Brake parts recommendations?
#1
Thread Starter
Brake parts recommendations?
Ok all you brake gurus step forward!
I am going to redo the brakes in my Accord and I have no idea what parts are "good"
and what parts aren't worth the metal used to make them!
I don't mind spending more money to get stuff that is going to last and be good quality
especially since my son also drives this car.
So, do I just go to the dealer? Can I get something equally as good or better from
say Auto Zone? If so, what brand(s) should I look for?
I am going to be buying rotors and pads.
Thanks in advance for any assistance!
Edit: Also, do I need anything else? Does the fluid need to be changed? Should it
be at 150k miles? Any other miscellaneous parts?
I am going to redo the brakes in my Accord and I have no idea what parts are "good"
and what parts aren't worth the metal used to make them!
I don't mind spending more money to get stuff that is going to last and be good quality
especially since my son also drives this car.
So, do I just go to the dealer? Can I get something equally as good or better from
say Auto Zone? If so, what brand(s) should I look for?
I am going to be buying rotors and pads.
Thanks in advance for any assistance!
Edit: Also, do I need anything else? Does the fluid need to be changed? Should it
be at 150k miles? Any other miscellaneous parts?
#5
Lets start with the most critical item.
Jack Stands!!!!!!!
you'll need about 3-4 ft of some quarter inch tubing.
this will slip onto the bleeder valve, it makes infinitely easier when you get to the flushing and bleeding the brakes part.
Aquarium air hose works pretty well.
a turkey baster or syringe to remove the old fluid from the reservoir.
some brake fluid, I don't know if you need DOT 3 or 4.
Check ahead of time what size/type of bolts the caliper is attached with so you know you have the right wrenches.
This will save you time when you go to do the swap and find out your missing a T-25 Torx socket. ( I just did mine ML320 brakes Tuesday, by shear luck I had the right socket)
Pick up a tube of anti-seize.
You'll need a C-clamp or equivalent to compress the piston back into the calipers. I used a really big slip wrench.
Pick a time when you son will be there to help you.
You need a body to pump the brakes while you bleed them.
Besides he should know what's involved if he'll be driving it.
Nothing like earning seat time.
lots of towels and hot water....oh no that's having a baby..
buts seriously a bunch of rags, brakes aren't exactly the cleanest of jobs.
maybe a small tube of gojo.
Jack Stands!!!!!!!
you'll need about 3-4 ft of some quarter inch tubing.
this will slip onto the bleeder valve, it makes infinitely easier when you get to the flushing and bleeding the brakes part.
Aquarium air hose works pretty well.
a turkey baster or syringe to remove the old fluid from the reservoir.
some brake fluid, I don't know if you need DOT 3 or 4.
Check ahead of time what size/type of bolts the caliper is attached with so you know you have the right wrenches.
This will save you time when you go to do the swap and find out your missing a T-25 Torx socket. ( I just did mine ML320 brakes Tuesday, by shear luck I had the right socket)
Pick up a tube of anti-seize.
You'll need a C-clamp or equivalent to compress the piston back into the calipers. I used a really big slip wrench.
Pick a time when you son will be there to help you.
You need a body to pump the brakes while you bleed them.
Besides he should know what's involved if he'll be driving it.
Nothing like earning seat time.
lots of towels and hot water....oh no that's having a baby..
buts seriously a bunch of rags, brakes aren't exactly the cleanest of jobs.
maybe a small tube of gojo.
#6
Registered User
erick (and i) installed all new brakes and a set of frt rotors on the lude last night and we didn't need to bleed the brakes
you need a #10 socket and a #12 socket - and some grease for the slides (Erick taught me this last night)
a c clamp will work fine to compress the frt calipers BUT you need a special tool to compress the rears
you need a #10 socket and a #12 socket - and some grease for the slides (Erick taught me this last night)
a c clamp will work fine to compress the frt calipers BUT you need a special tool to compress the rears
#7
but at 10 yrs/ 168K it probably is due for a fluid flush.
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#8
for rotors id do auto zone and pads do oem....all others suck IMO. either they dust up or you go through them like butter. I think when taking off the rotors theres a screw holding the rotor on, I couldn't get it off I just drill ed head off and left it like that. its a common issue and your fine without the screw
#10
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I'd just get pads and rotors from whatever parts store you like. I'd ask for ceramic pads though. In my opinion, they're much better than the cheaper metallic ones.