Hey guys! I've been looking for a newish s2k for months, finally picked up a 2006 ap2 sebring silver for 24k, with 87k miles on it and a few chips here and there. Everything is great about the car, but just the audio quality isn't that great for me coming from a Acura RDX, so I plan on replacing the factory speakers. Previous owner already swapped for a kenwood head unit but the volume and mode control on the left side panel doesn't work without the modifry kit, but as they're currently out of business, are there any advices on what to do about them? I really want to get them to use as reaching down while driving isn't that safe, plus I have basic electric engineering skills if needed. I want to work on my car but not cause chaos, but sadly being introverted I don't know anyone around me that can help me with this, and I really would appreciate help and advices. To sum up, I am looking to:
- install new head unit compatible with left panel
- install new speakers
- install rear view mirror with backup camera like in this post
- fix a tear on soft top that previous owner tried to glue up leaving ugly yellowish residue
- replace elastic strap (already bought on amazon)

should I go to an auto shop for these as a first timer? I don't want to pay for unnecessary stuff or get scammed into buying something not worth it, so I really appreciate help and advices from you guys. I'm around the Boston area so if you know any place that's good I'll go take a look and see what they offer! Thanks for your responses!

Here are some pics i took of my beauty:

 

I'd personally skip your proposed fluffy "mods" for the time being and concentrate on maintenance. A complete change of fluids is recommended to set a base line. This includes the differential (when's the last time you had a car that needed a differential oil change?), hydraulics, and anti-freeze. I'll leave the audio recommendations to those who actually turn on the radio in this car. And only after the car is up to maintenance standards. Get an engine oil analysis to see what's wearing.

Roof straps are easy and well documented here. The discontinued Modifry straps come back from time to time. But almost nothing makes the car look more hooptie than a torn roof. If you intend to keep this car start saving.

This going to be a year-round daily driver?

-- Chuck

 

Hey Chuck, thanks for the advice! Yes it's going to be my daily driver (I put no more than 5k miles a year on cars though) and I'm planning to do a full round maintenance on it sometime. Would you think it's better to start saving for a new top than getting it fixed? How much would it cost?

 

Just something to think about and make a priority list. Patching the roof didn't satisfy me. It looked fine, it didn't leak, and I knew it was just a patch job that could be seen a couple of feet away. It just looked tacky, as if I didn't care. According to my wife I'm a finalist for the messiest person in Virginia -- but not as far as the S2000 is concerned. Budget $1,500+ for a new roof. Roof is about $1000 and installation by someone who knows how to install in on the S2000 is another $500. Done wrong and the trunk will flood every time you wash the car or get stuck out in the rain. I had mine done 4 years ago in a "group install" where 4 or 5 of us had them done on a Saturday. Watching @2poor2mod work was actually a bit intimidating. Change drill bits in the cordless drill? Nope, a drill and bit for every size. No wasted time or motion. He came down to DC from some place in New Jersey. I drove up from Richmond.

These cars are approaching the state where repair parts have dried up. Engine maintenance is paramount 'cuz there ain't any more of them. Guys are resorting to K24 engines which can work wonderfully but it's not the same as an OEM car. There are better cars to play with supercharged. For example they made Miatas and BRZs by the millions and are still making them.

-- Chuck

 

I see what you mean. I just got the oil changed on my car and will probably do an oil analysis like you said after a month or so... I'm also new to driving a manual but after a few days of messing around I think I learned how to shift smoothly between gears and rev-matching, hopefully I didn't do much damage to the engine during that period. Will patch my roof for the moment and look for "group installs" like you said! Great advices, thanks again!

 

Wait until you get into discussions on "what's the best [oil] [tires] [etc] for my car."

Recommend continuing your current driving progress with the car -- this ain't a FWD Civic. Just drive and enjoy it. Years ago I asked "what's the best shift point" for the car? and was told 4300rpm. This was, of course, sending the newbie out for a left-hand wrench. Except it wasn't. Car really makes little power until VTEC kicks in at 6000rpm so ya gotta rev it. Leave Stability Assist alone unless and until you're comfortable with accidentally sliding corners and roundabouts. Rear wheel drive can still swap ends quickly on wet roads but the late cars like our '06s have most of that dialed out with Stability Assist.

-- Chuck

 

Once you settle down in the maintenance, you will want a new HU as you said. The good news is that Modifry is still somewhat in business at 2 different sites. Not everything is available but the easy to install top straps are available as of today and a number of HU DCI control wiring harness are also available. Some of the stuff he had for installing seat back/roll bar speakers are not available but the links are there so you can see how to DIY.
You may want to check out Crutchfield and see what fits with the available wiring kits from Modifry. I got one for my Sony HU that also cranks out 45 watts so I did not need a separate amp. The stock speakers sounded good enough for me with extra power from the Sony so I wound up not changing them on my 2009. (Plus I added sound deadening material to the doors which really made an improvement) The DCI from Modifry made all the controls work on the dash. So easy.
Some examples below. Bon Chance!

https://modifry.com/index.php?route=...&product_id=86

https://modifry.shop/products/sony-p...dapter-harness

 

In the Northeast, a few of the guys do soft top installs. You buy a Robbins top and they'll install it. Used to be about $500. Go on your regional boards, search or ask.

Otherwise, don't do it! Me thinks you don't need radio in a roadster anyway. And why do you need a back up camera on this little car? Use your mirrors or turn around! It's not an Escalade! Alternatively, adopt the first rule of Italian driving:


In a series of - I guess you'd call them trades, but some money did pass hands - I gave up my mostly stock 2004 in exchange for a trackable 2006 - roll bar, CR suspension, factory hardtop. Consensus is that we prefer the 2004 over the 2006. I toy with the idea of taking the 2006 back to stock.

Also in terms of maintenance, with the 2006 I believe you want to do a valve adjustment every 15,000 miles and check for crank walk and worn thrust washers. The clutch bypass (so you can start in neutral without depressing the clutch) might be the most important mod you can make in terms of engine longevity.

Good luck with the car. Have fun!

 

Since I am new to owning the S2000 I will need to read up on this issue of engine damage/thrust washer damage from depressing the clutch when starting. I am not sure why this is an issue with this car but not with any other manual car I have ever owned before. I am coming from decades of owning an doing extensive mechanical work on 90s BMWs, Various Subarus, Honda Accords, Civics, CRX, and VWs etc. Never even heard of this being an issue with any of them. But I have seen it mentioned multiple times on these forums and elsewhere so it is obviously a real issue with the S2K.

So I guess it is time to do some reading on my part. Always fun learning new things about a new car anyway.

 

I went over all your posts again and at 87K miles on an 2006 DBW car, you need to check the valves. 06+ cars have the valves going tight leading to burnt exhaust valves. If your car has never had them looked at, you are right at that point of something going south if the valves are tight. Mine were, 2009, at 45K miles so I got them in time. Do not wait on this one. Easy to check DIY, lots of threads and stickies on this site how to do it. Get some "bent" feelers and let the car sit overnight or longer to be absolutely cold. May want to order another valve cover gasket and maybe some spark plug tube seals just in case.

Once this is done, you do not have to keep checking every 15K miles. I re-checked mine 30K miles later and they were unchanged. I also do not think you need to worry about crank walk and thrust washers by performing a clutch bypass. You would be amazed at the 100,000, 200,000, and 300,000 miles some folks are getting on stock vehicles. These cars are great especially with OEM parts. Be careful not to screw up shifting and over speed the engine. Also do not skip gears to keep the synchros happy. Just row along.

Also look up the rear axle tightening thread on this site. You may extend the life of your rear wheel bearing and cups. Do you hear any clicking noises at slow turning speeds?