2012 Track Junkie Thread
#324
The point to the above is that me saying to Ron, "DON'T DO IT!" is not my place. Each individual is exactly that- an individual. That was clearly evident on the track yesterday between Jim, George, and me! That need for individuality, however, does not override my desire to see good people succeed. If my experience can in any way help with a decision-making process, then I owe it to my friends to share it- not cram it down their collective throats. There are some serious drawbacks to building a dual-purpose car as well as a significant sense of accomplishment. I may be partial, but I truly believe my S2000 was one of the cleanest looking, yet modded, examples capable of some serious straightline speeds before N.E.R.D. Racing.
*For those who didn't or don't know, the sound system consisting of two 10" JL subs, two JL amps, a 5 farad capacitor, PS2, and Alpine dvd-based nav system were all removable in 20 minutes for track or autox use. Unfortunately, the fiberglassed, Sebring-painted tool well used as the sub enclosure had to stay in place.
My advice to Ron was more geared toward tire/wheel selection and what was to be asked of them. Any one of us who've run-what-we've-brung and then moved on to a grippier, purpose tire can offer the same advise. Asking a lesser tire to do more than what it's capable of is reducing the life cycle of that tire as well as possibly putting one in a bad spot. I'm not the end-all-be-all of track info... far from it. I spent well over $100k gross on my S2000. Far be it for me to tell another person not to do or buy something. I'm simply offering my experience.
#325
Skip's advice is the same as what I have done. I have Star Specs on my original AP2 wheels for the street (in summer) and Nitto NT01 on non staggered track wheels (Thanks Skip ). If it rains at the track, I can always switch to the Star Specs. NT01's blow in the wet worse than bald RA1's. I think 18's may cause some rub issues on the inside of the front wheel wells, if you try to go wide. I am no expert on wheel/tire sizes or brands, but Skip, Pete, George and Rob have been experimenting for a long time. I always follow their advice.
Good luck and put a 100 pound return spring on your throttle.
Good luck and put a 100 pound return spring on your throttle.
#327
If I may...
I see this ending badly in one of two ways. One is the aforementioned excessive power for the S2000 platform and the add'l risks associated with it. The second is the money being spent... and then respent. :-(
Definitely do not want to be a downer here, but trying to have one set of wheels/tires pull double duty is a bad compromise in this case, imo. Buy something for your bling wheel-wise and partner it with a good street tire- include in that selection some consideration for wet conditions. Then, once you have your car set up to be ready to go on track, purchase some beat-to-shit, flat black wheels and adorn them with proper r-comps. You'll have to shell out some coin up front, but take it from someone who has been down this road, you'll be saving money doing it this way.
I wish you the absolute best in your endeavor, Ron!
*Note to all: We were talking tires last night at dinner. Be careful making recommendations on tires you have not run personally. We all drive differently and in different conditions.
**Ron, for street, I would not recommend a square set-up regardless of what front bar you have. You have a heavy foot. Besides, an 18x10 in front?
I see this ending badly in one of two ways. One is the aforementioned excessive power for the S2000 platform and the add'l risks associated with it. The second is the money being spent... and then respent. :-(
Definitely do not want to be a downer here, but trying to have one set of wheels/tires pull double duty is a bad compromise in this case, imo. Buy something for your bling wheel-wise and partner it with a good street tire- include in that selection some consideration for wet conditions. Then, once you have your car set up to be ready to go on track, purchase some beat-to-shit, flat black wheels and adorn them with proper r-comps. You'll have to shell out some coin up front, but take it from someone who has been down this road, you'll be saving money doing it this way.
I wish you the absolute best in your endeavor, Ron!
*Note to all: We were talking tires last night at dinner. Be careful making recommendations on tires you have not run personally. We all drive differently and in different conditions.
**Ron, for street, I would not recommend a square set-up regardless of what front bar you have. You have a heavy foot. Besides, an 18x10 in front?
Thanks, Skip. I appreciate you always giving your most honest advice. The double duty wheels/tires is not really my plan, I would like to do the same thing I did on my last set up. Different street wheel/tires for street and track use but this time I'm thinking of going square set up for both even with my LFD (Lead Food Disease ). Like what you said, I may just find a cheaper track wheels this time unless I find another BC F1 on 18s .
I didn't know that Princess was a show and go car way back then until I saw some of your old pics. This makes your advice that more valuable to me but to be clear, I agree with Lou's statement. I listen and value every trackies track advice may it be driving technique, set up, and parts advice, just like the windshield wiper removal for faster time. J/k
#328
Today has been a very long day for me also. Changed engine oil, trans and diff fluid, installed R/L fenders liners, installed battery tie down, adjusted trunk alignment, adjusted HT to eliminate wind noise, cleaned all wheels and 500 bucks up in smoke and have not washed the car yet. Tomorrow continue to install the rest of the front under body panels. Note to self, don't lose any plastic pins and under body panel bolts, they are very expensive! . Maybe wash the car if not that windy anymore, armor all interior and clean engine bay. And then continue fixing my daughter's Jeep.
#329
Originally Posted by Olegator' timestamp='1330215023' post='21451269
Update on the Lemons car:
[attachment=16998:422551_920538187083_15211169_3824 3964_1805091445_n.jpg]
[attachment=16998:422551_920538187083_15211169_3824 3964_1805091445_n.jpg]
Today has been a very long day for me also. Changed engine oil, trans and diff fluid, installed R/L fenders liners, installed battery tie down, adjusted trunk alignment, adjusted HT to eliminate wind noise, cleaned all wheels and 500 bucks up in smoke and have not washed the car yet. Tomorrow continue to install the rest of the front under body panels. Note to self, don't lose any plastic pins and under body panel bolts, they are very expensive! . Maybe wash the car if not that windy anymore, armor all interior and clean engine bay. And then continue fixing my daughter's Jeep.
About that 100 lbs. throttle return spring.
#330
I only ran 225 fronts and 245 rear shaved and not shaved RA1's on the S2000. Shaved was way better. On miata full tread RA1's are fine, slower than shaved but you dont get the scary squirming under braking that the S2000 did. I tried 888's in the Miata and corded them in 4 weekends, they were about 1.5 seconds faster.
Everyone got much faster when they went to no-stagger tires, in 2007 and later. I was driving a vette then.
I bought used and really curbed up wheels for track use. They went to Skip at some point, I think Matt (topgear) might have them now?
Skip, had a great time Karting yesterday, even thought I was the "Ghost" car....
Everyone got much faster when they went to no-stagger tires, in 2007 and later. I was driving a vette then.
I bought used and really curbed up wheels for track use. They went to Skip at some point, I think Matt (topgear) might have them now?
Skip, had a great time Karting yesterday, even thought I was the "Ghost" car....