I just started up last year. The main thing is just to evaluate if the car is in good shape and what state the consumables are in (brakes, tires). Once I made the decision, I sold my wheels and went back to my stock wheels. These needed new tires. I ended up getting the Hankook V12 because they were cheap after a rebate ($380) and I figured somewhere down the line I may switch to a square setup and use my stock wheels as daily wheels. There are definitely better tire choices out there, but these worked out fine in the two track days I went to. I also had not changed my brake components in a while, and in fact the last time I did I had the rotors resurfaced, so I decided to change everything out. Some of the sponsors have good packages...I paid GT Motoring $275 for HP+ pads, ATE Superblue fluid, and stainless lines. If I did this again I might have just gone with the Carbotech's like most guys do...my thought process was that I do not need such an aggressive pad to start with (but the HP+ squeal and dust a lot anyways). I also spent more than most track guy's do on the rotors because I just liked the look of these J-hook rotors...you can save a bundle by just buying blanks. So total my brake upgrade was $675. I then decided to upgrade the radiator as well since it is a relatively inexpensive upgrade and I assume it keeps the water temps in check better than the stock one. If anything, it is a lot lighter being all aluminum. I went with the Koyo and I think I paid $340 or so. Last but not least, I got a roll bar. Hard Dog is pretty much what all the guys run for a bolt-in bar. If you just want to get out to the track, you can probably forgo the diagonals and keep the stock bulkhead in place so you can keep the stock belts - this is probably in the $500 range. I decided if I was going to do it then I'd do it right, and get one with the options I need to start with stock belts and in time move up to harnesses if need be. I got the bar with a welded diagonal, and welded lowered harness bar, and I also opted for the bulkhead brace replacement bar. This bar (as stated) replaces the bulkhead and allows you to run stock belts, but also won't get in the way of harnesses if you run them later. I think I paid a little bit north of $900. I then had a couple Mid-A locals help me install it. Last to buy was a helmet. I opted for one of the newer model Bell helmets as it was most comfortable. I think I paid $400. I recommend going to OG Racing in Sterling, VA or finding a place close to you, because it helps to try them on and find the proper size and comfort.

Next, I had David (yeaitsahonda) who is a certified mechanic help me install my brake components and radiator. He also changed my fluids (diff and transmission I believe) so the car was good to go.

After that, I signed up for a NASA event in the HPDE 1 group. If you talk to most of the guys here on this thread, they are all really cool guys, and Ron (Uncoolron) and Jason (metros) helped ease my nervousness the first day by saving me a space in the paddock (where you park your car in between runs) and installing my tow hitch () and making sure my tire pressures were good and lugs were torqued properly (little things that a first-timer might forget). Now, onto the action! The first weekend was an information overload for sure, and there was a lot going on (Hyperfest, races, Hyperdrives) but I definitely learned a lot. It is certainly a different experience than any driving on the street, and if the driver is slow, then a driver in a S2000 is really slow. I really got the "point-by" (must signal driver behind you to pass in groups 1 and 2) down that weekend But I did learn the driving line and the Summit Point track. The car held up fine and I only had an issue during the first run on Sunday when the track was wet. It was a totally different driving experience (white knuckled) and I spun out once. Unfortunately due to some events I was not able to get back to the track till October for the final NASA event of the year, so it was like starting all over again. I even muffed the registration process somehow and was not on the signup list, but luckily a nice man named Ralph offered to instruct for me. Personally I felt he was a better instructor because he tried to help me establish braking zones (especially for turn 1) rather than me gradually braking like the first event. He was also extremely enthusiastic and good at giving feedback. If you really want to know the potential of the S2000 on the road course, see if you can get a ride along with one of the more experienced guys. I road (edit: oops, been reading too many YouTube comments..rode) with Pete (TubeDriver) and MAN he is quick. R Compound tires sure do make a difference and really do appear to make miracles happen with the entry speed he took into the turns.

Hope that helped some. It is an expensive hobby, but is loads of fun. Let me know if you have any questions.

For reference, here is my roll bar install: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/868...-is-installed/

Rotors I paid extra for

 

https://www.facebook.com/?ref=logo#!/photo.php?fbid=10151273017310214&set=a.10150092816 950214.391393.720060213&type=1&theater

 

Rob's website is a great resource and the writeup above is good. Feel free to ask about specifics as you get into it.

To start the bare minimum is a brake fluid flush and decent pads (even stock for the first day would be acceptable as you won't be going all that fast (relatively)). You MIGHT be able to find a HPDE that will permit no roll bar, such as Track Daze on the Shenandoah circuit, but it would be a lot safer and smarter to get a bar.

The most important things to do at your first HPDE is check your ego at the door, have a positive attitude, and listen to your instructor.

 

55 tomorrow for the BSR clinic, I guess being bumped wasn't so bad,

 

Should be a great day for it. Have fun!

 

 

I'll be there.

 

You need to loose 400 HP , you won't learn very well with that kind of power.

 

You need to loose 400 HP , you won't learn very well with that kind of power.
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I don't know, 400HP is useful for learning how to hit walls.

 

You need to loose 400 HP , you won't learn very well with that kind of power.
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I don't know, 400HP is useful for learning how to hit walls.
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400 ft/lbs of torque helps move walls