ICE Progress
#11
Originally Posted by MacGyver,May 17 2006, 08:10 AM
I didn't look at the pdf linked, but make sure the "roofing" stuff you're getting isn't giving off tar fumes...nasty stuff will kill brain cells more quickly than crack cocaine.
http://www.polyguardproducts.com/MSD..._laminates.pdf
This stuff is 100% functionally identical, at 1/4 the cost. I doubt Elemental Designs manufactures all their own damping material.
#13
#17
Originally Posted by RXDI,May 18 2006, 07:08 PM
He concludes that Peel and Seel is identical to eDead V.1, but that there is a possibility of the stuff falling off over time. I used to rub down the panels with denatured alcohol before applying deadener, just to clean off any oils. It's hard for me to believe that the deadener will fall off, the stuff is nasty sticky, but then again, I never went back and looked after a few years...
Quoted from http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/which/
"What are these things made of?
This is at the heart of the matter. There are three basic compounds used for the adhesive layer of these products:
SBR(styrene-butadiene-rubber)/Asphalt
This is the least expensive material to use. It is predominantly asphalt with a latex polymer, the SBR part, added for stability. Asphalt has one virtue. It is cheap. They make roads out of it. Unfortunately, it has several negative features that limit its usefulness for our purposes. It melts at a relatively low temperature. It becomes brittle at a relatively high temperature. Both states are bad for us. Optimum viscoelasticity requires that the material not be liquid or solid. Basic mass loading requires that the material adhere to the surface we want it to. If it melts, it will fall off vertical or inverted surfaces. If it becomes brittle, it is susceptible to detaching under normal vibrations.
The rubber compound is added to the asphalt to stabilize it. SBR/asphalt melts at a higher temperature and becomes brittle at a lower temperature than plain or "neat" asphalt. This doesn't completely solve the problem. SBR is subject to long term deterioration at temperatures that are possible in a car.
When I started this investigation, one of my primary objectives was to figure out why so many people seemed to have trouble with their mat falling off. If you search the Web for sound deadener falling off, you will see lots of cases of asphalt mats failing and no failures that I have been able to find involving butyl based mats. It just isn't possible that user error would be so neatly divided.
I looked at the specifications for products developed for roofing, which many of the products in this category began life as, I saw the problem. Roofing materials are designed to withstand temperatures of 158
#18
Thanks Chiung..
For me there were to many to choose from. So I had norrowed it down to eDead and FatMat. I found eDead for $.60 a sq ft, so that was my deciding factor.
I wish I had consulted with you first though, lol.
#20
Originally Posted by jcarlton,May 17 2006, 08:30 AM
That looks great Josh. It will help you more than you know. Do under the plastic cover that the convertable top lays down on and get a roof mat. You get a lot of noise there.
As far as bass. I am still waiting for someone to make a good sub for the trunk. A ported box mounts where the spare tire does and vents into the cabin. All the trunk subs I have heard give you the feel but distort the sound of the bass because it is in the trunk. You might as well get some bass shakers and put some 6in behind the seat.
As far as bass. I am still waiting for someone to make a good sub for the trunk. A ported box mounts where the spare tire does and vents into the cabin. All the trunk subs I have heard give you the feel but distort the sound of the bass because it is in the trunk. You might as well get some bass shakers and put some 6in behind the seat.
This problem is somewhat solved by cutting a hole in the top tray. This "ports" the sub into the cabin, and prevents some of the top tray rattle. I cut my holes directly above my amp to enable the fans to cool rapidly. My system is massively overpowered, so this may be overkill, but i'm sure it helps when really driving the system. ( I hate the sound of clipping amps.) People that have listened are impressed.
Modifry, and a few other's have mounted a Sub inthe passenger footwell. This seems to be the best solution to an incabin sub set-up. Putting a sub in the spare well would be difficult but might work as an excellent solution.
I can also attest to Chiung's knowledge. His has the only home system I have been jealous of in about 5 years.
My set-up: