Coilover Install -- WILL PAY FOR HELP!
#1
Coilover Install -- WILL PAY FOR HELP!
Hey guys,
I just posted this in the 'Under the Hood' section, but I'm willing to pay for any assistance with my coilover install problem. Here's whats going on -- Thanks in advance for taking a look at this and any help.
I know a coilover install shouldn't be hard, but I've hit a problem that I'm curious if anyone's ran into as well.
I've installed the driver side front coilover, and had no problem with that.
I started the passenger side install, following the same procedure as with the driver side.
When I removed the bottom bolt that holds the shock (the one that goes through the shock 'fork' at the bottom), there was a ton of pressure that pushed the bottom of the shock past the hole where it should be connected. Now I can't get the old spring/shock assembly off of the car so I can put in the new coilover.
The bottom of the shock is now at the point where I can't even get it to line up with it's respective spot.
Bolts I have removed (they've been replaced in the pictures, just because I'm at a standstill):
- 2 control arm bolts
- Brake line bolts
- Bottom perch bolt (the one that I now can't get to line up)
The sway bar stabilizer link has NOT been touched at all.
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated with this. Thank you so much guys!
I'LL BE MORE THAN HAPPY TO POST MORE PICTURES IF THEY WOULD HELP. Thanks again guys.
I just posted this in the 'Under the Hood' section, but I'm willing to pay for any assistance with my coilover install problem. Here's whats going on -- Thanks in advance for taking a look at this and any help.
I know a coilover install shouldn't be hard, but I've hit a problem that I'm curious if anyone's ran into as well.
I've installed the driver side front coilover, and had no problem with that.
I started the passenger side install, following the same procedure as with the driver side.
When I removed the bottom bolt that holds the shock (the one that goes through the shock 'fork' at the bottom), there was a ton of pressure that pushed the bottom of the shock past the hole where it should be connected. Now I can't get the old spring/shock assembly off of the car so I can put in the new coilover.
The bottom of the shock is now at the point where I can't even get it to line up with it's respective spot.
Bolts I have removed (they've been replaced in the pictures, just because I'm at a standstill):
- 2 control arm bolts
- Brake line bolts
- Bottom perch bolt (the one that I now can't get to line up)
The sway bar stabilizer link has NOT been touched at all.
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated with this. Thank you so much guys!
I'LL BE MORE THAN HAPPY TO POST MORE PICTURES IF THEY WOULD HELP. Thanks again guys.
#2
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 190
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Have someone put all their weight on the rotor, that will make the entire suspension come down freeing the trapped strut, or use the stock jack to force the upper control arm to push the suspension down. That will fix your problem easily.
#3
My pics are from flickr, I hope they'll work soon here.....Do you guys think taking off the lower control arm is necessary/would free the trapped strut??
#4
Registered User
Is the other side of the car on the ground? The swaybar will keep you from pushing that control arm down if that is the case. You installed a Coilover on the other side correct? If that side is on the ground the swaybar is going to be working against you, Disconnect it temporarily at the endlink then try to remove your stuck OEM Strut. I would also recommend you try this even if the car is on 4 jackstands.
-Froth
-Froth
#6
Is the other side of the car on the ground? The swaybar will keep you from pushing that control arm down if that is the case. You installed a Coilover on the other side correct? If that side is on the ground the swaybar is going to be working against you, Disconnect it temporarily at the endlink then try to remove your stuck OEM Strut. I would also recommend you try this even if the car is on 4 jackstands.
-Froth
-Froth
I'm guessing you're talking about the lower control arm. Is it that bad of a removal/install to take that arm off to free up my strut?
#7
Is the other side of the car on the ground? The swaybar will keep you from pushing that control arm down if that is the case. You installed a Coilover on the other side correct? If that side is on the ground the swaybar is going to be working against you, Disconnect it temporarily at the endlink then try to remove your stuck OEM Strut. I would also recommend you try this even if the car is on 4 jackstands.
-Froth
-Froth
Tip: Jack up the halves of the car together, and use jack stands. Or disconnect the end links, but I always find that to be a gamble with the allen head and wrench method
Edit: Whoops, looks like I waited too long to answer. Also, if the other coilover is installed... Try keeping it unbolted from the lower control arm until you bolt the other coilover on or at least remove the stock strut.
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#8
Thanks for making this your first post -- Yeah man, both halves are already on jack stands. Are you saying I should disconnect one side's sway bar end links? Why is it a 'gamble' to disconnect the end links?
#9
Originally Posted by Froth.' timestamp='1312960281' post='20863787
Is the other side of the car on the ground? The swaybar will keep you from pushing that control arm down if that is the case. You installed a Coilover on the other side correct? If that side is on the ground the swaybar is going to be working against you, Disconnect it temporarily at the endlink then try to remove your stuck OEM Strut. I would also recommend you try this even if the car is on 4 jackstands.
-Froth
-Froth
I'm guessing you're talking about the lower control arm. Is it that bad of a removal/install to take that arm off to free up my strut?
#10
Again, I'll pay for someone's travel down here to help out, buy lunch or something, whatever. It's just a hassle because I'm parked in a spot that I have to be out of pretty soon or my car will be towed.