Garage floor paint
#1
Thread Starter
Garage floor paint
Every year I think about painting the garage floor and every year I get so much conflicting information about what works and what doesn't that I never do it. so have any of you painted your garage floor? What did you use, how did it come out, and would you do it again?
#2
In for info! I thought of doing the floor at my place this year but never got to it, but maybe next year.... Like you Bill I seemed to have gone round and round, paint it , tile it, urethane it, round and round... never settling... For the money though the Ucoat it system seems to be worth it...
#3
Thread Starter
There was a big thread on garage floors over in Vintage forum some time back. here is the link:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/562...ge+floor+paint
Again, so many options to choose from. I think i want some type of paint or epoxy because I jack my cars up on the floor and I'm not sure the tiles would hold up to a floor jack.
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/562...ge+floor+paint
Again, so many options to choose from. I think i want some type of paint or epoxy because I jack my cars up on the floor and I'm not sure the tiles would hold up to a floor jack.
#4
Community Organizer
I like the stain option but not sure how that will handle the stains that are already on the floor and if you go darker it will only make the floor that much darker!
Anyone used something like Thompson Water Seal as that is specifically made to adhere to concrete and penetrate in. Yes it will repel water just as much.
I have a workman power painter so I have a feeling I might paint the floor and call it a day then re-paint as needed. The epoxy stuff never seems to last unless you have a Pro do it or you do it like a pro would!(prep, prep, prep)
Anyone used something like Thompson Water Seal as that is specifically made to adhere to concrete and penetrate in. Yes it will repel water just as much.
I have a workman power painter so I have a feeling I might paint the floor and call it a day then re-paint as needed. The epoxy stuff never seems to last unless you have a Pro do it or you do it like a pro would!(prep, prep, prep)
#5
Thread Starter
I'm willing to do the prep
#6
The prep that I have seen in industrial buildings involves shot peening the floor.
I have been seeing polished concrete in a number of buildings. No coatings, just polishing. Looks like it is coated, but it is not. Shiny like it is slippery, but it is not, even when wet.
I have been seeing polished concrete in a number of buildings. No coatings, just polishing. Looks like it is coated, but it is not. Shiny like it is slippery, but it is not, even when wet.
#7
Registered User
I used the U-Coat-It system. Three--art primer coat, two-part color coat, colored chips, and clear urethane over the top.
My floor was 20+ years old and degrading from the salt; the areas that I prepped properly are still golden six or eight years later. There is a spot where the underlying concrete continued to degrade under the paint, with the expected results. There is also a spot where the paint didn't adhere, probably due to silicones on the concrete. You could cover either spot with 2 one-dollar bills.
As with any paint job, the prep work determines the success or failure of the job. I was in the tool rental place looking at the "Edco Concrete Grinder" but had no way to get it home. Don't make that mistake if your floor is old and contaminated with oil, silicones, etc.
Also, don't kid yourself that your two-car garage floor will look like a NASCAR shop floor, unless you're going to be there to clean up every time a car pulls in. What's going to happen is that you pull a car that's covered in "black snow" into the garage; the snow will melt and leave a black puddle on the floor; the water will evaporate and leave a black spot.
Despite using color chips and sand, there's a certain humidity/temperature/dew point weather condition that causes condensation on the floor: it's really slippery when that happens.
But given the degradation to the floor to begin with, I'd do it over again.
My floor was 20+ years old and degrading from the salt; the areas that I prepped properly are still golden six or eight years later. There is a spot where the underlying concrete continued to degrade under the paint, with the expected results. There is also a spot where the paint didn't adhere, probably due to silicones on the concrete. You could cover either spot with 2 one-dollar bills.
As with any paint job, the prep work determines the success or failure of the job. I was in the tool rental place looking at the "Edco Concrete Grinder" but had no way to get it home. Don't make that mistake if your floor is old and contaminated with oil, silicones, etc.
Also, don't kid yourself that your two-car garage floor will look like a NASCAR shop floor, unless you're going to be there to clean up every time a car pulls in. What's going to happen is that you pull a car that's covered in "black snow" into the garage; the snow will melt and leave a black puddle on the floor; the water will evaporate and leave a black spot.
Despite using color chips and sand, there's a certain humidity/temperature/dew point weather condition that causes condensation on the floor: it's really slippery when that happens.
But given the degradation to the floor to begin with, I'd do it over again.
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#8
My uncle did the U-coat it and I like the look and durability of it, its been a couple years since he did it and its holding up very nice. My father sealed his with something like the Thompson, gives it a little sheen and is supposed to repel water, but its not very old so can't commit on how it holds up just yet. Ive heard on other forums that porcelain tile is the best things to use, because it cleans easy and is very hard to chip.
#9
Thread Starter
I'd be surprised if the tile didn't crack under the weight of a car on a floor jack.
I'll look into u-coat-it a bit further.
I'll look into u-coat-it a bit further.
#10
Registered User
Bill, I use my floor jack on the U-Coatit and it's never been a problem. I try to put cardboard (beer twelve-pack carton works well) under the jack stands so they don't dig in.
Had I done a better prep job, I'd be ecstatic with the results. Unfortunately, while I had all my garage stuff in other places (much of it outside wrapped in plastic) the weather changed and I was forced to rush things. As I said, two one-dollar bills would cover either problem spot. I'll get around to patching them someday. The last time I checked, U-Coatit will sell small "touch-up" kits.
Had I done a better prep job, I'd be ecstatic with the results. Unfortunately, while I had all my garage stuff in other places (much of it outside wrapped in plastic) the weather changed and I was forced to rush things. As I said, two one-dollar bills would cover either problem spot. I'll get around to patching them someday. The last time I checked, U-Coatit will sell small "touch-up" kits.