from the instructons (guidelines).
I add enough oil to just cover the upper letter on the dip stick with the engine at rest for 15 minutes (all oil drained back into the pan when measured).
Kind Regards, Chris
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