HELP!! Oil change & Swaybar swap
#1
HELP!! Oil change & Swaybar swap
Hopefully this group can answer a few questions for me...
Oil change
I changed the oil myself for the first time today. I was taught that the oil drain plug should be tightened, but careful not to overtighten. Also, the oil filter should only be as tight as you can get it by hand. The Honda dealership seemed to have put the oil filter on with a torque wrench. Does anyone know a torque setting for the oil drain plug and how tight do you guys put on the oil filter?
Swaybar
I bought a used Saner swaybar, last year's model with 2 adjustable holes. I'm looking for any suggestions on swapping them. I took a look while under the car today. It didn't look terribly difficult. From what I saw, remove 7 plastic clips holding in the black plastic cover. Remove 4 bolts holding bar to car and 2 bolts holding the bar to the L & R suspension. The problem I ran into is that I couldn't figure out the bolts at the suspension. The looked like Allen heads. Also, my Saner bar has an adjustable link from the bar to the bolt that holds it to the suspension and the bar has 2 holes in it to make it 'stiffer or softer'.
Thanks for any suggestions or links to threads.
Don
Oil change
I changed the oil myself for the first time today. I was taught that the oil drain plug should be tightened, but careful not to overtighten. Also, the oil filter should only be as tight as you can get it by hand. The Honda dealership seemed to have put the oil filter on with a torque wrench. Does anyone know a torque setting for the oil drain plug and how tight do you guys put on the oil filter?
Swaybar
I bought a used Saner swaybar, last year's model with 2 adjustable holes. I'm looking for any suggestions on swapping them. I took a look while under the car today. It didn't look terribly difficult. From what I saw, remove 7 plastic clips holding in the black plastic cover. Remove 4 bolts holding bar to car and 2 bolts holding the bar to the L & R suspension. The problem I ran into is that I couldn't figure out the bolts at the suspension. The looked like Allen heads. Also, my Saner bar has an adjustable link from the bar to the bolt that holds it to the suspension and the bar has 2 holes in it to make it 'stiffer or softer'.
Thanks for any suggestions or links to threads.
Don
#2
go the racing and competition categories. lot of threads on sway bars. you have everything straight. i dont remember allen heads antwhere except for the pieces that keep the bar centered. the lenght of the end links isnt that important. i have mine set pretty short. try the first hole(farthest from the center of the bar) then the the second hole if iis still oversteering too much
#3
29Ft LBS for the drain plug
16Ft lbs for the filter, or 7 numbers up from a light seal (the filter is numbered 1-8)
On the front bar
There is a Bolt at the other end of the sway bard link (with the allen head)
You need to keep the end link centered (in the middle of the travel) when tightening down the bolt.
Also You Must load the suspension before the final tightening of your swaybar.
I put a jack under each a-arm and lifted the car just off the stands, then did the final tightening (torque wrench)
Buy a Helms manual, it's well worth the cost.
George
16Ft lbs for the filter, or 7 numbers up from a light seal (the filter is numbered 1-8)
On the front bar
There is a Bolt at the other end of the sway bard link (with the allen head)
You need to keep the end link centered (in the middle of the travel) when tightening down the bolt.
Also You Must load the suspension before the final tightening of your swaybar.
I put a jack under each a-arm and lifted the car just off the stands, then did the final tightening (torque wrench)
Buy a Helms manual, it's well worth the cost.
George
#4
You might appreciate => this <=. Also might defer any questions to SC_Highlander...but seriously, he's done a super job documenting how to install the Saner swaybar in the link provided .
- Dave
- Dave
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