Mid-A AutoX event pics
07-29-2009, 08:19 PM
#32
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Jeff, I've been planning to call you so I can do some sway bar talk with you. Have been doing tons of research on them, and I might need your help for shopping. 
07-30-2009, 03:37 AM
#33
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they say the CR is 36% stiffer. and in my ap1 the ideal thing to balance the car out would be stiffer in front and softer in rear, correct? So my thinkig is run a stiffer CR sway in front and a AP2 sway in rear. REASON being b/c if i return my suspention to stock i can still run the stock class with those sways. now of course if i choose not to be able to run stock class then i should get an adjustable one.
Pete, ive PM'd a few guys that claim to be autoX'ers and they say for street tires 225/225 is the best way to go. I wont know until i try of course.
This is the thread where im getting my info,
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...ic=709551&st=0
Pete, ive PM'd a few guys that claim to be autoX'ers and they say for street tires 225/225 is the best way to go. I wont know until i try of course.
This is the thread where im getting my info,
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...ic=709551&st=0
07-30-2009, 06:14 AM
#35
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While the FSB is unlimited in the stock class, the RSB can not be changed. So you would not be able to run the AP2 rear bar in stock class.
I recommend getting the stiffest bar possible and adjustable endlinks, I'm kinda partial to the Gendron bar myself. The AP1 is considerably more tail happy so it must be controlled.
Heres what I would do if I wanted to built a competetive "Street Tire" car in your situation.
1. Start with a stock car, A Stock (take things off that put you in BSP)
2. Get good street tires 225/225 (Star Specs, RE-01s or Kumho XS)
3. Get a good alignment (-2 camber up front, -2.5 in the rear, 1/8 or 1/16 toe out in the front, 1/16 in in the rear and max caster)
4. Modifry shift indicator if you don't know exactly where redline is or arn't comfortable bouncing off of it.
5. Stiffer sway bar with adjustable end links (adjustable end links would even make a difference on a stock bar)
6. Custom valved shocks, specific to autocross S2ks
7. Ultra light weight wheels
That would make a very competetive AS"X" (street tire) car. If you go into BSP, its a whole new ball game.
Ultimately, the S is a great car right out of the box and none of that stuff is needed to go out and have a great time at an autocross. You really need to just get out there and start driving, then you'll know exactly what you'll want and need to do.
I recommend getting the stiffest bar possible and adjustable endlinks, I'm kinda partial to the Gendron bar myself. The AP1 is considerably more tail happy so it must be controlled.
Heres what I would do if I wanted to built a competetive "Street Tire" car in your situation.
1. Start with a stock car, A Stock (take things off that put you in BSP)
2. Get good street tires 225/225 (Star Specs, RE-01s or Kumho XS)
3. Get a good alignment (-2 camber up front, -2.5 in the rear, 1/8 or 1/16 toe out in the front, 1/16 in in the rear and max caster)
4. Modifry shift indicator if you don't know exactly where redline is or arn't comfortable bouncing off of it.
5. Stiffer sway bar with adjustable end links (adjustable end links would even make a difference on a stock bar)
6. Custom valved shocks, specific to autocross S2ks
7. Ultra light weight wheels
That would make a very competetive AS"X" (street tire) car. If you go into BSP, its a whole new ball game.
Ultimately, the S is a great car right out of the box and none of that stuff is needed to go out and have a great time at an autocross. You really need to just get out there and start driving, then you'll know exactly what you'll want and need to do.
07-30-2009, 06:53 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by Apeatwo,Jul 30 2009, 08:14 AM
While the FSB is unlimited in the stock class, the RSB can not be changed. So you would not be able to run the AP2 rear bar in stock class.
I recommend getting the stiffest bar possible and adjustable endlinks, I'm kinda partial to the Gendron bar myself. The AP1 is considerably more tail happy so it must be controlled.
Heres what I would do if I wanted to built a competetive "Street Tire" car in your situation.
1. Start with a stock car, A Stock (take things off that put you in BSP)
2. Get good street tires 225/225 (Star Specs, RE-01s or Kumho XS)
3. Get a good alignment (-2 camber up front, -2.5 in the rear, 1/8 or 1/16 toe out in the front, 1/16 in in the rear and max caster)
4. Modifry shift indicator if you don't know exactly where redline is or arn't comfortable bouncing off of it.
5. Stiffer sway bar with adjustable end links (adjustable end links would even make a difference on a stock bar)
6. Custom valved shocks, specific to autocross S2ks
7. Ultra light weight wheels
That would make a very competetive AS car. If you go into BSP, its a whole new ball game.
Ultimately, the S is a great car right out of the box and none of that stuff is needed to go out and have a great time at an autocross. You really need to just get out there and start driving, then you'll know exactly what you'll want and need to do.
I recommend getting the stiffest bar possible and adjustable endlinks, I'm kinda partial to the Gendron bar myself. The AP1 is considerably more tail happy so it must be controlled.
Heres what I would do if I wanted to built a competetive "Street Tire" car in your situation.
1. Start with a stock car, A Stock (take things off that put you in BSP)
2. Get good street tires 225/225 (Star Specs, RE-01s or Kumho XS)
3. Get a good alignment (-2 camber up front, -2.5 in the rear, 1/8 or 1/16 toe out in the front, 1/16 in in the rear and max caster)
4. Modifry shift indicator if you don't know exactly where redline is or arn't comfortable bouncing off of it.
5. Stiffer sway bar with adjustable end links (adjustable end links would even make a difference on a stock bar)
6. Custom valved shocks, specific to autocross S2ks
7. Ultra light weight wheels
That would make a very competetive AS car. If you go into BSP, its a whole new ball game.
Ultimately, the S is a great car right out of the box and none of that stuff is needed to go out and have a great time at an autocross. You really need to just get out there and start driving, then you'll know exactly what you'll want and need to do.
07-30-2009, 07:13 AM
#37
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The new setup everyone seems to be leaning toward is 225/225 AP1 or 245/245 AP2, non staggered. I plan to stick with my 245/275 Hoosiers for at least the rest of this year to see how the 245/245 cars do at nationals. At the beginning of the post I wrote "street tire", I'll fix it so the end says it too. You're right, this setup with street tires doesn't stand a chance against properly setup AS cars.
07-30-2009, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Apeatwo,Jul 30 2009, 09:13 AM
The new setup everyone seems to be leaning toward is 225/225 AP1 or 245/245 AP2, non staggered. I plan to stick with my 245/275 Hoosiers for at least the rest of this year to see how the 245/245 cars do at nationals. At the beginning of the post I wrote "street tire", I'll fix it so the end says it too. You're right, this setup with street tires doesn't stand a chance against properly setup AS cars.
The 245/245 combo for AP2 might work out but I can't see 225/225 really being any faster for the AP1.
07-30-2009, 10:22 AM
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I think the 225/225 for the AP1 might be due to wheel size, don't know. The 245/245 is supposed to be good for corner speed. I think my car would be way loose on asphalt with 245/245.
07-30-2009, 12:19 PM
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ok, So ive been trying to search and search. Is there any legal way to soften up the rear of the AP1? or do you thin the stiff FSB will kinda equal out the car and stop the ass from coming around? Also would you recommend going with a 245/245 tire size with 17" or 16"?
By custom valve shocks, do you mean modifying the stock shocks? B/c i was under the impression that if you change the the shocks and springs you lose the ability to run in the stock class.
Going for an alignment on next thurs. we'll see what i can get.
By custom valve shocks, do you mean modifying the stock shocks? B/c i was under the impression that if you change the the shocks and springs you lose the ability to run in the stock class.
Going for an alignment on next thurs. we'll see what i can get.