2nd Gear grind at lower RPM's
09-01-2004, 01:24 PM
#21
Moderator
Fluid change....suck it out with a turkey baster, use small pieces of paper towel to remove the black sludge in the bottom of the master. REFILL the master to the top. Open the bleeder, allow 90% of the fluid to just run out. The trick is to close the bleeder before the fluid gets low enough for air to enter the tiny hole. Close bleeder, refill to the full mark, which is a good 3/8" from the top.
Freeplay...push the clutch lightly with your finger while looking at where the rod goes into the master under the dash with a flashlight. Adj it so it barely moves in the back of the master.
Bill, it may look like you're out of threads, but don't worry. There's plenty there to adj it right.
Freeplay...push the clutch lightly with your finger while looking at where the rod goes into the master under the dash with a flashlight. Adj it so it barely moves in the back of the master.
Bill, it may look like you're out of threads, but don't worry. There's plenty there to adj it right.
09-01-2004, 02:44 PM
#23
Now I have to find some good Dot 3 fluid. I read that Dot 3 lasts longer than Dot 4. What do folks here usually use?
09-01-2004, 02:51 PM
#24
Originally Posted by g-s2k,Sep 1 2004, 05:05 PM
I know I'm not Billman 
But I'll toss my two cents in here 
1. Both are appropriate ways of flushing the clutch fluid. But the Tureky Baster option just saves time.
2. How much play do you see with light finger pressure?
But I'll toss my two cents in here 1. Both are appropriate ways of flushing the clutch fluid. But the Tureky Baster option just saves time.
2. How much play do you see with light finger pressure?
09-01-2004, 02:53 PM
#25
Originally Posted by billman250,Sep 1 2004, 12:13 PM
When adjusted correctly, you should barely be able to see the rod move in the back of the master when applying light finger pressure.
09-01-2004, 03:04 PM
#26
Moderator
You'll feel all kinds of weird stuff. Bottom line, watch the piston in the back of the master. The piston will have it's own play in the master. But the play between the end of the ROD where it sits in the master, and the master PISTON, should be almost none. enough that you can barely see.
09-01-2004, 08:00 PM
#28
Well, Billman was correct, there was plenty of adjustment available even though at first glance it looks like the rod is in by three threads. On first attemp I followed Billman's advice as close as I could. I drove the car and right away I could feel a difference in the clutch. It seems to be fully disengaged well before the pedal hits the floor. My first to second shifts felt fine, but the real test will be when I am not concentrating on them and just driving normally. The clutch fluid was very dark and needed flushing. I used the Billman technique of sucking out the old stuff first, refilling, and just opening the bleeder screw. I did use one of those hose and bottle things that catch all the fluid so you don't get a mess. I just used Castrol GT LMA fluid. I'll use the big dollar race stuff for the brakes.
So in summary, it feels better and it is easy to do. All took about an hour including the road test and this write up.
So in summary, it feels better and it is easy to do. All took about an hour including the road test and this write up.
09-02-2004, 06:45 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by Legal Bill,Sep 2 2004, 12:00 AM
So in summary, it feels better and it is easy to do. All took about an hour including the road test and this write up.
