Vinny_GPW-S2K

This year I started of replacing all four brake pads, rotors and found out that the the driver side rear piston doesn't engage all the way in versus all the other three are fine. So I figure I'll do a caliper rebuilt and pick up the kit and do all the calipers to have it run smooth. Since doing that I might as well replace the brake hose for some stainless steel but will need help with the brake bleed. Never done it and don't want to mess it up by having air in the system. Was gonna take it to Scott to have it done after having the valve adjustment but with so much going on the car won't make it without have the brake bleed correctly.

SilverS2kF22C1

Park a friend or your +1 in the drivers seat to run the pedal. Get a piece of tube that fits on the bleeders and a bottle. and a couple of pints of brake fluid. Fill up the master cylinder with fluid and starting at the drivers front, crack the bleeder have the person push down on the pedal, close the bleeder, have the person lift the pedal, open the bleeder, press the pedal, close the bleeder, etc etc until fluid comes out clear and free of air bubbles. Then go to passenger front, drivers side rear, passenger side rear... Once all bled push the pedal a bunch of times to ensure the pads are against the rotors before starting the car, then pull away slowly to make sure there aren't any other issues.

Keep and eye on the fluid level if it goes dry you have to start over! I also found you can get in a rhythm if the pedal pusher does the direction. OPEN, waits a second, pushes pedal, CLOSE, waits a second, lifts pedal, OPEN, etc etc... It will get tough to push as the system is closer to being bleed too...

Not hard and you can have it done in under an hour from tires on the ground to tires on the ground.

Vinny_GPW-S2K

BTW I'm doing my caliper rebuild is there anyway I can plug up the brake line from having the fluid come out while I'm working on the caliper?

SilverS2kF22C1

Use the cap that is on the bleeder, but I would go through a full brake bleed anyways, you already have to do it might as well get all fresh fluid in there.

kenta

So you've already installed or rebuilt the calipers? If that's all you need then read ^^^ that post. If you cannot get someone to assist I would be happy to lend a hand but if I recall you're a bit of a drive away. You could drive up here, but I'm not sure how far I am from your place.

grovefromnh

Get a set of Russell (sp?) Speed Bleeders. They have a built -in check valve so air cannot get into your system. Makes easy, one person brake bleeding. open bleeder one half turn, pump brakes (keeping an eye on the fluid level), put in fresh fluid pump again, tighten bleeder, repete with rest of calipers. Start with caliper farthest from master cylinder, work your way to closest. Piece of cake. Make sure you use brakeline wrenches on the lines. Also suggest baking the brake pads before installing. Get old toster oven , put in pads (NO overlaping), 350 degrees for 30 min. (just like cookies!) unplug oven, (DO NOT open oven door as sudden exposure to cold air will make pad material brittle) once oven cool install pads and they will work right away without bedding in.

SilverS2kF22C1

^ I am intrigued by the baking the brake pads... Bedding in a set of Carbotech XPs is a harrowing experience on the street if you follow what they really want you to do!

blueosprey90

Vinny, although I've never done this job on the S, I think that you will need to let the fluid drain out of the system. I would get clear 1/4 inch tubing at the hardware store, about 5 feet. I would siphon the fluid out of the master cylinder resevoir into a container. I would then open up your brake lines at the wheels, one by one, and let the fluid drain out by gravity while you have a beer. I say this because if you are trying to keep fluid in your lines while you are changing out to the SS lines, it will be a big mess - and the fluid will most likely damage your paint if it gets on the car. Best to get all that old fluid out of the way.

Regarding the calipers, I'm not sure what you mean by a rebuild. Also I can't remember if the S has a single piston or a double piston. On my MG (double piston), I had to replace the seals and the question was how to get the pistons out of the caliper. The only way I could do it was to remove the caliper from the rotor, hang it off of some suspension piece and then use the brake pressure from operating to pedal to push the pistons out. (causes a big brake fluid mess once out). The S may not be the same at all, but I think you need to figure out how you plan to push the pistons out if you are doing a complete rebuild. Air pressure might be an option, a grease gun as well, but then you have a grease cleanup to contend with.

I have no idea of your skill level, but if you're not sure how to bleed the brakes, maybe you should reconsider rebuilding the calipers.

SilverS2kF22C1

If you need to remove the pistons for rebuild air pressure is the fast cleanest way... Put a rag in the cailper, NOT YOUR HAND! and just puff some air into the brake line hose connection until the piston pops out.

Vinny_GPW-S2K

Kenta I'm in Lowell if I remember your in Nashua NH correct? I begin this month by saying I had replace the brake pads and rotors, painted all the calipers red. This project got extended because I found out the piston would engage back on the driver side rear so figure I might as well do a caliper rebuild on all four. Never done the caliper rebuild but I have seen the diy on the forum plus some work done on youtube just needed someone with more experience to guide me. While doing work on those I thought I might as well replace the brake line instead of changing it later in the future the car is a 2000 model with 118K mileage. Order the goodridge ss brake line set and caliper rebuilt from Honda accessories it should be there sometime this week. I just wanted everything done all at once since I'm already under the car plus maybe the bar link too.