jzz30

i dont see how you can replace the clutch if you dont take the S/C off because you have less then a one finger gap between the snail and the frame rail. and the subframe/ motor needs to come down a good 4 inches at least, so that you can access the top bolts. also mackey said you can get away with taking the alternator off but that needs to come off anyway to get to the starter bolt. and yes i recomend doing the clutch before the S/C if you do it after its an extra 2.5 hours more labor time.

jzz30

oh and my customers are always satisfied after im done

donger274

how much for a clutch jop on a 98 prelude. my friends clutch died out and i was gonna do it for a few hundred bucks but i realised i dont have my tools or place to do it

maybe i can pay for shop time?

ive never done anything transmission wise but im pretty familiar with a honda in general especially H22. cutting interior on a ek so the tranny would fit lol

kent-k

vfarkas

Yeah I know I should have put the clutch in before I installed the s/c but I just procrastinated. When I put the s/c in, I wanted to put the clutch in at the same time but unfortunately there were problems with the s/c install so it couldn't go in. Kent, I got the clutch package that hardtopguy had, but idk if they still have the package deal. It consisted of an ACT heavy duty pressure plate, Comptech lightened flywheel, OEM throwout bearing, and OEM friction disk. Don't procrastinate! Procrastination is like masterbation. It feels good at first, then you realize you are just screwing yourself.

kent-k

you said the word "masterbation" in the "happy ending" thread

my motor makes measly HP compared to you blown guys, i don't need a super-clutch