mice

We were able to start on time at 10:30 am with the first two vehicles being RSX's. There were a total of 5 scheduled cars, but we ended up with 6. The day went by fast. It took about 35 to 45 minuets per car. The longest was the set up for the first car which was about 1 hour. Everyone went for the Air/Fuel mixture readings also. We finished running all the cars by 2:00 pm. The RSX was the Dyno champion for the first half of the session. Until King Mugen showed up and took highest HP for the day with a 204 HP.

Here's the results:
Puugee 2002 RSX 203 HP
Brain 2003 RSX (auto) 127 HP
Mice 2002 S2000 188 HP
Mice 2002 S2000 194 HP with Mugen ECU (Thank you Steve for letting me
borrow it. No you can't have my Amuse Exhaust)
McCurry 2001 S2000 204 HP
Hahnn002 2000 S2000 198 HP
808 Style 2002 S2000 183 HP

I was a little bummed at the low HP number my car made after installing the Amuse exhaust system. I have a base line of my car before putting out 192 HP.
We Steve came to the rescue and lent me his ECU to try. It made a difference.
The Mugen ECU kept pulling power all the way to 9000 rpm. My stock ECU dropped power at 8400 rpms.

Sorry, I didn't what type of mods the guys made to their respective vehicles you will have to contact them for the info.

McCurry plans to run his car on the dyno next week also.

Patrick Olsen

Man, that first RSX almost took "King o' the Dyno" away from you guys! Whazup widat?? Pretty impressive for an RSX, I'm curious what he had done.

hahnn002

I had fun seeing what my car is really sending to the pavement (198.2HP and 133.6TQ). I just wish I had done this when the car was stock so I knew what my gains were. As far as mods, that could have an effect on horsepower, I have:
1. HKS Racing Suction Intake
2. Tsudo mufflers welded to the stock exhaust pipes (silencers removed)
3. Denso IK24 spark plugs, gapped .40
I also have 19" Acari Racing wheels, they are forged aluminum and weigh the same as stock 16", but with the rotational mass pushed outward they probably cost me a point or two in the horsepower figures. My car is a year 2000 with 14,000 miles on it. I hope I make it next week to see how the rest of you do.
Nate.

Hyper-X

Sounds like you guys had a fun day. Wow, an RSX was within 1hp of Steve's car? Take into account the larger drivetrain power-loss % of RWD cars, Steve's car is making good power. Puugee's car is putting out impressive numbers though... I suspect Hondata flash upgrade (#4 reflash or KPro-tuned) could be involved. In my experience, the hp #'s that puugee's car is making is typical of a JDM Type-R DC5, with intake manifold, cam + valvetrain upgrades, exhaust and more, much more. No normal Type-S(DC5) can make those numbers NA without going with more aggressive stuff only found on the genuine Type-R's and other extra work. However the resulting efforts net a very good result.

I hope I can borrow an OBD2 scantool in time to monitor ECT's (engine coolant temps) so that every run is done to strict standards. IOW, a car that is cold will make more power than one that's been running for 30 minutes. Mice and 808style may've benefit from an ECU reset before the runs were made... but the car would need to run a while before the short-term and long-term fuel trim #'s stabilize.

BTW, don't be distressed over the hp #'s, that's normal for the level of humidity versus ambient temperatures we've been seeing with the crazy weather recently. Cars that are tuned near stochiometric (leaned out) will suffer less power-loss in high humidity compared to cars that tend to run richer.

hahnn002's car is puzzling (yet impressive) to me, the wheels should have some negative effect towards power due to the larger rotational mass, however the #'s are too close to Steve's car considering the cat-back system flow is near stock, HKS intake and an ignition spark modification (with a larger gap of .040) can't account for the hp gains alone. I'm suspecting ECT's were different allowing for more ignition timing to be used safely but without a scantool connected, I can't verify my theories. When my car was near-stock, it had a 8~15hp variation from my first run (when cold and with the highest hp #'s) versus the 8th run (which consequently recorded the lowest hp #'s).

I'll try to see if I can check-out a strap tensiometer for the 13th event so we can keep the strap tensions the same. As you may know, tighter tension = less power (more rolling resistance). Also, if you neglected to check your tire pressures, lower pressures also = less power (due to rolling resistance). I know of a few people who tried to cheat by running high psi in the tires (over 40psi) which is usually good for ~3-5hp on some cars. One more thing, on a Dynojet, things like your alignment (especially with cars with autocross-specific changes) which includes toe changes will result in lower #'s. For example on my car, the rear-end has toe-in by 1/4 inch while OEM spec is close to zero toe-in/out.

Hyper-X

For those unfamiliar with tuning the stock F20C, this is the direct result of leaning the AF ratios. While a normal OEM ECU equipped car will grow richer as it approaches 9000 rpms, the result will appear like it's running out of steam. On a car with the AF ratios leaned out safely, the power delivery results in a strong pull all the way till you smack the red.

rstark

Hey Jimmy, just curious, in your research, what intake gives the most bang for the buck, and which gives the more HP (regardless of cost), for a car setup like Mike's? I know Mike's stock airbox is a major factor in his performance gains (and losses). What would his setup benefit the most from an intake?

Patrick Olsen

Why would a RWD car have any more drivetrain loss than a FWD car? The only difference is the driveshaft which certainly doesn't take much power to spin. The S2K in particular is a pretty small car, so the driveshaft isn't that long, and the car develops little to no torque ( ) so I'm sure it's not very big in diameter. Is there something I'm missing?

Pat

Hyper-X

AEM/Injen types like you had work very well Rick. There is a characteristic bump in power at 3500rpms and the location of the air pickup is ideal for reducing intake air temps. The price range is very affordable but it requires some cutting and brings up the realistic hydrolock concerns.

My AEM V2 lacks the spike at 3500 rpms like the Injen/AEM V1 but it has a broader power range from 4500 rpms all the way to peak. However some AEM style intakes have a characteristic cricket chirp which gets annoying IMHO (I believe it's the rubber mount vibrating). Stephen heard it during autocross that sounded like the belt was slipping. While I don't have the experience like ultimate lurker (Shawn Church), he said that the V2 is in his opinion the best intake for the S2000 regardless of price on a car without heavy modding via headwork/cams and such.

I don't know what intake allows for the most HP price not being an issue, but on a dyno the Mugen does nothing but outsource cooler air since it provides no supplemental help with the car sitting still. No additional benefits from sound pulses to help carry air faster into the motor.

On AEM-style intakes, the tubes are tuned to allow for a resonant pulse which creates a pumping action which moves air very effectively within a limited rpm-range. By varying tube diameter and length, you can design an intake to provide specific gains within a certain limited-range in the rpms.

The Mugen is the best-fitting intake that has no adverse negatives except for the hood-cutting involved which really isn't bad at all. It provides gains mainly at speed due to the ram-air effect which develops pressure (albeit small) at speed.

808style

i was pretty bummed with my numbers. 183hp 125tq is pretty weak sauce. i think mike's stock numbers got me a little too optimistic. i was hoping for at least upper 180s. i seriously hope i dont have a weak factory motor. mike suggested that i change my spark plugs and get a valve adjustment done. as i'm past 30k miles, i think that's not a bad idea. jimmy did you happen to get a price quote on the valve adjustment yet? what's interesting to note is my car is bone stock, yet my power didn't seem to drop off as quickly as mike's did near redline. i figured with his mods, he'd be making power all the way till redline. i was amazed at how consistent the a/f ratios are with the mugen ecu compared to stock. my a/f ratios are all over the place whereas mike's dyno run with the mugen ecu showed a very flat a/f plot. nate's numbers were extremely impressive considering he only has an hks intake and mufflers welded on to the stock piping. maybe you got a factory freak huh nate? well now that i have a baseline (a pathetic one at that) its time for some mods. aside from the new plugs and the valve adjustment, i was thinking maybe an intake and exhaust. i'm also thinking the hondata gasket, mugen tstat and fan switch would also be a good idea. any thoughts or suggestions are welcome.

p.s. did the numbers we got include the correction factor for temp and humidity?

Hyper-X

[QUOTE=Patrick Olsen,Nov 7 2004, 12:51 AM]Why would a RWD car have any more drivetrain loss than a FWD car?