Oil change question
05-26-2003, 07:27 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Oil change question
Just did the first oil change. Man was that old oil nasty. Anyway, two things came up.
1. Oil filter says to tighten it 7/8ths of a turn with the wrench. I found that unusual as most spin on filters say to just hand tighten after the point of contact. I followed the directions and tightened it 7/8ths after the seal made contact. Is that what everyone else does?
2. I got a replacement washer for the oil drain bolt made of some kind of synthetic material. The one that was on the car originally looks like aluminum or some other white metal. The new washer fit well and I was able to touque the bolt to the correct setting, but the washer looked just a little squeezed out. Have the rest of you used these synthetic washers? It was not from the dealer.
1. Oil filter says to tighten it 7/8ths of a turn with the wrench. I found that unusual as most spin on filters say to just hand tighten after the point of contact. I followed the directions and tightened it 7/8ths after the seal made contact. Is that what everyone else does?
2. I got a replacement washer for the oil drain bolt made of some kind of synthetic material. The one that was on the car originally looks like aluminum or some other white metal. The new washer fit well and I was able to touque the bolt to the correct setting, but the washer looked just a little squeezed out. Have the rest of you used these synthetic washers? It was not from the dealer.
05-26-2003, 08:01 PM
#2
Bill,
I have never been able to turn my filter as far as 7/8 turn after gasket contact. I usually screw that sucker on as hard as I physically can and can only get to about 6/8ths. I have never had an issue of it coming loose. However, for some guys I do oil changes for, they feel more comfortable with a just a bit more so after I've tightened it by hand, I carefully use the oil filter wrench to turn it a little more.
If you oil the rubber gasket and make sure the old gasket is NOT stuck on the engine, you should not have any problems with just hand tight.
A synthetic gasket may not allow you to use the proper torque. As you have already witnessed, it is somewhat "squished". Keep an eye on it as it may leak in time. I have been re-using the old washer now for almost two years. I just clean it and the bolt really well, put the washer back on the way same direction it came off and install the bolt. Have never had a problem.
I have never been able to turn my filter as far as 7/8 turn after gasket contact. I usually screw that sucker on as hard as I physically can and can only get to about 6/8ths. I have never had an issue of it coming loose. However, for some guys I do oil changes for, they feel more comfortable with a just a bit more so after I've tightened it by hand, I carefully use the oil filter wrench to turn it a little more.
If you oil the rubber gasket and make sure the old gasket is NOT stuck on the engine, you should not have any problems with just hand tight.
A synthetic gasket may not allow you to use the proper torque. As you have already witnessed, it is somewhat "squished". Keep an eye on it as it may leak in time. I have been re-using the old washer now for almost two years. I just clean it and the bolt really well, put the washer back on the way same direction it came off and install the bolt. Have never had a problem.
05-27-2003, 05:08 AM
#4
Thread Starter
Thanks Francis and Xviper.
For some reason, I remember seeing or hearing a comment that the drain bolt washer was a fibre material so when I saw the replacements they were selling at the parts store I thought they would be fine. I was doing the job on memoprial day, so the dealer's parts department was closed. I think I will re-check the torque on the bolt after I go for a little drive to see if the washer has held up after the engine reaches operating temp. I was surprised to see the torque setting was so high since the pan is aluminum.
For some reason, I remember seeing or hearing a comment that the drain bolt washer was a fibre material so when I saw the replacements they were selling at the parts store I thought they would be fine. I was doing the job on memoprial day, so the dealer's parts department was closed. I think I will re-check the torque on the bolt after I go for a little drive to see if the washer has held up after the engine reaches operating temp. I was surprised to see the torque setting was so high since the pan is aluminum.
Trending Topics
32 or there abouts.
05-27-2003, 09:40 AM
#10
Thread Starter
Jim, Francis, and others
Owners manual says 33. At 33 the washer was "bulging" around the bottom half of the bolt head, but not terribly so. At the top half of the bolt head, the washer sits in a recess machined into the pan so no bulging. If I have time tonight, I will take it for a short run and then see what happens.
Francis, when my car was new, I could not see the oil on the dip stick, it was so clear. I had to touch it to see where the oil was. A thousand miles later it was darker and easily visible. Last night, it came out quite dark (you saw it on my dip stick the day before). Do you think the dealer changed out the factory fill before I got the car? The castrol GTX I just put in looks just like the original oil did on the dip stick when I first bought the car.
Owners manual says 33. At 33 the washer was "bulging" around the bottom half of the bolt head, but not terribly so. At the top half of the bolt head, the washer sits in a recess machined into the pan so no bulging. If I have time tonight, I will take it for a short run and then see what happens.
Francis, when my car was new, I could not see the oil on the dip stick, it was so clear. I had to touch it to see where the oil was. A thousand miles later it was darker and easily visible. Last night, it came out quite dark (you saw it on my dip stick the day before). Do you think the dealer changed out the factory fill before I got the car? The castrol GTX I just put in looks just like the original oil did on the dip stick when I first bought the car.