New Rotors
#21
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Originally Posted by TubeDriver,Dec 12 2006, 04:13 PM
The short answer is no. Slotted rotors used to help when old style brake compounds degassed at higher temps but that is not an issue with modern pads.
I have used slotted rotors and all that I got was additional vibrationand they eat up pads faster. I am currrently running around in a car that has about 14 track days on the rotors (which is super long life, they were OEM Miata blanks). There are a ton of heat and stress cracks on these rotors and my last set of pads (XP10 in front) lasted 2 track events. When I run the same set of pads with nice, new blank rotors (without all the little heat/stress slots) I get 3-4 track events of pad life.
Basically, you want street pads on the street and track pads on the track. I use OEM pads on the street and autoX and Carbotech XP12 front and XP10 rear for the track.
If you really do need a track pad on the street, SLOW DOWN before you kill yourself. J/K (sort of).
Decent compromise pads like the Carbotech Bobcat or Panther+ tend to work great for aggressive street driving and autoX but not really that well on the track. I actually drove around all summer on XP8s (light vehicle weight track pads - Miata) with no problems.
Get OEM rotors, pads that match your intended use and decent, fresh brake fluid (I use Valvoline Synpower DOT 3-4 which is availabe at AutoZone and work great street or track).
I have used slotted rotors and all that I got was additional vibrationand they eat up pads faster. I am currrently running around in a car that has about 14 track days on the rotors (which is super long life, they were OEM Miata blanks). There are a ton of heat and stress cracks on these rotors and my last set of pads (XP10 in front) lasted 2 track events. When I run the same set of pads with nice, new blank rotors (without all the little heat/stress slots) I get 3-4 track events of pad life.
Basically, you want street pads on the street and track pads on the track. I use OEM pads on the street and autoX and Carbotech XP12 front and XP10 rear for the track.
If you really do need a track pad on the street, SLOW DOWN before you kill yourself. J/K (sort of).
Decent compromise pads like the Carbotech Bobcat or Panther+ tend to work great for aggressive street driving and autoX but not really that well on the track. I actually drove around all summer on XP8s (light vehicle weight track pads - Miata) with no problems.
Get OEM rotors, pads that match your intended use and decent, fresh brake fluid (I use Valvoline Synpower DOT 3-4 which is availabe at AutoZone and work great street or track).
Pete, I mentioned this in the other thread we both responded in, but Carbotech notes on their website that the 12's are for cars over a certain weight(above ours), so I did not get those- I purchased 10/8. Thoughts?
#22
While we're on this topic, what is everyone's stance on cryo treated OEM blanks?
I have seen these for sale and often wondered if the claims were true about the effect of the cryogenic processes on brake rotors with regards to resistance to abrasion and warping.
I have seen these for sale and often wondered if the claims were true about the effect of the cryogenic processes on brake rotors with regards to resistance to abrasion and warping.
#23
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Originally Posted by TubeDriver,Dec 12 2006, 04:13 PM
The short answer is no. Slotted rotors used to help when old style brake compounds degassed at higher temps but that is not an issue with modern pads.
I have used slotted rotors and all that I got was additional vibrationand they eat up pads faster. I am running around in a car that has about 14 track days on this current set of rotors (which is super long life, they were OEM Miata blanks). There are a ton of heat and stress cracks on these rotors and my last set of pads (XP10 in front) lasted 2 track events. When I run the same set of pads with nice, new blank rotors (without all the little heat/stress slots) I get 3-4 track events of pad life.
Basically, you want street pads on the street and track pads on the track. I use OEM pads on the street and autoX and Carbotech XP12 front and XP10 rear for the track.
If you really do need a track pad on the street, SLOW DOWN before you kill yourself. J/K (sort of).
Decent compromise pads like the Carbotech Bobcat or Panther+ tend to work great for aggressive street driving and autoX but not really that well on the track. I actually drove around all summer on XP8s (light vehicle weight track pads - Miata) with no problems.
Get OEM rotors, pads that match your intended use and decent, fresh brake fluid (I use Valvoline Synpower DOT 3-4 which is availabe at AutoZone and work great street or track).
I have used slotted rotors and all that I got was additional vibrationand they eat up pads faster. I am running around in a car that has about 14 track days on this current set of rotors (which is super long life, they were OEM Miata blanks). There are a ton of heat and stress cracks on these rotors and my last set of pads (XP10 in front) lasted 2 track events. When I run the same set of pads with nice, new blank rotors (without all the little heat/stress slots) I get 3-4 track events of pad life.
Basically, you want street pads on the street and track pads on the track. I use OEM pads on the street and autoX and Carbotech XP12 front and XP10 rear for the track.
If you really do need a track pad on the street, SLOW DOWN before you kill yourself. J/K (sort of).
Decent compromise pads like the Carbotech Bobcat or Panther+ tend to work great for aggressive street driving and autoX but not really that well on the track. I actually drove around all summer on XP8s (light vehicle weight track pads - Miata) with no problems.
Get OEM rotors, pads that match your intended use and decent, fresh brake fluid (I use Valvoline Synpower DOT 3-4 which is availabe at AutoZone and work great street or track).
Guess not, Glad to have learned something new
#24
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Thanks for the huge help gang. Never thought it would get this serious, but braking is serious. Looks like im sticking with OEM rotors, better pads, SS brakelines, and some fresh fluid. Also when i change all this out, i can paint my calipers! 2 birds with one stone.
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Originally Posted by C45P312,Dec 13 2006, 08:05 AM
Thanks for the huge help gang. Never thought it would get this serious, but braking is serious. Looks like im sticking with OEM rotors, better pads, SS brakelines, and some fresh fluid. Also when i change all this out, i can paint my calipers! 2 birds with one stone.
Thats exactly what I did. It is REAAALLYY easy to work on the calipers when they aren't on the car. Cleaning them...painting them everything was pretty simple. Best thing would be to paint them. Leave them over night, then the next day add another coat or two...
Good luck with it
#26
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Originally Posted by CaptKirk,Dec 12 2006, 01:40 PM
I had blank rotors (no slots, holes or anything) for a while with Hawk HPS pads and Stoptech Stainless steel lines. I really liked the setup except for the fact that I experienced brake fade on more than one occasion...the most serious one being on the dragon. They started to fade fairly quickly and were completely dead by the time I reached the bottom. Keep in mind that this was my first run down the dragon so I wasn't really testing the limits of my ability or the car, and they faded pretty bad...to the point that I couldn't get the car to stop over ~100 ft from about 20-25 mph. Ask the guy I was behind, I'm sure he remembers
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Originally Posted by FF2Skip,Dec 12 2006, 03:19 PM
I de-gas often.
Pete, I mentioned this in the other thread we both responded in, but Carbotech notes on their website that the 12's are for cars over a certain weight(above ours), so I did not get those- I purchased 10/8. Thoughts?
Pete, I mentioned this in the other thread we both responded in, but Carbotech notes on their website that the 12's are for cars over a certain weight(above ours), so I did not get those- I purchased 10/8. Thoughts?
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