2012 Track Junkie Thread
08-31-2012 | 05:08 PM
#1941
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,104
Likes: 4
From: NoVA
I spent about 2 hours of agony this morning removing rubber marks from the paint and putting a fresh coat of wax on the car. Now I remember why I only do this once a year.
My steering wheel was cocked off center when I test drove the car yesterday (I don't remember it being like that at the last track event) so I pulled out my 8 foot long aluminum level and used it to check the toe on all 4 wheels. I held it against the side of the tire with six feet of it extending toward the other tire on that side of the car. With 0 toe in the front you would expect the level to line up with the rear tires. In the rear with 1/4 to 1/8 inch toe in you'd expect to see the level pointing about 1/2 to 3/4 inch pointing inward (as measured on the front tire). They all looked good except for the right front--had a ton of toe-out. I crawled under it to see if any of the alignment adjusters were off and I found the caster adjuster eccentric was on top of the "fence" that contains the eccentric. The idiots at the local garage where I (used to) get the car aligned had loosened the lock bolt so much it allowed the eccentric to slip out of its fenced in box.
I loosened the lock bolt, turned the adjuster until it moved back in its "fence," tightened the lock bolt a little then set the caster adjuster back to it's witness mark. After that adjustment I still had some toe out so I ended up needing two full turns of the tie-rod to get it aligned with the rear wheels. I just took the car for another test around the neighborhood and I got lucky, the steering wheel was centered.
Just finished buffing out the wax by hand, it's too freakin' hot that kind of activity.
My steering wheel was cocked off center when I test drove the car yesterday (I don't remember it being like that at the last track event) so I pulled out my 8 foot long aluminum level and used it to check the toe on all 4 wheels. I held it against the side of the tire with six feet of it extending toward the other tire on that side of the car. With 0 toe in the front you would expect the level to line up with the rear tires. In the rear with 1/4 to 1/8 inch toe in you'd expect to see the level pointing about 1/2 to 3/4 inch pointing inward (as measured on the front tire). They all looked good except for the right front--had a ton of toe-out. I crawled under it to see if any of the alignment adjusters were off and I found the caster adjuster eccentric was on top of the "fence" that contains the eccentric. The idiots at the local garage where I (used to) get the car aligned had loosened the lock bolt so much it allowed the eccentric to slip out of its fenced in box.
I loosened the lock bolt, turned the adjuster until it moved back in its "fence," tightened the lock bolt a little then set the caster adjuster back to it's witness mark. After that adjustment I still had some toe out so I ended up needing two full turns of the tie-rod to get it aligned with the rear wheels. I just took the car for another test around the neighborhood and I got lucky, the steering wheel was centered.
Just finished buffing out the wax by hand, it's too freakin' hot that kind of activity.
When I picked up my beater civic the paint had a lot of 'stains' embedded into the paint. After washing the car I could still see runs of dirt from top to bottom. Used Klasse AIO and removed all imprinted dirt and really brought the paint back. FYI, it's just a hand apply and buff application like any typical wax, no machinery needed.
09-01-2012 | 05:07 PM
#1945
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by yeaitsahonda' timestamp='1346456473' post='21980136
Rob, do you have to lower the subframe to remove the engine?
Lou, it looks like the FATT on the 14th will be my next event. I'll probably do the Seat Time the following week too.
I was asking because if it wasn't messed up during the last track day and it is now, then maybe they loosened it up during the engine R&R. Regardless as to what they did, anytime the subframe is removed it is recommended to have the car realigned. "Cradle shift" is a form of alignment adjustment on certain cars and although the S2000 has caster adjustments there is still a little play in the cradle mounting bolts.
09-01-2012 | 06:18 PM
#1946
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,104
Likes: 4
From: NoVA
Since VIR doesn't look feasable this year lets plan a large group for a summit main event. I'm good anytime more or less. But I'd prefer sooner rather than later. If I don't get cars on track enough then I lose interest in what I have.
09-01-2012 | 07:55 PM
#1947
Former Moderator
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,633
Likes: 26
From: West Virginia
Originally Posted by robrob' timestamp='1346461389' post='21980267
[quote name='yeaitsahonda' timestamp='1346456473' post='21980136']Rob, do you have to lower the subframe to remove the engine?
Yea, that's a good point. They did lower the engine on the subframe out the bottom of the car. I did a 4 wheel alignment using the string method today but I haven't test driven it yet.
09-02-2012 | 09:01 AM
#1948
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 0
Finally got my for sale thread up.
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/976...rmarket-parts/
In terms of track parts:
I have both driver and passenger Taitec seat rails for sale. $200 each. NOT easy to find anymore and the best quality mounts available, with the lowest seat mounting position.
BNIB recaro side mounts
Very nice fire Brey Krause extinguisher mount that bolts to drivers seat front mounting holes.
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/976...rmarket-parts/
In terms of track parts:
I have both driver and passenger Taitec seat rails for sale. $200 each. NOT easy to find anymore and the best quality mounts available, with the lowest seat mounting position.
BNIB recaro side mounts
Very nice fire Brey Krause extinguisher mount that bolts to drivers seat front mounting holes.
