2nd Gear grind at lower RPM's
#12
Originally Posted by jojipoji,Aug 31 2004, 01:16 PM
Billman fixed my 1 to 2nd gear grind. There is a adjusment you can do on the clutch...pm him for details.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...utch+adjustment
#13
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Location: West Hartford, CT
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i dont know much of the detail, but i believe he said something was loose, which was causing some 1 to 2 shift grinds (occured at least 20 times). Since he adjusted it, no grinds.
#14
Please be very carefull when palying around with the clutch pedal height adjustment. In the thread link posted above, make sure you read the warning from gernby!
If you think the pedal is not depressing all the way, there's a quick and easy way to find out. Just take out the rubber stopper where the pedal hits the floor. That should give you a bit extra push in. Drive around like that and if it's any better you can put the stopper back and raise the pedal height.
Good luck!
If you think the pedal is not depressing all the way, there's a quick and easy way to find out. Just take out the rubber stopper where the pedal hits the floor. That should give you a bit extra push in. Drive around like that and if it's any better you can put the stopper back and raise the pedal height.
Good luck!
#15
Moderator
Well guys, here's the deal...First, change the clutch fluid. Second, using a 12mm open end wrench, set the clutch rod under the dash to zero freeplay. Back in the day, manual clutches needed a certain amount of freeplay to keep the pressure plate from dragging on the throwout bearing and causing premature wear. Hydraulic clutches are designed differently. When adjusted correctly, you should barely be able to see the rod move in the back of the master when applying light finger pressure.
#16
Moderator
Originally Posted by mas,Sep 1 2004, 06:54 AM
Please be very carefull when palying around with the clutch pedal height adjustment. In the thread link posted above, make sure you read the warning from gernby!
If you think the pedal is not depressing all the way, there's a quick and easy way to find out. Just take out the rubber stopper where the pedal hits the floor. That should give you a bit extra push in. Drive around like that and if it's any better you can put the stopper back and raise the pedal height.
Good luck!
If you think the pedal is not depressing all the way, there's a quick and easy way to find out. Just take out the rubber stopper where the pedal hits the floor. That should give you a bit extra push in. Drive around like that and if it's any better you can put the stopper back and raise the pedal height.
Good luck!
#17
Registered User
Originally Posted by billman250,Sep 1 2004, 12:13 PM
Well guys, here's the deal...First, change the clutch fluid. Second, using a 12mm open end wrench, set the clutch rod under the dash to zero freeplay. Back in the day, manual clutches needed a certain amount of freeplay to keep the pressure plate from dragging on the throwout bearing and causing premature wear. Hydraulic clutches are designed differently. When adjusted correctly, you should barely be able to see the rod move in the back of the master when applying light finger pressure.
looks like some sound advice
#19
Originally Posted by billman250,Sep 1 2004, 12:13 PM
Well guys, here's the deal...First, change the clutch fluid. Second, using a 12mm open end wrench, set the clutch rod under the dash to zero freeplay. Back in the day, manual clutches needed a certain amount of freeplay to keep the pressure plate from dragging on the throwout bearing and causing premature wear. Hydraulic clutches are designed differently. When adjusted correctly, you should barely be able to see the rod move in the back of the master when applying light finger pressure.
1. When you change the fluid do you just bleed it through and keep adding fresh stuff until it bleeds out clean, or do you suck the old stuff out of the master with a turkey baster first, refill with the fresh stuff, and then bleed it out.
2. I looked at my free play adjustment last night. It looked like the end of the rod was alrady just about flush with the inside of the u shaped connector that it is threaded into. Is that normal? Is it ok to back that rod out further? I'm afraid there won't be enough threads to hold it in.
#20
I know I'm not Billman But I'll toss my two cents in here
1. Both are appropriate ways of flushing the clutch fluid. But the Tureky Baster option just saves time.
2. How much play do you see with light finger pressure?
1. Both are appropriate ways of flushing the clutch fluid. But the Tureky Baster option just saves time.
2. How much play do you see with light finger pressure?