J-rod

'm getting a burning smell from the drivers side rear brake caliper . . . and my abs light is on
I'm thinking maybe the slide in there is jammed? anyone know a lot about the ABS system?



Thanks for the help!


UPDATE: took the car to the dealer, they said that both my rear calipers need to be replaced, that my diff is blown, and that i need new rear axles . . .

1. If my diff was locking up, how was i able to even drive the car?
2. If both calipers need to be replaced, why was just the one getting hot, and why aren't my rotors warped?
3. The rear driveshafts were just replaced, why do I need new axles?


do I just need to replace the one driver's side rear caliper?


I need help!! I don't have $6k


UPDATE: had my mechanic friend call and talk to the tech at the dealership, and then he asked me a few questions

I'm not getting any popping sounds or anything from the rear when i'm backing up, etc. so my mechanic says he thinks my axles are fine.

Only one of the calipers was generating heat and creating the smell, the other one wasn't at all, so he doesn't think I need to replace both calipers, and that I might not even need to replace the one, if i took it apart, regreased the slides, and sanded the pads I should be fine. because the rotors don't appear warped, and i don't get any vibrations while driving or braking.

Also, the car isn't pulling to one side, so he said it should be fine to drive home.

He also said the tech didn't even test the diff right. When he went to turn the wheel while the car was in the air, he didn't hold the driveshaft still . . . so he as turned the wheel and the other didn't move, he assumed my diff was blown. My mechanic said you have to hold it still, the tech at the dealer says you don't

I need to get the car working! It's my only means of transportation!!





. . . this seems like another dealer trying to screw me over, but if someone more mechanically inclined than myself could help me out I'd greatly appreciate it. I can do basic repairs, i can swap out a diff, put on new pads, oill changes, etc. But i'm by no means a master mechanic, so any help I can get is greatly appreciated!!

9k_on_occasion

That stuff about the diffy and axles sounds pretty skeezy. A bad diff will make all sorts of awful noises, and the axles would make that CV joint clicky popping noise in tight turns.

The brake problem could be a caliper pin seizing up, or it could be a collapsed brake hose. The heat is from the pads being on all the time, and the smell is the inside of the tire burning off.

I'd say run like hell from the dealer and get that mechanic friend to look it over.

I spy Psi

**** that.

something fishy is going on. No way in hell. Buy new calipers in the rear (Might as well replace them in a set, but if your tight on money just do the one) I always do both for the "just in case"

if the rear diff was locking up, it would jerk/shutter/stall/ect.

Something sounds ****ed. If you happen to take it to another shop, don't mention anything about the rear diff or anything like that just that you have a brake problem, otherwise you might find some other snake in a stealership..

FallenHero

I wouldn't go back there at all. Go check out a couple other places...as previously stated...I'd just inquire on a brake adjustment and see what happens. Keep us posted

C Ory

Change the brake hoses and calipers, then bleed out all the air. Your wheel bearings MAY be going bad, but I doubt it.

J-rod

Ok, so yeah, that dealer was trying to **** me hardcore.

I looked at the quote sheet for all the parts they wanted to order . . . they wanted me to get new driveshafts, which were replaced less than a month ago, i have the labor receipt and everything. And I don't get any popping or anything, so my cv joints are fine.

I went home, parked the car in first, left the e-brake off, jacked up the passenger side, tried to spin the wheel, and it would barely move, so my diff is fine as well. It wasn't making any noise to being with.

The drivers side caliper is probably seized, and the rotor appears glazed over, but it's not warped. So I could have the caliper taken apart, regrease the pins/slide, and then sand the brake pad . . . or just get an already rebuilt caliper and replace it entirely.


Either way, that dealer was trying to **** me hardcore. I'm surprised they didn't say my speed sensor was fried too or something. Of course, they also wanted $95 to hook my car up to the computer and scan the codes.

So, I might write an editorial to the newspaper about this whole experience.

Here are some pics of the driveshafts for you all to see:









And a picture of the rotor from the caliper that is makin all the stink, as you can see, it appears to be glazed over

J-rod

a buddy of mine says I might not even need a rebuilt caliper, and that if I just grease up the slider pins, that might solve the problem entirely.

C Ory

If the piston in the caliper is sticking, greasing the hardware isn't going to do anything for you. It wouldn't hurt to try, but I wouldn't bet on it being the only problem.

J-rod

yeah, but at least everything else on the car is fine . . .

I just went out, cut the wheel as hard as i could to the left and the right, drove the car in circles, cv joints didn't make a sound, no pops or anything

****in dealership, the better business bureau will be getting a nice letter very shortly

. . . my mechanic friend that helped me resolve all of this lives outside of Chicago . . . he was able to diagnose it all from 1000 miles away, but he can't help me with any of the repairs . . . and since I also have some suspension that needs to be put on, i'm more than willing to throw some money/beer someone's way for the help!! I worked at a honda dealer for 2 years as a lube tech in undergrad in IL, but all i have out here tool wise is a small wratchet set and some screwdrivers

sparrow

Happened to me on my civic... a little grease on the slider pin and and new pads and all was well...