awesome Rob! My passenger mount was completely separated after shenandoah event this year. The funny thing is that I think my passenger mount was bad for at least a year prior I kinda thought that is was normal, the engine wasnt moving too much

 

Hmm. I have never checked mine. Will add to the todo list. Can you tell if they are torn without unbolting the engine?

 

Mine were torn and the only way I could tell was to remove them. Well that and when they popped they made the supercharger sit lower and hit the crossbeam.

 

On our lemons car we made solid engine mounts by cutting about 10 sections of a plastic cutting board out with a 4 inch hole saw. We then drilled through the middle of the stack of plastic disks and ran a bolt through. Zero flex and has lasted 2 races so far. Think I should take this approach with the S?

The vibrations transmitted to the driver are pretty intense btw.

 

I can't remember where I sourced my 75 hardness poly mounts but they came with the transmission mount which was a surprise. I test drove the car today and the driveline is rock solid as is the shifter. I'm hoping that will lead to better throttle steer control. I'm not going to make the open practice tomorrow, I still need to wax the car, install a roll bar mounted rearview mirror (the windshield guy installed the wrong mount) and adjust the front toe. I think the new Champion aluminum radiator is working a lot better than stock because I had to idle it for a very long time before the fan kicked on.

 

great to hear!

 

I spent about 2 hours of agony this morning removing rubber marks from the paint and putting a fresh coat of wax on the car. Now I remember why I only do this once a year.

My steering wheel was cocked off center when I test drove the car yesterday (I don't remember it being like that at the last track event) so I pulled out my 8 foot long aluminum level and used it to check the toe on all 4 wheels. I held it against the side of the tire with six feet of it extending toward the other tire on that side of the car. With 0 toe in the front you would expect the level to line up with the rear tires. In the rear with 1/4 to 1/8 inch toe in you'd expect to see the level pointing about 1/2 to 3/4 inch pointing inward (as measured on the front tire). They all looked good except for the right front--had a ton of toe-out. I crawled under it to see if any of the alignment adjusters were off and I found the caster adjuster eccentric was on top of the "fence" that contains the eccentric. The idiots at the local garage where I (used to) get the car aligned had loosened the lock bolt so much it allowed the eccentric to slip out of its fenced in box.

I loosened the lock bolt, turned the adjuster until it moved back in its "fence," tightened the lock bolt a little then set the caster adjuster back to it's witness mark. After that adjustment I still had some toe out so I ended up needing two full turns of the tie-rod to get it aligned with the rear wheels. I just took the car for another test around the neighborhood and I got lucky, the steering wheel was centered.

Just finished buffing out the wax by hand, it's too freakin' hot that kind of activity.

 

Rob, do you have to lower the subframe to remove the engine?

 

Rob - let me know when you will be at the track. I miss the SW beast.

 

That's the normal way and that's how Ben in Lisbon, MD did it.

Lou, it looks like the FATT on the 14th will be my next event. I'll probably do the Seat Time the following week too.