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Brake bleeding

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Old 04-02-2012, 02:30 PM
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I used this. It's 30 dollars from AutoZone. It's ok. But for some reason everytime I bleed there's always air bubbles.
Old 04-02-2012, 02:42 PM
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Sometimes the lower pressure of a power bleeder leaves some bubbles. What I've done in the past is get about 15PSI on the power bleeder, crack open the bleeder screw, then cycle the brake pedal a couple of times. It worked really well on my Cayman, the procedure is in the shop manual. Haven't tried it on the S2K yet.
Old 04-02-2012, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by daktruckie99
I use the Billman gravity bleed and don't necessarily get a hard pedal, but the brakes stop just as they always have. Is your braking performance bad?

Funny you said it took a while to gravity bleed. That seems to be the case for some people, others not. It never takes me more than 15 minutes per wheel, then again I don't sit and watch. I let it drip and do other chores.

-Mike

Ditto- works great. Always have the same pedal feel/ consistent.
Old 04-02-2012, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by blueosprey90
I'm old school. Proper bleeding of brakes requires a girlfriend or a wife.
had a girlfriend who used to help me,
she turned into a wife along the way and still helped me.
then one day she said you have a son now, why are you bothering me?
Old 04-02-2012, 07:05 PM
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Have you seen one of these? http://www.brakebleeder.com/bleeding-brakes/ It may be the same technology as Red Sun posted above but it seems as though it should force all the air back out to the master cylinder. I have always had good luck with gravity bleed but it usually takes about 20-30 min per wheel for me. As for always getting air when bleeding I read in some caliper rebuild discussion that using a little of the grease on the bleeder screw helped seal it better so when you crack it open nothing sneaks by. Have not tried it yet so take it as internet info (use at your own risk)
Old 04-03-2012, 06:21 AM
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We VAC bleed them here.

But I do them in the complete opposite order. I start with the farthest one first RR, LR, RF, LF
Old 04-03-2012, 07:01 AM
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But I do them in the complete opposite order. I start with the farthest one first RR, LR, RF, LF

I would have thought that was the bleed order as well - and is how I bleed the MGA. But I'm almost positive the shop manual gives the order starting LF, RF, RR and LR.

Maybe it doesn't make any real difference - as long as you get the air out!

How come your brake fluids are different colors? The only time I noticed a difference was between silicone (DOT-5) and glycol (DOT-3 or 4) fluids. But they are not compatible! I think I recently used an AP fluid (not sure which one). I think it was the same golden color as the regular DOT 3 or 4.
Old 04-03-2012, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by blueosprey90
How come your brake fluids are different colors?
I use ATE DOT4 fluid. They make a blue one and a gold one, spec's are identical. Makes flushing a breeze because you know when the old stuff is out, at least that's why I use ATE.

-Mike
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