2011 Track Junkie Thread
11-21-2011, 08:33 PM
#2481
Registered User
Rob, my truck is for sale (below Edmunds or KBB easily) and can tow 10,500 lbs. Haven't been driving it much since I got the BMW.
As for trailer size, if getting aluminum, you may want to go as big as you can. Resale is pretty decent on those. I'm sure you've already done it, but define your needs. You're super organized so you'll have your trailer better optimized. Do you want a sleeping area?
Excited for your possible purchase!
As for trailer size, if getting aluminum, you may want to go as big as you can. Resale is pretty decent on those. I'm sure you've already done it, but define your needs. You're super organized so you'll have your trailer better optimized. Do you want a sleeping area?
Excited for your possible purchase!
11-22-2011, 04:11 AM
#2482
Originally Posted by clarkster009' timestamp='1321919512' post='21175724
Hey guys, I have a question, which may seem stupid. If you have a big brake kit, the entire rotor assembly is often several mm thicker/taller overall, meaning the height is greater. For instance, from what I understand, the height of the BBK rotor for the Wilwood kit is ~54mm (28mm thick rotor, with a hat offset of ~30mm and a thickness of ~6mm = 54mm).
From what I understand, the height of the stock rotor is about 40mm (25mm thick and ~15mm for the "hat" part). If the height on the Wilwood rotor is around 14mm greater, how does one properly torque their wheels? Isn't this in essence the same as having a ~15mm wheel spacer on a stock rotor? If anyone could clear that up, that would be great.
From what I understand, the height of the stock rotor is about 40mm (25mm thick and ~15mm for the "hat" part). If the height on the Wilwood rotor is around 14mm greater, how does one properly torque their wheels? Isn't this in essence the same as having a ~15mm wheel spacer on a stock rotor? If anyone could clear that up, that would be great.
But yeah, the metal thickness of the rotor in the hat area is usually close to OEM, to the point that you shouldn't be worried about adding spacers or extended wheel studs...
Usually the main concern is if the caliper gonna clear the wheel or not.....
11-22-2011, 05:21 AM
#2484
Registered User
I believe Trailex need to be considered -->
11-22-2011, 07:30 AM
#2485
Anyone looking to run on good street tires for the track I'm selling my 17x9 +45 rpf1s with 255 RS3s. Tires probably have 70-75% tread left. Wheels in good shape.
Or if you need a seat my Recaro Pole Position is up for grabs as well.
Or if you need a seat my Recaro Pole Position is up for grabs as well.
11-22-2011, 09:12 AM
#2486
Registered User
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Yes, that is pretty much what I would say....
"Some would say that we class all of the cars, and then we add at least two asterisks more for S2000's and 370z's...... "
But, the fact is that we have spent probably more than a thousand hours over the past 7 years researching and classing cars. Once the database was fairly well built, we were able to start comparing the newer cars being classed to the ones already classed to help ensure fair classing. As well, we will make competition adjustments on an annual basis if necessary.
The whole system revolves around:
The following factors will be taken into account in classing the car: wt./ (max) hp ratio, total weight,
high torque in the usable rpm range, body style, engine location, drivetrain type, advanced
technology/engineering in OEM suspension, brakes, drivetrain, and aerodynamics.
If that looks familiar, it should be because it is directly from the Rules C.1 (Engine Mods)
BTW, the ZR1 is not the ZR-1 as stated in another thread. I thought it was obvious that it was an SUR car since the C6 Z06 was.
_________________
Greg Greenbaum
National TT, PT, & ST Director
Nat. Medical Director
greg@nasa-tt.com
"Some would say that we class all of the cars, and then we add at least two asterisks more for S2000's and 370z's...... "
But, the fact is that we have spent probably more than a thousand hours over the past 7 years researching and classing cars. Once the database was fairly well built, we were able to start comparing the newer cars being classed to the ones already classed to help ensure fair classing. As well, we will make competition adjustments on an annual basis if necessary.
The whole system revolves around:
The following factors will be taken into account in classing the car: wt./ (max) hp ratio, total weight,
high torque in the usable rpm range, body style, engine location, drivetrain type, advanced
technology/engineering in OEM suspension, brakes, drivetrain, and aerodynamics.
If that looks familiar, it should be because it is directly from the Rules C.1 (Engine Mods)
BTW, the ZR1 is not the ZR-1 as stated in another thread. I thought it was obvious that it was an SUR car since the C6 Z06 was.
_________________
Greg Greenbaum
National TT, PT, & ST Director
Nat. Medical Director
greg@nasa-tt.com
11-22-2011, 12:41 PM
#2488
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by dc_s2k' timestamp='1321985546' post='21177971
Yes, that is pretty much what I would say....
The whole system revolves around:
The following factors will be taken into account in classing the car:
high torque in the usable rpm range
The whole system revolves around:
The following factors will be taken into account in classing the car:
high torque in the usable rpm range
Based on that variable, the S2000 should be in TTD.
11-22-2011, 01:24 PM
#2489
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by leadfootgirl' timestamp='[url="tel:1321935663"
1321935663[/url]' post='21176377]
[quote name='Budman05' timestamp='1321931523' post='21176216']
CONGRATS to Jon!
We will miss him here.
[/left][/size][/font]
[quote name='Budman05' timestamp='1321931523' post='21176216']
CONGRATS to Jon!
We will miss him here.[/left][/size][/font][/quote]
Yes,I know, but he will be one busy guy.
11-23-2011, 03:13 PM
#2490
Former Moderator
Rob, my truck is for sale (below Edmunds or KBB easily) and can tow 10,500 lbs. Haven't been driving it much since I got the BMW.
Thanks Skip, but I've decided to go with a new F250 diesel. I'll probably pick one up on Friday in Frederick, MD.
As for trailer size, if getting aluminum, you may want to go as big as you can. Resale is pretty decent on those. I'm sure you've already done it, but define your needs. You're super organized so you'll have your trailer better optimized. Do you want a sleeping area?
I'll probably go with a 24 foot aluminum if I order one new, but would consider 20-28' used at a good price. I do want enough floor space to lay out a mattress. I'm considering a gooseneck with a sleeping area, but I'm concerned the resale demand for a gooseneck trailer won't be as strong as a standard hitch trailer. What's your thoughts on this?
Jon, congratulations on taking the reigns in Florida. They're busy down there year around on all those sweet tracks.