Also, don't try to get a close look at the opening when pulling the cap off. You may get a face full of hot coolant. Or so I've heard...
[/quote]
That sounds a lot like looking into the barrel of a gun to see if its loaded.
[/quote]

 

@ more than $200 per full set (fron + rear) you could get there in no time with a group buy in the Mid-A. $2,500 sounds like a lot but it might not be too hard. Actually, I need a full set.

 

Clarkster,

The Canton 2 quart Accusump is what they recommend for 4 cylinder engines. It's 12 inches long by 4 1/4.
Here's the link: https://www.cantonra...tion&key=24-026


We would also need a mounting bracket, electric or manual valve, T-fitting, check valve and hoses for the install. If you have an oil cooler you'd simply put the T-fitting in the cooler's return line.

 

Thanks Ron

Sorry, I really need to clear that out..I used to get a PM for every message posted in a topic I am subscribed to..needless to say that filled things up quick. I can get you stainless steel brake lines...StopTech, Goodridge, or Russell. NoDelta ordered the Stoptech lines Thursday and got them yesterday. As far as the clutch line, the only manufacturers that I have found that make them is Techna-Fit, Science of Speed, Challenge, and a couple JDM ones...Spoon and ASM. Which one did you try and get?

David, what pad compound do you want? These are the choices that I see:

• 1521
• AX6
• XP8
• XP10
• XP12
• XP16
• XP20
• RP2

Yep, I can. Which ones were you looking at?

Good point Pedro. It does seem as though they are the popular pad for the S2000, and looks like a few people could use new pads. I could even keep a set for myself for when my HP+ run out Everybody likes the XP10 up front- Rob did you say you prefer the AX6 compound for the rear caliper over the XP8?

Rob, as always, you have good diagrams so I can have a visual of an install. Are you running an Accusump now, or are you looking to purchase one? It seems that having this to regulate oil pressure and an oil cooler for oil temperature it would definitely prolong the longevity of the engine. As far as a mounting bracket, where would you suggest mounting the Accusump, and do you know if it is supposed to be installed horizontially or vertically?

 

I currently run the Carbotech Endurance RP2 up front but they are eating my expensive RacingBrake.com rotors. I'm going to go back to XP10s up front and Cobalt XR3s in the rear. I plan to try XR2s up front when I wear out my current rotor rings.

I'm considering adding an Accusump. It can be mounted in any direction. If I get one I plan to mount it on the cross member behind the radiator.

 

Kevin, I need the RP2.

 

Finally got to burp the car today, followed Billman's way and did the firewall also for a good measure. Thanks to Jim and Jason for the warning. I thought the rubber cap is just covering for the bleeder valve but alas it was not! Sprayed coolant all over the engine bay exept my face.

Thanks to Nassir also for the bumper tab tip. I removed the bulky 10mm bolt that was rubbing on top of the tire and replaced it with zipties. I did the duke of hazard test in this particular road and no tire rub.

Test drove the car tonite, so far the highest temps I saw was 204 but the SPAL fan kicked-in and down she goes. Temps maintained around 196-200 with AC on and 184-196 with AC off. Tomorrow will be the real test when I drive the car to work to a Friday madness commute.

 

Car temps did very good again today, the same temps numbers as last nite.

Ordered the SS brake lines to Kevin (Clarkster) today. Tires are next.

 

Did the Oil Cooler last week








Steel Braided Wilwood lines in last night, Lots of Bleeding next. May try a ghetto ABS trick to open the ABS valves,

 

^^Nice, George! Back to Corvette, huh. My wife is always eying on one of these.

BTW can you share about the ghetto ABS trick?