Hondata Gasket install.....
#1
Community Organizer
Thread Starter
Hondata Gasket install.....
Ok, I just am hitting a wall that I can't get past. I am about 80% done. I can't get to the last 2 bottom rear bolts on the intake and the 2 bolts on the underside of the intake(support bracket).
Anybody local in CT done this that can lend a hand/tools to make it happen? Or do I need to just flat bed this bad boy to a shop and have them finish it up?
I am so mad because I know this isn't beyond my ability(or thought it wasn't).
I think I am just missing a couple tools or techniques to make this happen! I have come to far to NOT do this now.
I followed the instructions off the S2000.org site for the insulator. So I know what comes next but just can't seem to get the bolts to cooperate.
Anybody local in CT done this that can lend a hand/tools to make it happen? Or do I need to just flat bed this bad boy to a shop and have them finish it up?
I am so mad because I know this isn't beyond my ability(or thought it wasn't).
I think I am just missing a couple tools or techniques to make this happen! I have come to far to NOT do this now.
I followed the instructions off the S2000.org site for the insulator. So I know what comes next but just can't seem to get the bolts to cooperate.
#2
Wooble heads help a lot plus a few different length extensions. Did you remove the fuel rail? The first time I took mine off it took me a while to figure it out and I cut up my hand pretty good. Once you do it the next time is much easier. I was lucky cuz when it came time to put it back on brian(drhess) did it for me.
#3
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Thread Starter
Did some other reading. One post said "Yes, the 1/4" 12mm u-joint socket, + extensions, is a must, especially for the bottom manifold bolt towards the front of the car." Only issue I have is I have 100K+ on the odo and it's 10 years old. So getting bolts off isn't as easy as it might be if it were new!
One bolt almost stripped others have been super hard to get out. So I would almost fear that I might break/bend a 1/4" bolt/extension.
Fuel rail came off early! Thought I got all the oil out but guess not.
Oh BEER and lunch provided for anyone that's hands on to help get it completed!!!!
One bolt almost stripped others have been super hard to get out. So I would almost fear that I might break/bend a 1/4" bolt/extension.
Fuel rail came off early! Thought I got all the oil out but guess not.
Oh BEER and lunch provided for anyone that's hands on to help get it completed!!!!
#4
ok so take this with the knowledge I haven't wrenched on an S2K engine...
but if they are corroded/rusted don't forget the pb blaster first!!
it will eat up the rust.
don't make it harder than it has to be.
but if they are corroded/rusted don't forget the pb blaster first!!
it will eat up the rust.
don't make it harder than it has to be.
#6
I would gladly come by and try to lend a helping hand but today is already booked up for me with some much needed family time. If you r still stuck into next week I may be able to come by then.
#7
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by dibi,Aug 8 2010, 09:18 AM
I would gladly come by and try to lend a helping hand but today is already booked up for me with some much needed family time. If you r still stuck into next week I may be able to come by then.
Will PB blaster all those bolts again and again!
Updates to follow if I make progress.
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#8
Registered User
Personally, I'd pass on the swivel socket and buy a "wobble" extension. I own both, and I cannot remember the last time I used a universal joint socket; the wobble extension and a regular socket work better for me. Greatest invention since sliced bread, IMHO.
And a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster is a must. Many of those are steel bolts threaded into aluminum. The dissimilar metals and repeated heat cycles make removal difficult.
I've found that one of those "flexible claw grabber/retriever things" can be invaluable when re-installing bolts that are a bear to reach. They're typically about 2.5-3 feet long; you push a button on one end and 3 or 4 metal claws open up on the other end. You put the head of the bolt in the claws and when you release the button the claws hold the bolt tightly enough to start the bolt into the hole.
And a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster is a must. Many of those are steel bolts threaded into aluminum. The dissimilar metals and repeated heat cycles make removal difficult.
I've found that one of those "flexible claw grabber/retriever things" can be invaluable when re-installing bolts that are a bear to reach. They're typically about 2.5-3 feet long; you push a button on one end and 3 or 4 metal claws open up on the other end. You put the head of the bolt in the claws and when you release the button the claws hold the bolt tightly enough to start the bolt into the hole.
#10
Registered User
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P6...ore&dir=catalog
I don't know how much of an "oldtimer" you are, but wobble extensions have been around for at least 15-20 years.
I don't know how much of an "oldtimer" you are, but wobble extensions have been around for at least 15-20 years.