2nd Gear grind at lower RPM's
#31
Registered User
Billman, can you comment on if this might be a solution to my tranny symptom:
My S tranny has trouble getting into gear in the first 10-15 minutes of driving. Clutch in; push start button; engine roars; tranny shifts fine to all gears (except downshift back to 1st after I get moving), until I come to a stop and let the clutch out. Clutch back in; I have trouble putting it back into 1st gear. I often have to slightly strong-arm it to 3rd then to 1st. In short stoppage, I often keep the clutch in to save myself that trouble. It feels as though the clutch assembly is not quite lined up correctly. After 10-15 minutes of (warm up) driving, it goes away and the tranny shifts the way it was meant to be. When the car cools back down after sitting for few hours (depending on outside temperature), the process starts over again.
I have had my S for 4+ years. This problem only started to occur at about the same time last year. I change tranny fluid regularly with Honda MTF to no avail. I don
My S tranny has trouble getting into gear in the first 10-15 minutes of driving. Clutch in; push start button; engine roars; tranny shifts fine to all gears (except downshift back to 1st after I get moving), until I come to a stop and let the clutch out. Clutch back in; I have trouble putting it back into 1st gear. I often have to slightly strong-arm it to 3rd then to 1st. In short stoppage, I often keep the clutch in to save myself that trouble. It feels as though the clutch assembly is not quite lined up correctly. After 10-15 minutes of (warm up) driving, it goes away and the tranny shifts the way it was meant to be. When the car cools back down after sitting for few hours (depending on outside temperature), the process starts over again.
I have had my S for 4+ years. This problem only started to occur at about the same time last year. I change tranny fluid regularly with Honda MTF to no avail. I don
#32
Moderator
Sounds like the disc is dragging, most common cause is
1 Clutch adjustment as described above
2 The disc splines are sticking to the shaft, prolly require tranny removal to fix this one
I'd opt for the first..Remember guys this clutch system is piggybacked. In other words, think of the clutch pedal and the master cylinder ROD ONLY as the first part, and the master/line/slave cyl as the second. If you removed the rod and the pedal, nothing would change down below. When you adjust the freeplay, make sure you don't have any initial pressure on the back of the master, just enough to take up the play between the rod and the master. When done, you'll feel about 5/8 of an inch of freeplay at the pedal when pressing with your foot. This is the preset amount of freeplay built into the master cylinder.
1 Clutch adjustment as described above
2 The disc splines are sticking to the shaft, prolly require tranny removal to fix this one
I'd opt for the first..Remember guys this clutch system is piggybacked. In other words, think of the clutch pedal and the master cylinder ROD ONLY as the first part, and the master/line/slave cyl as the second. If you removed the rod and the pedal, nothing would change down below. When you adjust the freeplay, make sure you don't have any initial pressure on the back of the master, just enough to take up the play between the rod and the master. When done, you'll feel about 5/8 of an inch of freeplay at the pedal when pressing with your foot. This is the preset amount of freeplay built into the master cylinder.
#33
Originally Posted by billman250,Sep 6 2004, 11:44 AM
Sounds like the disc is dragging, most common cause is
1 Clutch adjustment as described above
2 The disc splines are sticking to the shaft, prolly require tranny removal to fix this one
I'd opt for the first..Remember guys this clutch system is piggybacked. In other words, think of the clutch pedal and the master cylinder ROD ONLY as the first part, and the master/line/slave cyl as the second. If you removed the rod and the pedal, nothing would change down below. When you adjust the freeplay, make sure you don't have any initial pressure on the back of the master, just enough to take up the play between the rod and the master. When done, you'll feel about 5/8 of an inch of freeplay at the pedal when pressing with your foot. This is the preset amount of freeplay built into the master cylinder.
1 Clutch adjustment as described above
2 The disc splines are sticking to the shaft, prolly require tranny removal to fix this one
I'd opt for the first..Remember guys this clutch system is piggybacked. In other words, think of the clutch pedal and the master cylinder ROD ONLY as the first part, and the master/line/slave cyl as the second. If you removed the rod and the pedal, nothing would change down below. When you adjust the freeplay, make sure you don't have any initial pressure on the back of the master, just enough to take up the play between the rod and the master. When done, you'll feel about 5/8 of an inch of freeplay at the pedal when pressing with your foot. This is the preset amount of freeplay built into the master cylinder.
#34
you're problem with second gear is the same problem i was having.i had to replace the 1st and 2nd gear set per service bulletin.that took care of the problem.i tried everything else that is mentioned on this board and it did nothing to remedy my grind.so good luck and hopefully you still are under warranty!
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