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smart. Surprises aren't fun.
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an idiot. Just pull the damn thing off.
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Slave Cylinder Q
09-11-2012, 04:03 PM
#1
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Slave Cylinder Q
Hey guys, I'm gonna be disconnecting my slave cylinder to bleed it (using Billman's method), but was wondering how the end thing disconnects from the transmission thing. I've circled them for those of you who don't understand my technical jargon. Anyone know?
I'm just wondering because I'll be short on time and don't want any surprises.
Thanks,
T
I'm just wondering because I'll be short on time and don't want any surprises.
Thanks,
T
09-11-2012, 05:01 PM
#3
09-12-2012, 02:00 AM
#5
Its just a ball pin that rests inside a cup. Once you remove the two bolts, it'll slide right out. Don't remove the rubber coner you'll just regret it later. Dont forget to regrease the ball before you install everything back together.
09-12-2012, 04:31 AM
#6
That is the release fork. It clicks into place (inside the trans housing), allowing the fork to pivot when pressure is applied (via the slave cylinder).
For your install, there is no need to touch it
For your install, there is no need to touch it
09-14-2012, 04:31 PM
#7
I think your trouble getting the slave back on is normal behavior. In my experience (I've taken my slave off ~4 times) it's always been a pain to bolt back on. My method is:
1: Clutch reservoir cap off
2: Before putting it back on the transmission, compress the slave piston as far in as it will go (this takes a little force, but you don't need to open the bleeder)
3: With the first bolt close at hand, let go of the push rod, and quickly try to get the slave into place.
4: Continue holding the slave firmly in one hand (so it doesn't back out) as you start threading the bolts with the other hand.
5: ...
6: Profit!
1: Clutch reservoir cap off
2: Before putting it back on the transmission, compress the slave piston as far in as it will go (this takes a little force, but you don't need to open the bleeder)
3: With the first bolt close at hand, let go of the push rod, and quickly try to get the slave into place.
4: Continue holding the slave firmly in one hand (so it doesn't back out) as you start threading the bolts with the other hand.
5: ...
6: Profit!
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09-14-2012, 04:41 PM
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I think your trouble getting the slave back on is normal behavior. In my experience (I've taken my slave off ~4 times) it's always been a pain to bolt back on. My method is:
1: Clutch reservoir cap off
2: Before putting it back on the transmission, compress the slave piston as far in as it will go (this takes a little force, but you don't need to open the bleeder)
3: With the first bolt close at hand, let go of the push rod, and quickly try to get the slave into place.
4: Continue holding the slave firmly in one hand (so it doesn't back out) as you start threading the bolts with the other hand.
5: ...
6: Profit!
1: Clutch reservoir cap off
2: Before putting it back on the transmission, compress the slave piston as far in as it will go (this takes a little force, but you don't need to open the bleeder)
3: With the first bolt close at hand, let go of the push rod, and quickly try to get the slave into place.
4: Continue holding the slave firmly in one hand (so it doesn't back out) as you start threading the bolts with the other hand.
5: ...
6: Profit!
09-14-2012, 05:52 PM
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It doesn't. At first I thought it was an issue too, but I noticed today today that the slave I had replaced is an AP1 version without the delay valve.
As a side note, when I had the clutch replaced, the shop replaced my slave cylinder as well. Their reason for replacing it was that it would not freely move (or something like that), which I think is the same problem I'm having. This leads me to believe the problem is somewhere before the slave, and is what caused my original clutch to slip. The master cylinder does not leak any more than a slight teardrop of fluid that just hangs there, no fluid dropping onto the carpet. Any ideas what could cause this?
As a side note, when I had the clutch replaced, the shop replaced my slave cylinder as well. Their reason for replacing it was that it would not freely move (or something like that), which I think is the same problem I'm having. This leads me to believe the problem is somewhere before the slave, and is what caused my original clutch to slip. The master cylinder does not leak any more than a slight teardrop of fluid that just hangs there, no fluid dropping onto the carpet. Any ideas what could cause this?